14 replies to this topic

[Trissy B]

Hello I have rear adjustable camber brackets from mini spares or possibly mini sport, about 8 years old.

One has broken and knocked the camber out. It had a single maybe M5 bolt to adjust which is pretty flimsy.

What is the best bracket out there? Or is the best just the genuine fixed one and shim it to make it correct?

[Trissy B]

https://www.minispar...assic/MS70.aspx

Is basically what I have.

[Maccmike8]

MED do some good but pricy ones.

[Compdoc]

I got these from Minisport. I don't often use Minisport in preference to Minispares, but they looked a lot more substantial than the Minispares ones

https://www.minispor...ckets-pair.html

 

[johnR]

the 'Sport ones look rather more elegant and substantial (at a price) - do they adjust toe in as well as camber like the MS70 'Spares ones?

[absx2]

The MS70 type are easy to fabricate and if one has broken in use it can be for no other reason than the radius arm shaft was not correctly tightened as the torque alone holds it in position.

 

The mini sport version clearly shows that the clamping force is the only thing holding it in position with regards to the toe and the serrations for the camber. 

 

I much prefer the ms70 type used in conjunction with a shim if necessary to correct the toe 

[Maccmike8]

Sorry its KAD not MED. https://kentautodeve...er-toe-brackets

[Compdoc]

the 'Sport ones look rather more elegant and substantial (at a price) - do they adjust toe in as well as camber like the MS70 'Spares ones?

Yes, they are advertised as, "Fully adjustable Mini negative camber & tracking rear brackets".

 

[weef]

In the early days we used the Clive Trickey method to obtain negative camber on the rear suspension. There was no such thing as adjustable brackets, but there were round files. 

The method was to "slot" the inner subframe drilling closer to the ground and the outer upwards but usually it was only the outer that needed work as the subframe flexed enough to suit.

If you are worried about the arm moving in the "slot" , once the desired angle is set, a substantial "washer" can be tacked in place to prevent any movement on the outer bracket.

No expense was incurred, just a bit of work with a file.

[Trissy B]

Thanks for all the replies! Maybe the radius arm bolt had became a bit loose but who knows. I'm not convinced friction alone and the serations will do the trick. Also please note the serations are orientated vertically so there isn't much to stop in slipping up, if you hit some massive pothole at speed for example.

My local suspension tuning guy said he wouldn't touch those with a barge pole (current ones).

I think I will keep what I have, get them in the right place and then weld then in position. Only thing is not sure it will weld very well as I think they are passivated or something.

[Gaz66]

The kad ones look to incorporate a good system for adjustment and lockability.
Just the cost is a bit steep as with all kad stuff.

[Spider]

Thanks for all the replies! Maybe the radius arm bolt had became a bit loose but who knows. I'm not convinced friction alone and the serations will do the trick. Also please note the serations are orientated vertically so there isn't much to stop in slipping up, if you hit some massive pothole at speed for example.

My local suspension tuning guy said he wouldn't touch those with a barge pole (current ones).

I think I will keep what I have, get them in the right place and then weld then in position. Only thing is not sure it will weld very well as I think they are passivated or something.

 

The KAD Type that Maccmike8 mentioned are serrated. Once the nut is locked up, it will take several tonnes force to move them. Keep in mind, it's not a single serration, but about 15 or 20 of them, horizontal. Many consider the KAD Brackets the best in the business.

[mini-mad-mark]

Haven't had my hands on these but the theory looks good - MiniSpares MS73EVO

 

http://www.minispare...px|Back to shop

[Cooperman]

In the early days we used the Clive Trickey method to obtain negative camber on the rear suspension. There was no such thing as adjustable brackets, but there were round files. 

The method was to "slot" the inner subframe drilling closer to the ground and the outer upwards but usually it was only the outer that needed work as the subframe flexed enough to suit.

If you are worried about the arm moving in the "slot" , once the desired angle is set, a substantial "washer" can be tacked in place to prevent any movement on the outer bracket.

No expense was incurred, just a bit of work with a file.

That is exactly what I have always done. The 'adjustable' ones don't look very strong to me. I have seen them break on rally cars and I have even had a standard bracket start to spilt at the seam from the top. I now weld a small triangular piece of 3 mm stel to prevent this.

[Spider]

 I have even had a standard bracket start to spilt at the seam from the top. I now weld a small triangular piece of 3 mm stel to prevent this.

 

Our Big Wheel Mokes have a small block added to these brackets to stop them splitting and also hold them square.

I'll snap off a photo later.

 

< Edit: Later

 

Edited by Spider, 05 April 2022 - 05:53 AM.