16 replies to this topic

[looneytunes]

Hello,

 

  I am looking to replace my rear subframe on my 97 mini. Without having looked underneath yet, is it possible to remove it without removing the front trunnions? If the pins are removed would the subframe drop between the trunnions?

 

Thanks

[nicklouse]

In theory yes but you are just making it very hard for yourself.

 

if you are worried about bolts snapping etc then they need replacing anyway.

[Tupers]

You won’t be able to get the trunnion pins out as the flat face sits behind the edge of the rear quarter.

Edited by Tupers, 05 May 2022 - 06:02 PM.

[nicklouse]

You won’t be able to get the trunnion pins out as the flat face sits behind the edge of the rear quarter.

The body quarter? I had not thought about that bit.

[Cooperman]

If the trunnion bolt(s) snap off due to corrosion, come back on here and we'll tell you how to do the necessary repair to the trapped nuts inside the sills.

[looneytunes]

OK Thanks for the advice. Lets hope the trunnion bolts play ball.

[Omnomsan]

The rear subframe is the only part of mine I haven't touched for fear of shearing the bolts as well. It's my only car (maybe not a wise decision) so I'm hesitant to dig into it and attempt a removal in case I get stranded at the community garage I share. I hope you don't have issues, but if you do, I'll be watching this thread closely so I have a backup plan!

[mbolt998]

If the trunnion bolt(s) snap off due to corrosion, come back on here and we'll tell you how to do the necessary repair to the trapped nuts inside the sills.

I would also check the captive nuts on the subframe itself. Mine were tacked on extremely weakly and one broke. Much easier to fix that pre-emptively before the whole thing goes on the car.

[Cooperman]

 

If the trunnion bolt(s) snap off due to corrosion, come back on here and we'll tell you how to do the necessary repair to the trapped nuts inside the sills.

I would also check the captive nuts on the subframe itself. Mine were tacked on extremely weakly and one broke. Much easier to fix that pre-emptively before the whole thing goes on the car.

 

Quite right, but if the sub-frame is being renewed, it doesn't matter if the bolts shear of the nuts become 'untrapped'.

[mbolt998]

 

 

If the trunnion bolt(s) snap off due to corrosion, come back on here and we'll tell you how to do the necessary repair to the trapped nuts inside the sills.

I would also check the captive nuts on the subframe itself. Mine were tacked on extremely weakly and one broke. Much easier to fix that pre-emptively before the whole thing goes on the car.

 

Quite right, but if the sub-frame is being renewed, it doesn't matter if the bolts shear of the nuts become 'untrapped'.

 

I meant on the new one!

[looneytunes]

  Had look today and found a bolt head in front of the rear subframe front trunnion. Took it out and have access to the sill. Then I bent the WD40 spout with boiled water and squirted wd40 up the bolt hole toward the inner captive nuts, I hope.  I think the bolt is for fitting radius arm shrouds? I will do this for a few days before I attempt to loosen the trunnion bolts.

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[nicklouse]

WD40 is as useful as water. Get some penetrating fluid like PlusGas.

[looneytunes]

OK, done, had some in the garage. 

[looneytunes]

To put a tap through the subframe captive nuts are they all metric?

[sonikk4]

To put a tap through the subframe captive nuts are they all metric?

 

No they should not be metric unless of course someone has repaired something in the dim and distant past. They should be 5/16 unf.