16 replies to this topic

[MiniFanGraham]

Hi, need some advice, somehow I managed to shear my engine steady bolt on minivan

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Can this be drilled and removed with bolt extractor without removing engine ?

If not are there any alternative solutions, attaching to another point on this side of engine ?

Can another one be fitted to other side of engine in case it happens again ? Does this require any welding ?
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What could have caused this - as this does not look to be corrosion.
Over aggressive gear changes ?
Not smooth application of acceleration and deceleration ?
Not smooth application of breaking ?
Something else ?

Edited by MiniFanGraham, 30 July 2022 - 03:06 PM.

[nicklouse]

Get it removed.

 

or buy a kit that means you don’t need to use it. Look on MiniSpares web site.

[MiniFanGraham]

Just looked at Minispares

Confused by the pictures on these options - they all look the same ? does not make it easy to select correct one.

MSSK002 - ENGINE STEADY REPAIR - 1 BROKEN BOLT NO BREATHER  - I guess this is the one i need

MSSK004 - ENGINE STEADY REPAIR - 2 BROKEN BOLTS NO BREATHER

MSSK005 - ENGINE STEADY REPAIR - 2 BROKEN BOLTS WITH BREATHER

 

[MiniFanGraham]

well that was easier than I thought, drilled a hole in bolt, then attached nut extractor and out it came
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new bolt ordered, watching my fav film to celebrate - The Italian job (the original and best one) on now itv4 :)

Edited by MiniFanGraham, 30 July 2022 - 04:35 PM.

[Quinlan minor]

Just a thought:

The bolt looks a lttle shiny in the photo, it's not stainless, by any chance?

It's important that a bolt, in this sort of location, is the correct grade/tensility for the job.

[DeadSquare]

My brother over tightened this bolt on his Mini Van in 1965, and snapped it,

 

I thought it would be a nasty job removing the sheared remains, but the hardest part was being able to see where to hold the center punch, and then hit it.

 

It actually rotated as I was drilling the hole, into which I hammered an Allen key, and it unscrewed with no problem.

 

These days, if there is room to drill,  I hammer in a male "Torx" bit, and gently "Rattle-gun" it.

[MiniFanGraham]

yeah i'm thinking it may have been, was fitted by previous owner.
I did find it very easy to drill into so I suspect it was
New one ordered from Minispares part number BH605151

does look a bit shiny too

- I hope they supply correct sort and grade

If anyone has experience of using one from MS and would advise against it, can anyone suggest an alternative supplier ?

[mini-mad-mark]

Word of cation using them

 

I tried an "Eezi-out" one time and it broke off and of course they are very hard and more or less undrillable (new word there!) - in the end I had to take the engine out split it and have it spark eroded, weld repaired and re-tapped at no small expense.

 

On my current engine which broke due too vibration I didn't bother - I used one of the engine steady repair brackets 

[Steve220]

Just a thought:

The bolt looks a lttle shiny in the photo, it's not stainless, by any chance?

It's important that a bolt, in this sort of location, is the correct grade/tensility for the job.

You're right. Good job stainless bolt shear strength is higher than 8.8. If it was tension capacity, then it would be another story!

Edited by Steve220, 31 July 2022 - 10:27 AM.

[ac427]

I've often wondered if some LH threaded drills might work too.  Seeing as you have to drill a hole in the first place.

Edited by ac427, 05 August 2022 - 06:14 PM.

[nicklouse]

I've often wonder if some LH threaded drills might work too.  Seeing as you have to drill a hole in the first place.

Often do where something has sheard rather that bottomed out then been broken.

[jeffster06]

well that was easier than I thought, drilled a hole in bolt, then attached nut extractor and out it came
 

 

Had the same issue on my 1275, I couldn't believe it when the extractor worked... I never have luck with those. I was so excited I had to call people to tell them about it lol. 

[Icey]

I've often wonder if some LH threaded drills might work too.  Seeing as you have to drill a hole in the first place.

That's why I have a set. If you are a fan of machining, watch Abom79 on YouTube, he's dealt with stubborn/broken bolts many times and LH drills are the go-to.

[MiniFanGraham]

will have to check out LH threaded drills
Seems shearing the top engine mount bolt is a common thing, any ideas on the cause and what can be done to prevent it happening again ?

[timmy850]

I swapped the engine steady parts from end to end.

I put the “shouldered stud” part 2A5873 onto the engine side. This means when you remove the engine steady in the future to get the engine out you only need to remove the nut & not the threaded section into the block

It also makes it easier at the master cylinder end as the sleeve is much easier to remove than the stud & you don’t have to remove the masters to get it out