7 replies to this topic

[shutdown98]

Hi everyone,

I recently purchased a 1973 1275 GT and I’ve been doing some maintenance. I ended up replacing the driveshafts on both sides since the pot joints were completely gone and worn out.
I first installed the passenger side and all went well, after installing the drivers side (car is left hand drive) I was unable to turn the driveshaft by hand, whereas on the passenger side I can. I replaced the diff cover seal, gasket, circlips… could this be the bronze seal inside the diff cover that is too tight on the new pot joint?

I tried pulling the pot joint off again to see if everything was in the right place, but now I can’t get it out, may the new circlips be too strong?
What are your suggestions? Is it safe to assemble everything and the driveshaft will spin once the car is dropped on the ground?

Thanks in advance!!
Any help appreciated

[Spider]

Hi and welcome to the forum, we trust you'll gain much from here.

 

It's likely that the Drive Shaft is contacting the Subframe, where it passes through the window in it or on the lower arm pin. The RH Shaft will do this as it's longer. Put a jack under the ball joint pin and lift the hub a little, see if that sorts it.

If this is what it is, then you may wish to check your rebound rubbers, these are a small approx 3/4" square shaped rubber under the top suspension arm.

[shutdown98]

Hi and welcome to the forum, we trust you'll gain much from here.
 
It's likely that the Drive Shaft is contacting the Subframe, where it passes through the window in it or on the lower arm pin. The RH Shaft will do this as it's longer. Put a jack under the ball joint pin and lift the hub a little, see if that sorts it.

If this is what it is, then you may wish to check your rebound rubbers, these are a small approx 3/4" square shaped rubber under the top suspension arm.

Thank you very much!

I believe that is not the case as the car is completely apart, this includes the upright. I don’t even have the outer CV joint in place yet. I have also put a towel in between the lower pin and the driveshaft so that they don’t rub until I assemble everything.
When I turn the RH shaft the LH also doesn’t move, whereas as before would turn in the opposite direction.

[nicklouse]

I seem to recall that some of the new pot joints had oversize shafts that could cause issues when fitted if they could actually be fitted.

[shutdown98]

I seem to recall that some of the new pot joints had oversize shafts that could cause issues when fitted if they could actually be fitted.

I immediately thought about that, but it got in quite easily, it took a couple of hits, but not a lot of force. I just don’t know if I really need to take it off (struggling with new c clips) or risk it and see if it will turn with the engine.

[mad4classics]

I seem to recall that some of the new pot joints had oversize shafts that could cause issues when fitted if they could actually be fitted.

I immediately thought about that, but it got in quite easily, it took a couple of hits, but not a lot of force. I just don’t know if I really need to take it off (struggling with new c clips) or risk it and see if it will turn with the engine.

I wouldn't run in the hope it will be OK; needs investigating.

It should rotate freely.

I've had a pot joint where the outer circumference was not concentric with the internal spline - so fits the spline and fits the cover but jammed up when everything put together.

Edited by mad4classics, 15 April 2022 - 02:36 PM.

[Spider]

Sorry this has not been a simple solution.

 

 

Hi and welcome to the forum, we trust you'll gain much from here.
 
It's likely that the Drive Shaft is contacting the Subframe, where it passes through the window in it or on the lower arm pin. The RH Shaft will do this as it's longer. Put a jack under the ball joint pin and lift the hub a little, see if that sorts it.

If this is what it is, then you may wish to check your rebound rubbers, these are a small approx 3/4" square shaped rubber under the top suspension arm.

Thank you very much!

I believe that is not the case as the car is completely apart, this includes the upright. I don’t even have the outer CV joint in place yet. I have also put a towel in between the lower pin and the driveshaft so that they don’t rub until I assemble everything.
When I turn the RH shaft the LH also doesn’t move, whereas as before would turn in the opposite direction.

 

 

In this case, then it's likely as Nick suggests;-

 

I seem to recall that some of the new pot joints had oversize shafts that could cause issues when fitted if they could actually be fitted.

 

And as mad4classics also suggests, you'd want to free it up before driving it.
 

[shutdown98]

UPDATE: Good news! Following your suggestions I was able to remove the pot joint using a pry bar, and with help of the U shape tool and a bit more force. After some investigation, turns out that bronze bush on the diff cover needed to be reamed just a tiny bit, as it was too tight on the new pot joint. Once that was done, and everything reassembled, driveshaft properly turning now!

Thank you all for the suggestions