12 replies to this topic

[foreverfixin]

As title, I don’t have a spanner that’ll fit the crankshaft pulley nut and can’t get my tower bolt socket on as the engine mounting bracket is in the way. Ended up supporting the gearbox and removing it. I don’t want to do that again after 500 miles after re-torquing the head when the radiator, etc. is fitted. So, what’s the best method? Thanks in advance.

[weef]

Spark plugs out, select top gear, push car back and forth to position engine, or instead of pushing the car back and forth jack up one front wheel and turn it to rotate the engine.

[Gilles1000]

I managed to do it by pushing a bit by hand on the alternator belt to "tighten" it.

Then with the right socket turn the alternator, which will, if the belt is enough tightened, turn the engine.

[Aly-g]

weef   has the right idea , unless of course you've got a limited slip diff, i just use a big adjustable spanner with the front grill removed its fairly easy, and don't forget the rule of nine when doing tappets, it means you only have to turn the engine over half as much to adjust all the valve clearances

 

Allan

Edited by Aly-g, 06 May 2022 - 04:23 PM.

[Tones61]

Jack up one front wheel,
select 4th gear,
Remove spark plugs for easier turning,
Turn raised wheel to select rockers etc,
Complete job takes about 15/20 mins inc recheck

[Ethel]

The rule of 9 is simple & works, but you can do even less turning.

 

If a cylinder is on its power stroke both valves are closed & can be adjusted. The next to fire will be on compression, so both valves are also closed and adjustable. The exhaust or inlet valve on each of the cylinders will also be adjustable. Just have the engine roughly half way between between top & bottom dead centre (both the open valves will be close to full lift). Turn the crank 180 degrees, they'll be shut and another 2 will be obviously open, while all others are shut.

[imack]

Top gear and rock the car back and forth. I don't bother taking the plugs out.

[foreverfixin]

Okay thanks for your help. The problem at the moment is that I don’t have the drive shafts on or hubs and suspension! I’ll have to wait until the wheels are fitted before being able to check/refine the settings. Nor do I have any hydraulics for the clutch so released the clutch using a piece of 1” square tube on the clutch arm so that I could get the engine to turn (a method suggested somewhere by our antipodean friend Moke Spider) as I couldn’t work out how to get neutral just by using the gear selector shaft protruding from the gearbox.

[Midas Mk1]

Do you have a haynes manual? it’s essential. It’s all covered in there, no need at all as above to remove anything other than the rocker cover.

Edited by Midas Mk1, 07 May 2022 - 02:57 PM.

[Midas Mk1]

.

Edited by Midas Mk1, 07 May 2022 - 02:57 PM.

[Spherix]

Okay thanks for your help. The problem at the moment is that I don’t have the drive shafts on or hubs and suspension! I’ll have to wait until the wheels are fitted before being able to check/refine the settings. Nor do I have any hydraulics for the clutch so released the clutch using a piece of 1” square tube on the clutch arm so that I could get the engine to turn (a method suggested somewhere by our antipodean friend Moke Spider) as I couldn’t work out how to get neutral just by using the gear selector shaft protruding from the gearbox.

 

Why the urgency to do tappets when the car is in that state? Continue the buildup and make your live easier I'd say.

[sonscar]

Because sometimes you just NEED to do that thing.People buy wheels when there is still years of welding left,I have been there and done similar stuff,Steve..

[foreverfixin]

I agree that I was being a bit hasty wanting to do the valve clearances. Having put the engine in I was simply wanting to finish everything that I could in the engine bay before moving on to the drive shafts, hubs and suspension, but being a novice didn’t think things through! We live and learn.