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Homemade 18G574B


Best Answer weef , 02 July 2022 - 04:27 PM

Your home made tool looks well up to the job. If you think that it is not square there will be evidence of the nut cutting into the top flange on the high spot. 

Make the tube flange holes a bit bigger than the threaded rod to give things a bit of wiggle room. Put a heavy duty washer of the correct diameter to suit the threaded rod between the top flange and the nut. I do not see any evidence of grease, liberally lubricate the threads. If you use a "coupler nut" ensure that it is of a comparable hardness grade to suit. It does take a fair bit of force to compress these rubbers be cautious and mind your fingers.

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#1 mbolt998

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Posted 02 July 2022 - 07:38 AM

Anyone tried making one of these? The thread size you need to go into the cone is unusual-- M14. My hardware store didn't have threaded rod in that size but sold me a bolt which is therefore welded onto the end of some M16 rod.
 
It did work (and as you can see my 43 year old cone looks rather interesting compared to the new one-- I expect a more supple ride from now on) but both times (I also put the new cone in) the M16 nut on the tool got stuck and had to be cut off. I suspect the flange that it bears on is not perfectly flat enough so the nut is getting pushed at an angle and that's enough to cross-thread it. I might try two nuts welded together for more strength. Or try and face the flange somehow. The other end also might be a bit squarer.
 
 
18G574B.jpg

 

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#2 Edington

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Posted 02 July 2022 - 09:03 AM

Don't forget there are two different threads depending on age!



#3 Spider

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Posted 02 July 2022 - 09:22 AM

The hole through the Subframe - at least in the twin bolt types - is about 14.5 mm, the 14 mm tool only just clears that.

 

If you jump on the web, you can get M14 High Tensile Althread, it's a bit odd ball so not something the hardware usually keeps, but many fastener suppliers have it. Also, buy a couple of 'Joiner Nuts' these are about 3 times the length of a normal nut, it'll just allow you to get a much longer life from your home made tool.

I like your home made tool, it is neat.



#4 nicklouse

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Posted 02 July 2022 - 10:03 AM

I would make the part that bears on the top of the crossmember bigger and not round. The crush supports are wider than one would think. And having it rest against the upright means it is easier to turn the T bar.



#5 imack

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Posted 02 July 2022 - 11:40 AM

This is my homemade cone compressor tool.
A scrap length of steel bar turned down with a 14mm thread one end, a Suzuki Swift hub nut and whatever the thread was cut into the other end. An offcut of 38mm rollcage tube with an old idler gear thrust washer welded to the top as a bearing surface and some offcuts of 3mm steel welded together to form 6mm the base and 3mm bracing.

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#6 Ethel

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Posted 02 July 2022 - 01:20 PM

That's nice 'n chunky. Having it so you can add or remove the nut with t'other end screwed in to cone is good. A means of locking the nut to help extract it from the cone could prove useful too. either a 2nd nut or dropping on a bit of tube, or deep socket to push against the tommy bar. Some good sized washers smeared in grease could help it run smoother & counter that stuck nut issue.

 

I like Spider's joiner nut suggestion - room for a couple of spanners, to wind like a tommy bar, will load it better to pull square.



#7 weef

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Posted 02 July 2022 - 04:27 PM   Best Answer

Your home made tool looks well up to the job. If you think that it is not square there will be evidence of the nut cutting into the top flange on the high spot. 

Make the tube flange holes a bit bigger than the threaded rod to give things a bit of wiggle room. Put a heavy duty washer of the correct diameter to suit the threaded rod between the top flange and the nut. I do not see any evidence of grease, liberally lubricate the threads. If you use a "coupler nut" ensure that it is of a comparable hardness grade to suit. It does take a fair bit of force to compress these rubbers be cautious and mind your fingers.



#8 Spider

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Posted 02 July 2022 - 08:09 PM

Sorry, I didn't realise this was a show and tell too !

Nice work there Imack.

 

I have a few compressors, I made this one a few years back;-

 

uApWm1f.jpg

 

While I do use it most of the time in a Hydraulic mode, it does also work on the Thread too. Here ^ I have the spacer fitted as it's being used out of car. It is made from some M16 HT Althread, but the lower 8 or so inches have been turned to 14 mm and an M14 thread cut in the bottom end.

 

I also have a long M14 Tap;-

 

7ILZPHc.jpg

 

None of my compressor tools ever get fitted to any cone without the tap going through them first, even new ones. I found on those that have been fitted, the threads do get a little rusty and sometimes cruddy too and the new ones, often there is rubber compound left in the threads. It's all too easy to damage the tool or get it stuck in a cone.

 



#9 mbolt998

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Posted 02 July 2022 - 08:27 PM

I would make the part that bears on the top of the crossmember bigger and not round. The crush supports are wider than one would think. And having it rest against the upright means it is easier to turn the T bar.

Yes that sounds like a good idea. I made it 45.5mm diameter which was the same as the washer on that big fat bolt at the top (mine's a '79 and has the single bolt). I thought that seemed like a good size because it would fit.



#10 mbolt998

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Posted 02 July 2022 - 08:29 PM


 

While I do use it most of the time in a Hydraulic mode, it does also work on the Thread too. Here ^ I have the spacer fitted as it's being used out of car. It is made from some M16 HT Althread, but the lower 8 or so inches have been turned to 14 mm and an M14 thread cut in the bottom end.

 

I also have a long M14 Tap;-

 

7ILZPHc.jpg

 

None of my compressor tools ever get fitted to any cone without the tap going through them first, even new ones. I found on those that have been fitted, the threads do get a little rusty and sometimes cruddy too and the new ones, often there is rubber compound left in the threads. It's all too easy to damage the tool or get it stuck in a cone.

Yes mine wouldn't screw in easily either. I wondered if I had the non-metric size, but it's supposed to be metric from 1976 and my car is 1979. Not owning a tap that big I just cut a slot in the side of the M14 bolt which is usually enough to clear out some of the crap in there. Anyway it went in enough that I could get the spring out but I didn't manage to screw it down as far as I would have liked. Now that that cone is out of the car I can properly check if it is M14 before tackling the other side.



#11 mbolt998

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Posted 02 July 2022 - 08:31 PM

Your home made tool looks well up to the job. If you think that it is not square there will be evidence of the nut cutting into the top flange on the high spot. 

Make the tube flange holes a bit bigger than the threaded rod to give things a bit of wiggle room. Put a heavy duty washer of the correct diameter to suit the threaded rod between the top flange and the nut. I do not see any evidence of grease, liberally lubricate the threads. If you use a "coupler nut" ensure that it is of a comparable hardness grade to suit. It does take a fair bit of force to compress these rubbers be cautious and mind your fingers.

 

Great tips thanks! Yes I thought the top flange did look a bit gouged. But the other end of the tool came out squarer. The holes are 16.5mm which was my biggest drill bit but I might file them out a bit more. I plan on using a washer next time and also will experiment with a couple of nuts welded together so there are more threads available.
 



#12 Maccmike8

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Posted 02 July 2022 - 08:31 PM

Yep I made my own. Works perfectly.



#13 mbolt998

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Posted 02 July 2022 - 08:32 PM

This is my homemade cone compressor tool.
A scrap length of steel bar turned down with a 14mm thread one end, a Suzuki Swift hub nut and whatever the thread was cut into the other end. An offcut of 38mm rollcage tube with an old idler gear thrust washer welded to the top as a bearing surface and some offcuts of 3mm steel welded together to form 6mm the base and 3mm bracing.

That looks very good. I think the finer thread on the nut you're screwing down is probably a good idea: more force for less torque on the nut.



#14 mbolt998

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Posted 03 July 2022 - 01:30 PM

Update. Following Mini Mad's suggestions I made the holes in the flanges bigger (from 16.5mm to 18mm-- I remembered I had a step drill which is actually still quite sharp at the big end). I also replaced the 3/4" square tube (whose ID was only about 16mm) with some 1" round tube (ID 22.2mm). This means there's just enough slop for it to find its level and have the nut properly square on the top. Also added a washer and some grease. And replaced the main M16 portion as well as it was a bit damaged, with the same M14 bolt on the bottom.

 

It now works perfectly! I compressed the new spring again (since I forgot to put the rebound rubber back-- actually now for the first time I understand why you're supposed to put a bit of wood in there) and the tool wound out again fine with no damage to the nut. Will probably have to compress it again to put the hub back on now since the new spring has so much extension on it. But this no problem as I now have the right tool.

 

Thanks for all the help everyone!

 

Attached File  18G574B-Mark2.jpg   56.71K   0 downloads



#15 coopertaz

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Posted 04 July 2022 - 12:37 PM

never seen a hydraulic compressor before, novel!






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