46 replies to this topic

[Bobbins]

If a sill only has two vents it's likely patch repairs have been made in the past, flattening out the other vents. I have this on our '86 which was evidently the pride and joy of Bodge It Bill.

[mvahora]

Alright so looking at the following panels for the rear valance and the R/H outer sill. There are so many options. Bit confused which to go for.

 

MAGNUM 

40-10-68-0 MK1/2/3 Rear Lower Valance Car To 2000 (NO FOG LAMPS)     £23

 

40-12-00-2 MK3 Saloon Outer Sill to 2000 R/H http://magnumclassic...ll-to-2000.html £25

40-12-00-4 MK3 Sills As Original To 2000 R/H http://magnumclassic...al-to-2000.html £25

40-12-01-2 MK3 Saloon Outer Sill Extra Wide To 2000 R/H http://magnumclassic...e-to-2000.html  £25

 

M-MACHINE 

11.42.00.00 Valence, Rear, Mk1-3 £57.75

14.42.00.00 Valence, Rear, Mk4 on £57.75

14.42.00.05 Valence, Rear, Repro £24

 

14.32.00.02 Sill, RH, Mk3-on, 6 Flute  £25

11.32.00.02 Sill, RH, Mk1-3, 4 Flute  £25

 

 

BMH HERITAGE GENUINE

S36 14A6940 £66.00 Rear Valance Rear Valance, Bare, 'Body Rear Lower' Mini Saloon & Clubman/1275GT, 1964-79 (may be used on earlier models, does not include holes for fog lamp munting weld nuts) £66

U16 14A9534 Sill Outer, RH Mini Saloon & Clubman/1275GT, 1971 on (features 6 flutes, may be fitted to earlier models) £55

 

 

MINISPARES

MS22 REAR LOWER VALANCE £20

 

MS63R SILL PANEL R/H OUTER MK3 SALOON NARROW NON GENUINE £20

MS30R OUTER SILL PANEL 4" NARROW MK1/2 R/H  $16

MS55R R/H OUTER SILL Mk3 ON - NON GENUINE  $24

Edited by mvahora, 24 January 2022 - 08:45 PM.

[mvahora]

Oh and I should say that M Machine also supply Magnum and Heritage as well as heir own pressed panels. Always call them ( don’t email) and speak to Doreen, a veritable font of info.

Everything you see on Minispares Minisport panel wise will be Pattern = Magnum, Genuine = Heritage. However there is also the odd panel supplied by both companies that come from M Machine.

Confusing I know but list what you want and we can point out what is what. And also what will suit your own particular needs.

Where are you located??

 

Okay so i think ill be going with the Magnum panels simply because of the price:

 

MS22 Rear valance

MS63R R/H outer sill narrow with 6 flutes

 

are these good options?

Edited by mvahora, 24 January 2022 - 09:05 PM.

[sonikk4]

 

Oh and I should say that M Machine also supply Magnum and Heritage as well as heir own pressed panels. Always call them ( don’t email) and speak to Doreen, a veritable font of info.

Everything you see on Minispares Minisport panel wise will be Pattern = Magnum, Genuine = Heritage. However there is also the odd panel supplied by both companies that come from M Machine.

Confusing I know but list what you want and we can point out what is what. And also what will suit your own particular needs.

Where are you located??

 

Okay so i think ill be going with the Magnum panels simply because of the price:

 

MS22 Rear valance

MS63R R/H outer sill narrow with 6 flutes

 

are these good options?

 

 

Hold on a mo, i would seriously recommend the M machine six flute narrow sill. Its a country mile better than the Magnum. 14.32.00.02 A cracking panel to be honest, with only minor fettling needed if you want to be really picky. Its £30 well spent.

 

The rear valance is your choice and the Magnum should fit ok.

[mvahora]

 

 

Oh and I should say that M Machine also supply Magnum and Heritage as well as heir own pressed panels. Always call them ( don’t email) and speak to Doreen, a veritable font of info.

Everything you see on Minispares Minisport panel wise will be Pattern = Magnum, Genuine = Heritage. However there is also the odd panel supplied by both companies that come from M Machine.

Confusing I know but list what you want and we can point out what is what. And also what will suit your own particular needs.

Where are you located??

 

Okay so i think ill be going with the Magnum panels simply because of the price:

 

MS22 Rear valance

MS63R R/H outer sill narrow with 6 flutes

 

are these good options?

 

 

Hold on a mo, i would seriously recommend the M machine six flute narrow sill. Its a country mile better than the Magnum. 14.32.00.02 A cracking panel to be honest, with only minor fettling needed if you want to be really picky. Its £30 well spent.

 

The rear valance is your choice and the Magnum should fit ok.

 

 

Alright ill grab the M machine narrow sill if its cheap enough on shipping. Ill be adding these panels to my existing minispares orders. I'm down here in NZ so usually order things in bulk. Ill ask minispares if they can get the sill in for me? If shipping cost is too much ill have to stick with the magnum panels as that's all that's available here down under (other than genuine panels)

[sonikk4]

 

 

 

Oh and I should say that M Machine also supply Magnum and Heritage as well as heir own pressed panels. Always call them ( don’t email) and speak to Doreen, a veritable font of info.

Everything you see on Minispares Minisport panel wise will be Pattern = Magnum, Genuine = Heritage. However there is also the odd panel supplied by both companies that come from M Machine.

Confusing I know but list what you want and we can point out what is what. And also what will suit your own particular needs.

Where are you located??

 

Okay so i think ill be going with the Magnum panels simply because of the price:

 

MS22 Rear valance

MS63R R/H outer sill narrow with 6 flutes

 

are these good options?

 

 

Hold on a mo, i would seriously recommend the M machine six flute narrow sill. Its a country mile better than the Magnum. 14.32.00.02 A cracking panel to be honest, with only minor fettling needed if you want to be really picky. Its £30 well spent.

 

The rear valance is your choice and the Magnum should fit ok.

 

 

Alright ill grab the M machine narrow sill if its cheap enough on shipping. Ill be adding these panels to my existing minispares orders. I'm down here in NZ so usually order things in bulk. Ill ask minispares if they can get the sill in for me? If shipping cost is too much ill have to stick with the magnum panels as that's all that's available here down under (other than genuine panels)

 

 

Why did i not see you were in Kiwi land!!! I see now why you are keen to keep costs down. 

 

Having used these particular sills on my own build thats why i really recommend them. From the metal thickness alone makes them worth it. But as you say its the potential shipping costs that are the issue.

 

I fitted some Magnum oversills cut down to short sills for my lads car. (he was on a budget) and they came up ok (Project Erm.) Now hindsight is a wonderful thing and at the time we never made the most of the various discounts (we were very early into our TMF adventure) and we should have used M Machine more then but although i have been working on minis for a longtime (my wife had had two, the mother in law had a couple) i had not done a lot of welding on them, just mechanical things. You live and learn.

 

My car is 80% Heritage 20% M machine from a panel point of view. ( and a bloody big bill even with discounts) 

[mvahora]

 

 

 

 

Oh and I should say that M Machine also supply Magnum and Heritage as well as heir own pressed panels. Always call them ( don’t email) and speak to Doreen, a veritable font of info.

Everything you see on Minispares Minisport panel wise will be Pattern = Magnum, Genuine = Heritage. However there is also the odd panel supplied by both companies that come from M Machine.

Confusing I know but list what you want and we can point out what is what. And also what will suit your own particular needs.

Where are you located??

 

Okay so i think ill be going with the Magnum panels simply because of the price:

 

MS22 Rear valance

MS63R R/H outer sill narrow with 6 flutes

 

are these good options?

 

 

Hold on a mo, i would seriously recommend the M machine six flute narrow sill. Its a country mile better than the Magnum. 14.32.00.02 A cracking panel to be honest, with only minor fettling needed if you want to be really picky. Its £30 well spent.

 

The rear valance is your choice and the Magnum should fit ok.

 

 

Alright ill grab the M machine narrow sill if its cheap enough on shipping. Ill be adding these panels to my existing minispares orders. I'm down here in NZ so usually order things in bulk. Ill ask minispares if they can get the sill in for me? If shipping cost is too much ill have to stick with the magnum panels as that's all that's available here down under (other than genuine panels)

 

 

Why did i not see you were in Kiwi land!!! I see now why you are keen to keep costs down. 

 

Having used these particular sills on my own build thats why i really recommend them. From the metal thickness alone makes them worth it. But as you say its the potential shipping costs that are the issue.

 

I fitted some Magnum oversills cut down to short sills for my lads car. (he was on a budget) and they came up ok (Project Erm.) Now hindsight is a wonderful thing and at the time we never made the most of the various discounts (we were very early into our TMF adventure) and we should have used M Machine more then but although i have been working on minis for a longtime (my wife had had two, the mother in law had a couple) i had not done a lot of welding on them, just mechanical things. You live and learn.

 

My car is 80% Heritage 20% M machine from a panel point of view. ( and a bloody big bill even with discounts) 

 

 

Haha yes way down under! Unfortunately mini parts can get quite pricy! 

 

best way to remove outer sill? Angle grinder - cut at the top? then peel back?

Edited by mvahora, 25 January 2022 - 01:57 AM.

[sonikk4]

I wont keep quoting as it becomes congested especially with long answers.

 

So in answer to your question, providing you can see the old spot welds i normally drill these out. A lot less noise and mess. However if you cant see them then you can knock back over the rough area with a grinder to highlight the spot weld then gently grind down on that.

 

If i have a car that has not been molested and on original sills this is the way fwd, but if you cant then its as you say use a 1mm slitting disc to carefully cut right into the radius under the door step lip but at the heelboard end stop short by approx 3/4" otherwise you will cut into the heelboard return there.

 

At the front again be careful other wise you will cut into the flitch panel. Not the end of the world with a 1mm slitting disc as this is easily welded.

 

Where the sill attaches to the inner sill you can either drill out the spot welds if you can see them (there are some around the jacking point at either side) or as i mentioned locally grind down.

 

Now something worth having is a decent metal scraper especially one where the blade forms part of the handle. Use this then to split between the layers and as a bonus this also highlights where the spot welds are.

[mvahora]

hi guys!

 

Managed to get it off. Was a bit of a pain to get the spot welds off where it meets the inner sill. Lip was easy. Used a grinder with a few other different prying tools e.g crowbar, scraper, chisel, flat head screwdriver and a hammer. It was spot welded in place. The sills seems to have had some minor repairs in the past. Inner sill seems okay. Only rusted bad around the jacking point. The drivers side floor panel seems good and someone has replaced it in the past. Its a newish panel. Can tell by the difference in metal.

 

Have found that the A panel has also rusted towards the bottom  as well as a little bit on the door frame. someone had simply bogged over the rust and repainted.

 

Bottom captive nut in the heel board is corroded slightly. Now I know why the screw in that particular trunnion hole cracked when I tried to remove it. Heel board is okay otherwise; just need to grind it clean and perhaps replace the captive nut.

 

Thoughts?

 

- the photos are in order as I went along with the removal. There was an old rotten outer sill in behind the main outer sill. I removed it. 

- the seatbelt nut picture looks like there's a crack in the inner sill. There isn't. Its just a piece of an old outer sill that was there underneath the outer sill. 

- disregard the old jack stands in the middle of the car. They're not holding anything. 

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Edited by mvahora, 26 January 2022 - 11:03 PM.

[sonikk4]

Ok, in those immortal words "thats fubared"

 

So now its more work for you and the welder. And the issue here is you are going to need the following panels.

 

Now this is all from M Machine which is not ideal for you but at least you will know what you exactly need.

 

The inner sill is toast, that has to be replaced in entireity. The jacking point as well. So lets deal with that first.

 

http://preview.m-mac...i catalogue.pdf

 

 

14.33.01.28 Sill to First Groove Assembly, Complete, RH, 6 Flute Sill £98.00 £117.60

 

11.32.06.02 Jacking Point, RH, Mk1-4 £8.80 £10.56

 

I have purposely left off the internal slinging brackets and external as they really are not needed.

 

Next is the doorstep

 

13.14.00.38 Extended Step, RH, Mk3 on £37.50 £45.00

 

Now for the A panel and flitch

 

13.21.00.18 Hinge Panel Repair, RH, Mk3 on £24.00 £28.80

 

For the life of me i cannot see an A panel on the catalogue so this is from Minispares, Heritage panel and Pattern panel

 

https://www.minispar...|Back to search

https://www.minispar...|Back to search

[mvahora]

Ok, in those immortal words "thats fubared"

 

So now its more work for you and the welder. And the issue here is you are going to need the following panels.

 

Now this is all from M Machine which is not ideal for you but at least you will know what you exactly need.

 

The inner sill is toast, that has to be replaced in entireity. The jacking point as well. So lets deal with that first.

 

http://preview.m-mac...i catalogue.pdf

 

 

14.33.01.28 Sill to First Groove Assembly, Complete, RH, 6 Flute Sill £98.00 £117.60

 

11.32.06.02 Jacking Point, RH, Mk1-4 £8.80 £10.56

 

I have purposely left off the internal slinging brackets and external as they really are not needed.

 

Next is the doorstep

 

13.14.00.38 Extended Step, RH, Mk3 on £37.50 £45.00

 

Now for the A panel and flitch

 

13.21.00.18 Hinge Panel Repair, RH, Mk3 on £24.00 £28.80

 

For the life of me i cannot see an A panel on the catalogue so this is from Minispares, Heritage panel and Pattern panel

 

https://www.minispar...|Back to search

https://www.minispar...|Back to search

 

Thanks for that! my plan moving forward is to replace the inner + outer sills, door step, A panel and hinge panel on R/h side of car. I will be taking off the other side outer sill in the next few days to check condition.

 

I had a look inside the cross member from the rusty holes in the inner sill on the R/h side of the car and it looks in great condition, however,  I can see some rust forming where the crossmember joins to the floor.

 

I managed to dig out some photos of the car before it was rust treated (about 14 years ago) and I can see that the front floor pans were in a poor state. If you can take a look and let me know what you think of the overall condition of the car?

 

Would it be advisable to cut out the front floor pans including part of the floor pan that is under the cross member so that I can tidy up the cross member? Then weld on new front floor pans at the same time. Does the front floor pan cover the cross member or is it the rear floor pan that covers it? 

 

 Also what would be the best sequence to replace the panels? Do I need to strengthen the frame if I cut out anything and can it all be done without a jig / rotating setup?

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[sonikk4]

I have seen far worse to be honest, but my concern is the surface rust that has been covered over by the back paint / stone chip.

If that was my car I would strip that all off and deal with it then go from there.

The drivers floor pan is toast so that needs to be replaced. Not the end of the world. The floor crossmember needs to come out anyway to deal with the inner sill to first flute. The crossmember is not covered by either of the floor pans. It sits on top. Again not a biggy but you may be surprised what you find hiding inside it. It’s spot welded and easy to remove.

[mvahora]

I have seen far worse to be honest, but my concern is the surface rust that has been covered over by the back paint / stone chip.

If that was my car I would strip that all off and deal with it then go from there.

The drivers floor pan is toast so that needs to be replaced. Not the end of the world. The floor crossmember needs to come out anyway to deal with the inner sill to first flute. The crossmember is not covered by either of the floor pans. It sits on top. Again not a biggy but you may be surprised what you find hiding inside it. It’s spot welded and easy to remove.

 

hi mate, 

 

rust converter was used on all the surface rust prior to the stone chip being put on. 

 

So as per your suggestion if i get the 14.33.01.28 Sill to First Groove Assembly; which front floor panels should I then purchase? will the 11.34.14.58 Flat Floor, Front Quarter be okay? If so will I have to trim the floor panel down to remove the first grove as its already part of the sill assembly?

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Edited by mvahora, 11 February 2022 - 10:49 AM.

[sonikk4]

Now because you would be buying the inner sill to outer sill to first flute you would get away panel part number 11.34.14.18, so this is the floor panel without the inner sill section (no need as you will already have it).

 

This will cover pretty much everything on the right hand side that you will need. Now these are budget floor panels so think Magnum here and i have used the short one before for my sons car. It did fit reasonably well with some hammer and dolly work to get the flutes to match well. At least this way it will keep costs down plus with the full length panel you can capture anything else you find that side.

 

I will say your car does not need a complete floor pan ie the whole floor, i have seen far worse repaired. 

[mvahora]

Now because you would be buying the inner sill to outer sill to first flute you would get away panel part number 11.34.14.18, so this is the floor panel without the inner sill section (no need as you will already have it).

 

This will cover pretty much everything on the right hand side that you will need. Now these are budget floor panels so think Magnum here and i have used the short one before for my sons car. It did fit reasonably well with some hammer and dolly work to get the flutes to match well. At least this way it will keep costs down plus with the full length panel you can capture anything else you find that side.

 

I will say your car does not need a complete floor pan ie the whole floor, i have seen far worse repaired. 

 

bit confused. does that mean if I purchase 11.34.14.18 I would need to trim it down as ill have two first grooves. one on the sill assembly and one on the floor panel? 

 

the sections of floor from the crossmember towards the boot are okay and don't need replacement. I only need to replace the front driver and passengers floor pans hence I was thinking of using 11.34.14.58 Flat Floor, Front Quarter.

Edited by mvahora, 12 February 2022 - 01:46 AM.