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Door Drops Upon Opening


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#16 sonikk4

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Posted 01 January 2022 - 11:20 AM

Actually the bottom is good because at some time in it's life someone Waxoyled it. The stuff was about 1/8" thick. I need to rebuild the flange on the hinge end and a small section of flange on the very bottom. Too bad the Waxoyl didn't get in those areas. I don't see how it could.


The biggest issue you have there is if it’s pitted at all then it’s thinning down. If the rust is only the lower and side returns then replace those. No matter what you throw in their protection wise after the skin is on the damage is done.

I would seriously recommend changing out anything that is rusty / pitted. No point in ruining a new skin a couple of years down the line.

Fresh metal will give you greater longevity. Also once the skin is on I seam seal all of the folded edges once I have applied some epoxy primer, I seal wherever I can inside as well.

#17 Aridgerunner

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Posted 01 January 2022 - 10:05 PM

Good advise. Will do. And Happy New Year!

#18 sonikk4

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Posted 02 January 2022 - 02:52 PM

Good advise. Will do. And Happy New Year!

 

And a happy new year to you to.

 

So extra food for thought here. When the carcass is fully repaired and before the skin goes on, i normally epoxy prime than paint that part standard Black (for doors i sell on) or if i have the paint to hand ( i normally do) then colour match to the car, bearing in mind its hidden.

 

The door skins themselves. Now two manufacturers out there, Heritage and Magnum.

 

Heritage, most expensive but fit well HOWEVER the E coat they come applied with, remove it. My reasoning for this and i have now done this to every single Heritage panel i have bought where possible is that coating can and does hide spider tracks of rust. Removing (flat it back with a DA sander) will highlight if there are any.

 

Magnum, they do fit ok to be honest and these are the skins i use if i sell any restored doors. The biggest single thing with these is again to completely remove the primer they come in. Now i have not bought any for the last couple of years and i have heard the coating is better?? but the original primer coat very easily and i mean very easily rubbed off with standard paint thinners. So remove no matter what.

 

Now the thing to remember here is there are a couple of spot welds to be added to the returns One or two along the sides and a couple along the bottom, this prevents the skin from shifting once you have located it correctly on the carcass, remember to fit the carcass to the car when locating the skin, (if the carcass is bare think about adding some weights to mimic the weight of the glass, all mechanical parts etc to help locate everything as equal as possible.) one at each point where the window frame disappears in to the carcass and then seam weld right at the top both sides where the skin does not fold completely around.

 

The reason why i mention this is twofold. one the lovely primer and paint you have applied to the carcass and not the primer and paint you also apply to the internal part of the door skin before fitting. Obviously any weld will burn off the freshly applied paint.

 

So the thing to think about here is those areas. Now i normally apply weld through primer on the weld sites where possible or i remove the paint (think the spot welds / plug welds here) So once the skin is fully fitted where possible i get in with some scotchbrite to the affected areas to remove the damaged paint then re apply.

 

So sorry if i appear to be teaching you to suck eggs but just my approach to keeping the doors on my cars as rust free as possible.



#19 Aridgerunner

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Posted 02 January 2022 - 03:16 PM

Much appreciated! It's always good to get taught by someone that's "been there done that". This car is my learning experience on Mini's.

Once done we tackle the early 1970. I know the 70 is a different beast,with sliding windows and exposed hinges, but much is also the same.

Thanks again.

#20 hulsmeier

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Posted 03 January 2022 - 10:43 PM

Good advise. Will do. And Happy New Year!

Now i have not bought any for the last couple of years and i have heard the coating is better??

They now use zintec steel. It has a thin layer of zinc hence it doesn't need to be removed like the old black paint and should offer some corrosion protection.

#21 Aridgerunner

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Posted 08 January 2022 - 09:40 PM

The new skin is on order. In the meantime I have remade the front flange. The lower is next but I ran out of sheet metal long enough to make the strip.

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#22 sonikk4

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Posted 08 January 2022 - 10:29 PM

Its looking good, just make sure you have no ridges where the skin lays over the flange and also on the return side or it will not sit flat and leave a gap.






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