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Help With Engine Identification


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#1 1985classicmini

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Posted 13 April 2022 - 06:53 PM

Hi I bought this 1275 engine and gear box over the weekend, I would appreciate any help to get any information I can about it, the gear box casing is a spare they had, is there any different variations of casing? I will attach photos of the engine block, crank and pistons, I am aware it’s a no tappet chest pre a plus

 

is there a specific bell housing I would need or are they universal across engines? 

 

any information, fact or advice is greatly appreciated. 

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Edited by 1985classicmini, 13 April 2022 - 07:11 PM.


#2 nicklouse

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Posted 13 April 2022 - 07:06 PM

A series 1275.

 

transfer case needs to match the gearbox. Your the correct clutch parts for the clutch system you pic.

the Woks are interchangeable.



#3 imack

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Posted 13 April 2022 - 07:28 PM

Looks like a fairly late A series block fitted with A+ rods. Can't see whether the crank is A or A+. Flat top head is A series or early A+. Engine front plate looks like mini rather than Austin 1300.
Does the block have a hole in the casting directly above the centre main bearing? Can't quite tell in the photos.
I'm not very well up on rod change gearboxes but I think the DAMxxx ones are probably from A+ engines.

#4 1985classicmini

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Posted 13 April 2022 - 09:20 PM

Looks like a fairly late A series block fitted with A+ rods. Can't see whether the crank is A or A+. Flat top head is A series or early A+. Engine front plate looks like mini rather than Austin 1300.
Does the block have a hole in the casting directly above the centre main bearing? Can't quite tell in the photos.
I'm not very well up on rod change gearboxes but I think the DAMxxx ones are probably from A+ engines.

The hole your talking about above the centre main, does it go down following the bore or across following the crank ?



#5 imack

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Posted 14 April 2022 - 05:22 AM

It's a squareish casting hole just above the centre main, between cylinders 3 & 4, following the line of the crank.

#6 1985classicmini

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Posted 14 April 2022 - 08:16 AM

It's a squareish casting hole just above the centre main, between cylinders 3 & 4, following the line of the crank.

I taken some photos but i can’t see a hole in the block 



#7 1985classicmini

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Posted 14 April 2022 - 08:21 AM

See photos, thank you very much for your help it’s greatly appreciated 

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#8 nicklouse

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Posted 14 April 2022 - 09:31 AM

Looking at that crank I looks like it has the half and half bearings. One groved one plain on the big ends.

Presuming it is the first strip down.



#9 imack

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Posted 14 April 2022 - 11:04 AM

The hole would be here if it had one. Nice block, quite desirable for a high output engine not to have the hole as allegedly they can crack from it.

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#10 1985classicmini

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Posted 19 April 2022 - 07:59 PM

Can anyone help me, I’ve got a dam 6626 gear box casing and I’ve got a 1275 gt gear box internals as identified by 22g1040 stamped on the lay shaft. Can I build the gear box into this casing? Has anyone done it? Is there any adjustments needed? 

I’ll attach some pictures 

 

once again many thanks for any support and advice 

 

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#11 nicklouse

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Posted 19 April 2022 - 08:15 PM

You do have the rest of that gear box casing don’t you?



#12 1985classicmini

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Posted 19 April 2022 - 09:01 PM

 

You do have the rest of that gear box casing don’t you?

 

 I’ve got it all but the diff casing due to it being damaged, I have read its best to keep them as a pair, is this going to cause me a issue ? 



#13 nicklouse

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Posted 19 April 2022 - 09:48 PM

 

You do have the rest of that gear box casing don’t you?

I’ve got it all but the diff casing due to it being damaged, I have read irs best to keep them as a pair, is this going to cause me a issue ? 

 

Yes it could well cause you problems as both parts are part of a matched pair.  Using a diff casing from a different box normally leads to problems. The bearing bores can be offset leaving a step on the bearing surface. Also the gear shift linkage drilling can be out of alignment. There may also be issues with the crown wheel and pinion being miss aligned.

 

either spend a lot of money getting a different diff cover machined to match the box you have or find a complete box.



#14 1985classicmini

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Posted 17 May 2022 - 07:04 PM

Engine rebuild under way, below is a list of parts I have down to replace, if anyone sees anything not on the list please say as I am sure I've missed bits or there is anything i don't need to replace. in a separate post ill give a write up of where i currently am with the engine and what id like to be able to do

 

head gasket

oil relief spring with ball upgrade 

oil pump

oil switch

core plugs 

conrod bolts and nuts 

std 1275 pistons

cam liners

oil filter 

rocker shaft

valve springs

main shells 

big end shells

gaskets

temperature switch

head studs

timing cover oil seal



#15 1985classicmini

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Posted 17 May 2022 - 07:56 PM

Im hoping to build the engine into a fast road engine, the bores are good and within tolerance so i am just going to be replacing the pistons and keeping it at a std 1275. i have new cam liners on my shopping list. i looked at getting a new road cam, the only one i can see on mini spares is slot drive oil pump, the one i took out the engine was a spider driver, can i put a slot drive cam in and just buy a matching pump? i need a new rocker shaft can anyone recommend one? I've seen many people say that double springs don't add much advantage until over 6000rpm so i will just be replacing with single springs. engine big ends are within tolerance so i am replacing with standard. main shells are at 50.71 which is out of the 50.83-50.84 tolerance, I've had a look for suitable shells but have been unable to find anything so I'm looking for advice. i have a big valve 12g940 head which is stamped 12g938 near the thermostat will this work for my build ? i am also looking at a light flywheel to complete the build. 


Edited by 1985classicmini, 18 May 2022 - 05:31 AM.





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