13 replies to this topic

[mini-mad-mark]

I tried a search but could only find topics about removing the floor sound deadening which I'm managing OK with (albeit still quite a PITA job).

 

My question is how to remove the two pads in the rear quarters; it seems to be a slightly different material to the floor and doesn't chip off easily like the floor (plus I don't want to damage/distort the panel in doing so)

 

Is (gentle) heat the answer or would some kind of solvent soften it  - maybe something like Thinners or Acetone or maybe or maybe something less volatile like White Spirits?

 

Any way to make it easier or is it just one of those get on with it ball-ache jobs? - If it is just a ball ache then so be it but just to help not damaging the panel which I am worried about.

 

 

Cheers, Mark

[Cooperman]

I use a heat gun to do this and a sharp scraper.

[mini-mad-mark]

I use a heat gun to do this and a sharp scraper.

 

Cheers, got both these things so will give that a go......tomorrow.....maybe!!!

[stuart bowes]

thanks I was wondering how to attack that as well

[Cooperman]

When I built my 1990 Cooper road-rally car I removed all the 'black gunge' sound proofing. Then I weighed it all and it was about 25 lbs. It is heavy stuff.

[sonikk4]

Totally agree with Cooperman using heat for those particular areas, it is a swine to get off. The floor bitumen does chip off easily.

That thin stuff is also used on the roof and over time sags and contacts the roof lining. Far from ideal.

[GraemeC]

Depends what you're planning on doing, but I've previously removed them by warming the panel from the outside - softens the glue but the sound pad holds together and can be peeled off in 1(ish) piece.
Problem is you might damage the paint - fine if there's a respray on the cards.

[Verderad]

I used the scraper attached on multi tool to strip the bitumen from the bonnet. 

Spent 3 hrs with a sharp chisel, then 20 minutes with the multi tool. Brilliant!!

[mini-mad-mark]

Heat worked great - I managed to peel it off in about 4 or 5 pieces each side.

[mini-mad-mark]

So now I've got off the sound deadening,  next question(s) - Any ideas on removing:

 

-  underseal, both the factory thick/heavy stuff plus some added on afterwards - I was thinking chipping/scraping off the thick/heavy factory stuff cold and maybe a solvent (white spirit) for the later thinner additions? 

 

- excess waxoyl - I guess a solvent is the best for this (just want to remove it from areas to be painted but leaving it in the box sections) but not sure if a heavier solvent (white spirit) or more volatile one like acetone is best?

 

- contact adhesive - I actually found something online for this where it suggested heat or a volatile solvent - heat softens it but doesn't make it easy to remove, just kind of spreads it around so I guess this will be acetone to really clean it off but any actual experience gratefully accepted

 

In terms of solvents I have white spirit and acetone already but happy to get/try others if recommended.  If you google solvents/thinners you get a myriad of other substances (toluene, naphtha, cellulose thinners, and others)

 

Apologies if these have already been asked but I wasn't able to find/search anything definitive

[sonikk4]

The factory applied coating or Ziebart if it was aftermarket is an arse to remove. Having done it on my Clubby and it was applied back in 1974 I ended up using a twisted wire cup followed by standard thinners to remove the residue.

Very messy and noisy but ultimately it worked.

Now Acetone will probably be the best thing you can use for removing adhesive residue, obviously be very careful how you use it and do wear a suitable mask.

Standard thinners is readily available and will remove most things on your car but again be careful of keeping it away from good paint and again use a suitable mask.

I use this to remove the grey coating that used to come on Magnum panels.

Not even sure you can get Toluene on the open market anymore and the last time I used this was to thin down Aviation sealant to enable it to be brushed on. ( back in the mid 90,s)

Excess Waxoyl can be removed with thinners or white spirit. That should soften it up to enable it to be scraped off and then wipe off the residue.

[mini-mad-mark]

Cheers Neil, already started to chip/scrape off the thick underseal but then it started raining so I gave up - will take me at least 5-6 days I think to get it all off.

 

The waxoyl is only a small amount in the companion bins so shouldn't be too bad.

 

Just the thinner coats of later added underseal that is too thin to chip off that I am really concerned about but maybe a wire wheel/solvent combo will work

 

I'll report back with some pictures when/if I get it all off and cleaned up

[coopertaz]

only problem removing sound deadening pads on panels is that car will have tinny sound when doors shut etc. unless going for minimum weight would always leave panels fitted. removing floor bitumen good idea holds water to floor secretly rotting beneath

[mini-mad-mark]

Yes fully aware of the cons (the noise!) 

 

Hoping to end up with a sort of cafe racer style mini a bit in the style of this car:

https://www.facebook...6b-24054864e686

 

To be honest when I saw this I was tempted, as it will probably cost me more to build something similar from scratch but its just got so many things I'd want to change like MK1 lights (ok on a mk1 but not anywhere else - just my personal opinion before I get the hate !) plus no bumpers and 13 inch wheels not for me plus other things so that I would end up spending nearly as much in the end to get it to what I want (always individual opinion of course)

 

Plus the actual project is half the pleasure right? (well building it up in the end is; not sure the bit I'm on at the moment is pleasure..... )  

 

If I hate the noise I can always put some sound deadening back in