4 replies to this topic

[GermanMoreno]

Ok my mini is getting repainted. I want to add paint protection when I get the car back from the body shop. Im thinking ceramic coating and film protection. I have also been told that paint correction would be a good idea as it would be like a “finishing” step after the paint job.

What’s recommend to do after someone gets the car back from a fresh paint job? I assume I need to let the paint cure, but what are the options here? I’m not very savvy in this topic, the goal is to protect the paint and make it last.
Any advice and experiences appreciated!

[bluedragon]

What is your goal and planned usage?

 

A good quality professional paint job should not require correction, which is basically the process of removing small defects in the paint. There shouldn't be any swirl marks, atmospheric contamination, or scuffs in new paint, and it should be pretty smooth (i.e. at least like an OEM painted car.)

 

If it has a lot of "orange peel" or signs of poor application, then it would need to be color-sanded (flatted) then polished. The other scenario is that you want a show-quality mirror like shine - in which case you would consider applying this process even to a good quality paint job for the ultimate in gloss.

 

But, if you're considering paint protection film, then you're probably going to drive this on public roads fairly regularly (i.e. not a show car.) In which case, there's little point in going for a show quality mirror finish if you're going to just cover it with paint protection film.

 

So if the car is a regular road use car, don't bother with the correction unless the paint application was sub-par. Protect the vulnerable sections with film and use a good quality paint protectant, be it wax or ceramics.

 

After a few years you may want to then commission a paint correction job to remove scuffs and micro-scratches as well as contaminants. Also note that paint protection film really isn't meant to be left on the car for a decade.

 

If you decide to remove the film 10 or 15 years down the road, there are plenty of techniques to get the film off, but removing the old adhesive is another matter altogether. I did this on a 2004 Lotus Elise, which came with the film as a factory option, this year. The adhesive could not be removed by any solvent I could obtain. Celluose thinner, MEK, citrus removers, 3M adhesive remover, heat gun, steamer - nothing would make this stuff come off easily. 

 

I had to resort to a rubber decal removing wheel to get the adhesive off. So unless you plan to renew the film regularly (or the adhesive technology has improved) be warned if you leave this stuff on for a long time and then need to remove it.

 

And of course, even if the car was painted in two-pack catalyzed paint, wait as long as possible before applying any film, wax, or ceramic protectant. Wash only for at least 30 days, and ideally 90-180 days.

 

 

Dave

Edited by bluedragon, 25 December 2021 - 10:27 AM.

[GermanMoreno]

Very comprehensive! I would need to ask what type of paint they are using. As for the purpose, it will be a weekend car not show car. I use it on the highways etc. I want to just protect the paint from chips and make it last, and avoid cracking of the paint on the seams under the headlights.

What is your goal and planned usage?
 
A good quality professional paint job should not require correction, which is basically the process of removing small defects in the paint. There shouldn't be any swirl marks, atmospheric contamination, or scuffs in new paint, and it should be pretty smooth (i.e. at least like an OEM painted car.)
 
If it has a lot of "orange peel" or signs of poor application, then it would need to be color-sanded (flatted) then polished. The other scenario is that you want a show-quality mirror like shine - in which case you would consider applying this process even to a good quality paint job for the ultimate in gloss.
 
But, if you're considering paint protection film, then you're probably going to drive this on public roads fairly regularly (i.e. not a show car.) In which case, there's little point in going for a show quality mirror finish if you're going to just cover it with paint protection film.
 
So if the car is a regular road use car, don't bother with the correction unless the paint application was sub-par. Protect the vulnerable sections with film and use a good quality paint protectant, be it wax or ceramics.
 
After a few years you may want to then commission a paint correction job to remove scuffs and micro-scratches as well as contaminants. Also note that paint protection film really isn't meant to be left on the car for a decade.
 
If you decide to remove the film 10 or 15 years down the road, there are plenty of techniques to get the film off, but removing the old adhesive is another matter altogether. I did this on a 2004 Lotus Elise, which came with the film as a factory option, this year. The adhesive could not be removed by any solvent I could obtain. Celluose thinner, MEK, citrus removers, 3M adhesive remover, heat gun, steamer - nothing would make this stuff come off easily. 
 
I had to resort to a rubber decal removing wheel to get the adhesive off. So unless you plan to renew the film regularly (or the adhesive technology has improved) be warned if you leave this stuff on for a long time and then need to remove it.
 
And of course, even if the car was painted in two-pack catalyzed paint, wait as long as possible before applying any film, wax, or ceramic protectant. Wash only for at least 30 days, and ideally 90-180 days.
 
 
Dave

[sonscar]

What do you do to your modern car?if done with modern materials I should treat it the same.Steve..

[ThermalEvent]

I've done the same recently and with 2k you need to let it 'gas out' for 3 months in cold weather (Hot weather it is reduced).

The only thing you should do within the first 3 months is cut and polish, with Farecla G3 or similar. Never ever wax in this period.

Not sure about water based or cellulose though.

Cheers,

Edited by ThermalEvent, 26 December 2021 - 05:45 PM.