24 replies to this topic

[brownspeed]

During a spirited drive yesterday, the engine lost power and cut out, luckily, I was able to pull into a safe place and park up. investigation at the roadside showed no spark at the plugs. The car is fitted with an accuspark electronic ignition module, accuspark coil (ballasted) and plugs. its a 45D dizzy on a 1380A+. It has had a slight misfire on a steady throttle which goes when under load to accelerate which I thought was a carburation/timing issue which i have been chasing to resolve (hence the road test).

SO! is here a way of checking if the coil or ignition module has failed? has anyone else had one of these suddenly let go? I bought it about 2 years ago, so i expect its not under warranty.

But then.......I had to get the car recovered, during which the exhaust snagged on the wagon, pulling it off and disturbing the - rod change gear linkage; its now in gear but the lever does nothing! (AAARGGHH) so later today I'm hoping that linkage reattachment will be a simple thing (I had a brief look last night and everything seems attached under there which worries me a little- i can't see the linkages detached at the gearbox and today will remove what looks like an inspection plate below the car in the gearstick area).

any useful tips or advice would be appreciated on either topic.

PS: I only installed the electronic ignition to improve the bloody reliability!!

 

[bpirie1000]

Check the wires at the coil make sure the coil has some power.
These coils seam to last minutes these days.

Nae luck on the linkage breaking. I would suggest that the rubber bobbin mounts may have been victim of the tow truck.

Always best to check i would say. Jack it up and check everything... only way to be sure...

[brownspeed]

thanks bpirie;

I dropped the cover off the linkage below the gearstick; the yoke is broke, so got a new one on order.

The coil is brand new Accuspark, i doubt if its done 100 miles since i fitted it. Because its in gear atm I can't spin it on the started and check for a spark at the plug (there wasn't one last week when she failed on me but that WAS in bright sunshine) anyone else care to shed any light on checking the electronic ignition??

[D 'n A]

My ignition module on the side of the distributor failed recently. It gave some problems when driving in rain, but that could be anything. Made an appointment to set up my carb. Drove 100miles, stopped the car was checked, but it would not start anymore. It died when visiting the Mini specialist, sometimes the universe is good to me.

I believe they measured one of the wires running from the dizzy to the coil to come to that conclusion. Turned out my module was damaged and repaired before because the housing was cracked.

[bpirie1000]

thanks bpirie;
I dropped the cover off the linkage below the gearstick; the yoke is broke, so got a new one on order.
The coil is brand new Accuspark, i doubt if its done 100 miles since i fitted it. Because its in gear atm I can't spin it on the started and check for a spark at the plug (there wasn't one last week when she failed on me but that WAS in bright sunshine) anyone else care to shed any light on checking the electronic ignition??

Hope the recovery guys are paying for the repairs.....

[brownspeed]

what? and spoil all my fun*!!!??. Nah! the recovery cost was only £40 and the bloke was mortified when he found out the havoc he'd caused!! 

 

*terms & conditions apply.**

 

**I've recently moved house, my lad (the legitimate owner of the car) is due to get his first house next week; so we're both busy. the replacement yoke arrived today, as did the boot release for my TVR. i'll just add this to the every growing list of jobs in my world.........................................

[Zami]

Just fired up my 1380 a few months ago after updating a few items over the winter.   Noticed my new tach needle was bouncing around a lot.  Took it for a ride and it started to cut out whenever I tried to accelerate.  Then it just quit.  It turned out the coil was bad (GCL143) couldn’t get a ohm reading off the negative and positive poles.  running MS electronic ignition,  about 3 years old,  Very low mileage.  Replaced with new coil runs great, tach no longer bounces around.  Now carry a spare in the boot.

[Zami]

Just fired up my 1380 a few months ago after updating a few items over the winter.   Noticed my new tach needle was bouncing around a lot.  Took it for a ride and it started to cut out whenever I tried to accelerate.  Then it just quit.  It turned out the coil was bad (GCL143) couldn’t get a ohm reading off the negative and positive poles.  running MS electronic ignition,  about 3 years old,  Very low mileage.  Replaced with new coil runs great, tach no longer bounces around.  Now carry a spare in the boot.

[ThermalEvent]

I had a similar problem of misfiring at part throttle and back firing but ran fine under wide open throttle. Tach needle also jumping about and hitting the limiter.

Removed the dizzy cap and turned out to be the earth wire in the electronic dizzy had rubbed though and was earthing out on the square pick up part of the shaft.

[brownspeed]

all good (and simple stuff for me to check) thanks lads!

[brownspeed]

BUMP!!. Ok so i got the linkage repaired (finally- between bouts of home improvements in the pursuit of Brownie points!)

couldn't see any disconnected wires in the circuits (doesn't mean they're not there; i just aint seen any!)

I have tried to test the coil by disconnecting the  (- ive ) wires to it, running a lead direct from the HT outlet to a spark plug, and switching the ignition on. then with a new wire off the (- ive ) flashing it to earth on the head. I got a spark between the head and the dummy wire but sod all at the plug. even tried a spare coil and no spark still. am I missing a trick here?.  AAARRRGGGHHH!!!

any further advice gratefully received

[Lplus]

If you got a spark from the coil ht direct to the head with a bodge wire, do you get a spark if you use the distributor to fire the coil but still go direct from coil ht to the head?  If so then the ht system in the distributor may be faulty.  If not the electronics would be the likely culprit.

[brownspeed]

the spark was not from the HT wire; it was from the bodge wire to the head.

I orignally had nothing via the distributor; (I've even tried using different spark plugs to eradicate THAT possibility) that was my initial check when it broke down; i set a plug on the block and had no spark when i cranked it.

Today i thought I'd try and find out if it was the coil or the ignition, .....or the wiring.

On the basis that i get a spark from the dummy wire to the block; i MUST have a circuit, which thus means the wiring is ok (or is it?; anyone) however the lack of spark at the plug using either coil makes me think i'm missing a trick somehow???

 

I also checked the lead for continuity but as its a silicon lead I don't think that test works! (alternatively all my leads have failed simultaneously) I'm quite good at welding but have realised I'm rubbish with electrics!

Edited by brownspeed, 11 August 2022 - 06:16 PM.

[sonscar]

The coil is powered by the ign on the positive side.The negative side is turned on and off by either the points or the electronic module.If you put a lead and plug into the top of the coil and connect a wire from the negative to earth the coil charges up.Disconnecting this wire causes it to fire,the plug needs to be earthed to the motor.
The spark normally goes to the centre of the cap,through the carbon bush,along the rotor arm,and then to the contact for a cylinder,through the plug lead sparking the plug to earth.Following this will locate your fault.
The distributor is not magic.Have fun,Steve..

[brownspeed]

Thanks Steve; sonscar?? sounds like my situation.

So from that; i think both the new coil and original coil are both knackered then. i wired it as you described and there was nowt. not a sausage. b*gg*r all.

think i'll but new coil and ignition set. on the basis the accuspark lasted about 150 miles; who else should i consider?