13 replies to this topic

[JDMRoverMini]

I"ll be replacing the front brake pads only. All other parts appear good, and not needing replacement at this time, but I have some squeak when braking.

 

I believe the process should be:

1. remove split pins and and anti-rattle springs
2. remove old pads
3. clean calipers
4. refit new pads with anti-rattle springs and split pins

 

do I need to bleed the brakes, or do anything with the reservoir? I can top of fluid, but what else?

[cal844]

Yes those steps are correct but you'll need to push the pistons back, so it'll look like:



remove split pins and and anti-rattle springs.

remove old pads.

clean calipers push back pistons (I do this before removing the old pads, so using a large screwdriver to pry between the pad and disc).

A light smear of grease on the ears and back of the pad

refit new pads with anti-rattle springs and split pins (renew split pins)

Remember to pump the brake pedal until pressure point is back to where it was BEFORE DRIVING

Hope this helps and solves any issues you may have (anything you ain't sure about please reply on the thread, there is never a silly question!)

Cal844

[panky]

And make sure there's enough room in the reservoir for the fluid pushed back from the callipers. 

[JDMRoverMini]

And make sure there's enough room in the reservoir for the fluid pushed back from the callipers.

Since pushing back the piston moves fluid from the lines, increasing the reservoir level, correct?

But no traditional bleeding needs to be done?

Edited by JDMRoverMini, 02 July 2022 - 06:38 PM.

[JDMRoverMini]

Remember to pump the brake pedal until pressure point is back to where it was BEFORE DRIVING

Cal844

Car on or off?

[Alex_B]

 

Remember to pump the brake pedal until pressure point is back to where it was BEFORE DRIVING

Cal844

Car on or off?

 

Doesn't matter, pumping the brake pedal just ensures the pistons in the calipers get pushed back out and means the pads are sitting in their correct position close to the disk.

No bleeding will be required provided air doesn't enter the system, but you would have to drain the reservoir or have a leak in the hydraulic lines to let air in. 

[cal844]

Remember to pump the brake pedal until pressure point is back to where it was BEFORE DRIVING

Cal844

Car on or off?

Either, If its a servo equipped mini I'd recommend to start the engine to let the servo help you

Edited by cal844, 02 July 2022 - 07:18 PM.

[JDMRoverMini]

 

 

Remember to pump the brake pedal until pressure point is back to where it was BEFORE DRIVING

Cal844

Car on or off?

Either, If its a servo equipped mini I'd recommend to start the engine to let the servo help you

 

How do I know if I have a servo. It's a 96 JDM SPi.

[timmy850]

A 1996 should have a servo. It’s the black round canister between the pedal box and master cylinder

Unless you know when the brake fluid was last changed, it might be a good idea to do a fluid change. It’s service life is normally rated at a few years

[panky]

 

And make sure there's enough room in the reservoir for the fluid pushed back from the callipers.

Since pushing back the piston moves fluid from the lines, increasing the reservoir level, correct?

 

Correct

[Midas Mk1]

Please get a haynes manual and read thoroughly, this isn’t a task you should be doing if you don’t fully understand the process.

Edited by Midas Mk1, 03 July 2022 - 11:24 AM.

[bpirie1000]

I would suggest whipping the drums off and make sure everything was dry and plenty meat on the shoes.

Do it now before anything needs done on the motorway....

[Ethel]

There's nothing different about Mini discs if you know anyone with a bit of car experience to lend a hand.

 

I'd remove the pads one at a time and press the pedal to push the piston a bit farther out so you can inspect & clean it - but you have to be careful not to eject the piston completely! They're designed for that not to happen if the pad is worn down to the metal to give you an idea. Large spanners make good levers for pushing the pistons back in, repeat until they move with barely no resistance at the pedal.

 

It's not a bad idea to use it as an opportunity to draw fresh fluid in to the caliper, but be wary the bleed screws can seize if they haven't been touched in a while and will be a much bigger job if you shear one. Proceed with caution if you need the car roadworthy. (and keep an eye on the fluid reservoir for topping up, with the same specification of fluid - usually Dot4)

 

Also, while you've got the wheels off inject some grease in the suspension joints - you will need a grease gun if you're going to be a Mini's domestic servant.

[coopertaz]

also remember after renewing pads brakes may feel poor until pads are bedded in and drive steady first couple of days with this in mind.