12 replies to this topic

[Hpal]

Hi, 

Just starting a build thread for my mini which I bought in a sad state in 2017. What I thought was a quick tidy up and onto historic rego has turned into a closed door respray (currently happening, doing it myself at home) nearly every part renewed, engineers certificate for seats and seatbelts, and a supercharged 1098 (actually about 1150cc +0.060"). Lots of machining work done by myself wedging the crank, lightening the flywheel and setting the clutch up, and doing most of the mods in Graham Russell's project smallbore articles. Currently the engine is out again for a new diff ratio 3.1:1 and some supercharger pulley mods, then it'll go back in when the painting is done and I can get the fuelling of the SU sorted properly and maybe fit a megajolt system. The plan is over the next couple of years to build up a 1275 based engine and turbocharge it, with heaps of new parts like an a+ crankshaft, H beam rods, MED flywheel and clutch etc. 

Here are a few pics from my "introduce yourself" thread from a when I got the car Mini 1000 In Australia - Introduce Yourself - The Mini Forum

 

Attached Files

•  IMG_6458.jpg   83.6K   0 downloads

[Hpal]

A few pics of the journey. Mainly the engine which I’m proud of the work that has gone into it.

Attached Files

•  D8F23245-5357-48AA-B839-C2B6FB73B3D7.jpeg   96.05K   1 downloads
•  86A408FA-956E-4FA9-8C72-52BF85F68ADF.jpeg   76.03K   3 downloads
•  27C1A0E0-91D6-4E05-95DB-C3C6CE45E1F9.jpeg   108.73K   2 downloads
•  8375C798-EECC-4D93-9826-6FEECB5DC282.jpeg   38.47K   0 downloads

[Hpal]

My latest project is modifying a 202 head for the supercharged engine to lower the compression a bit and squeeze more boost in, sort of a 12g295 spec or close enough. After porting and chamber work and before pushing the new valve guides in I noticed the spring seats were at different heights. I began about making a carbide cutter specifically for the job, it took a while but turned out very nice. Next I will grind a back cut on the valves and cut the new seats, then skim the head to clean it up. I am now contemplating new springs and wanted to know what people think I should use. I am thinking just a new set of single springs, all the valve gear is standard and just a reground 266 cam, and being an 1100 I don’t rev the tits off it it’s more a torquey type engine. I tend to think double springs would wear the cam and followers prematurely.

Attached Files

•  27693E49-8BB6-419A-8322-25280C68A274.jpeg   60.12K   1 downloads
•  7BDE074E-FC67-43ED-BBD6-E2B668A33ACA.jpeg   61.83K   2 downloads
•  449C2FAB-3D56-4194-BA06-281498AD8E7C.jpeg   55.01K   1 downloads
•  F465C836-6A79-4CA2-9B6A-93095571E4DB.jpeg   44.2K   1 downloads
•  AB54E89D-4461-4263-8E4D-ABF2E0C1C8DF.jpeg   48.66K   0 downloads

[Hpal]

New spring seats cut in the head. All the same height now.

Attached Files

•  DC416860-CF48-4B11-8E0A-E43AD6EC3A8D.jpeg   72.12K   0 downloads

[stuart bowes]

blimey you know someone knows what they're about when they're making their own precision tools ..

 

looking forward to seeing future posts ;)

[Hpal]

Thanks mate. I hadn’t made any tooling before that Involved silver soldering tungsten carbide tips, so that was a good thing to learn. I do most of my work with my grandfather in his shed where he works on many projects including his two Jags, he’s 81 and a retired fitter machinist who works a full day in the shed every day. We do a bit of machining and toolmaking work. Glad I cut the spring seats the same height, I think shimming them up would have seemed a bit of a shortcut, although it would have done the job perfectly fine.

Photos below of the jags, my wedged crank, lightened flywheel, rebushed rod change selector, rebushed clutch plunger bore, custom longer top engine steady.

Attached Files

•  FF95BD0A-C06C-44ED-84C1-F326C318AABD.jpeg   79.37K   1 downloads
•  7A8A6FD3-0E1E-4D28-9EBE-D3515A03831F.jpeg   49.88K   2 downloads
•  BDCC6EE8-E94E-495D-8375-94340795B810.jpeg   43.78K   1 downloads
•  A31C5C23-AAE1-4BBB-8AC0-4B4B606FC9DA.jpeg   59.77K   0 downloads
•  695F3201-F66C-483A-B148-A7A25274D0D1.jpeg   26.37K   0 downloads
•  7128DEA3-7431-44FA-A1EE-524EF813E1F6.jpeg   30.1K   1 downloads
•  9976D2D5-41F2-4BDB-A712-F6DE58E95035.jpeg   39.28K   1 downloads

[stuart bowes]

the two best cars jag made, a classic mini, and a 110

 

add a mark 1 escort and you'd have a full house I reckon lol 

[jamesquintin]

so jealous that you get to work with your grandad and learn those skills! 

[Hpal]

the two best cars jag made, a classic mini, and a 110

add a mark 1 escort and you'd have a full house I reckon lol

This one is my mums.

Attached Files

•  D8D7FF33-F03B-41D2-A53A-144FF77125D2.jpeg   75.58K   0 downloads

[stuart bowes]

nice, my parents had a few of them in a couple of different shapes before I was born

 

last one got T-boned at a junction unfortunately

 

they don't make them pretty like they used to

[Hpal]

If anyone can point me to some good secondhand or cheap new parts for my build that would be appreciated. Can't seem to find the megajolt ecu at the right price ($435aud) and need all parts to build a megajolt system, and chasing a gt1752 turbo and fusion fabs low mount manifold and dump pipe, and plenum suit HIF44. Cheers  (can't post in the wanted section till I get to 150 posts)

[Hpal]

I have been busy buying parts to build the 1275 turbo engine, 

-New a+ crankshaft

-Rebuilt DAM5626 gearbox with 3.1 diff and I will fit the cross pin diff I have also bought.

-Megajolt ecu on order and have bought a kit with all other necessary parts to get it going.

 

Need to sort fuel return and pressure reg, obtain a turbo manifold, turbo, and plenum plus 1000 other bits needed.

 

Next thing to investigate is what clutch I can get away with, i'm gonna say about 130hp but I really am just guessing and need someone to point me in the right direction regarding clutch choice, something that can take the torque but not be a ******* to drive, Cheers

[mini13]

at that kind of hp you might just get away wth a metro turbo setup, but the turbo +20% uprated cover and a rally plate would do the trick.

 

somthig you could do is rig it up so you can check it before it goes in the car, basically rig up an adaptor  on the clutch for a torqure wrench and see what torque it will hold