7 replies to this topic

[snoutmeat]

Greetings! I've recently acquired a 1993 Mini Mayfair that was converted by the previous owner from SPi to twin HS2s. It was running poorly when it arrived, and when looking it over, I noticed that the (points) distributor was very worn. I've just fitted a nice new electronic distributor, and...how do I set the timing? It's my understanding that the ECU adjusted the timing when the car was injected, so there was no need (or ability) to adjust the timing, so there are no pointer and marks on/near the flywheel for me to check with my strobe light as I was able to do on my old Mk1 and Mk2 cars. Apologies if this has come up before. I have searched the forums and not found anything. I guess maybe I can pull out the #1 plug to see when it's at top dead center (maybe the pulley still has a mark on it?) and then purchase and install the pointer? Or is there a chance that the pointer is still there on the engine even if it's not needed? I suppose I should have inspected that more carefully before posting here, but it's a Japanese car, and the engine bay is a lot more crowded (AC compressor, etc) than it was on my old cars. I did take a quick look for the timing marks, but perhaps I overlooked them?

 

Thanks!

Edited by snoutmeat, 15 November 2022 - 02:24 AM.

[nicklouse]

What is the engine?

 

you may have to make up your own marks and pointer.

 

there are a few topics on determining where TDC is.

[PeterG]

I converted my 92 Spi Cooper to a HIF44 with a 65D distributor from MiniSpares. I found that the timing mark was there on the pulley and also the popinters were on the timing cover. I set my timing to 10 degrees BTDC with vacuum disconnected.

 

Now for the horror story.

I changed my belt system over to the MPI polyv system, which is another whole post. I found that the MPI pulley also had a timing mark on it. A small notch. I had purchased a strobe timing light with adjustable delay so I could verify my timing. With the MPI pulley on the car the new timing light showed that the timing that I thought was 10 degrees BTDC was 2 degrees ATDC, the vacuum advance on the 65D was not functioning, and the maximum dynamic advance on the distributor was 6 degrees.

 

Two problem areas:

 

1: I removed number 1 plug and set the engine at TDC, then looked at the pulley marks and everything was correct. Conclusion: the SPI pulley mark was 12 degrees off from where it should have been. Lesson learned: Set the engine to TDC then paint spot the pulley and ignore any error on the manufactured pulley marking.

 

2: The 65D distributor was a piece of junk. I dismantled it to find the vacuum advance membrane offset during manufacture and subsequently torn. The advance weights were jamming up inside. I threw it away and installed a 123 distributor. The result was idle RPM went up by 500, power from the engine increased dramatically, engine temperature dropped to normal and the aux fan now only comes on when its above 80F and driving in traffic. Lesson learned: You get what you pay for.

 

Hope this helps. The really crazy thing was with all the problems the car would still fly along at 80MPH with ease.

[sonscar]

As I understand the SPI dissy has no advance mechanism in it?Could be wrong,Steve..

[cal844]

There is nothing wrong with a 65D dizzy, I have them on 2 1275 engines and 2 998cc engines, (all bought second hand, I may add!) they're great units if they are checked regularly.

Check the timing atleast once a year to see that the vacuum system works and that there's no issues with the resistance on the module.

These distributors are fine for 50,000 miles+ with only the rotor arm and cap changed every 2 years (just my findings in 10 years using these distributors)

[snoutmeat]

After a more careful look, the timing marks ARE on the engine...I guess it was easier to just keep making the car that way than to change it, even though it shipped with SPI and non-adjustable timing. Now, if I can only get a spark..... :) Will check the wiring tomorrow. 

[snoutmeat]

It's ALIVE! :) Just by looking at the old distributor's position and trying to install the new one with precisely the same rotation, I ended up at 4 degrees BTDC, so it started just fine! 

 

Now it's time to tidy up the wiring a little...as a reminder, it's a 1993 Japan-market Mayfair that's been converted from SPI to twin SU carbs and a traditional distributor. I just pulled out a points distributor and installed an electronic version with no points. So....

 

--if it has electronic ignition, no need for the condenser.

 

--looks like the previous owner installed a little fuel pump under the hood and is powering the pump from a wire that was twisted to the coil "+" terminal....not even a spade connector. :) Not a recipe for reliability.  I'll be fixing that soon.

 

--If I'm using carbs and a traditional distributor, is there any reason for me to keep that "ROVER" shiny metal box (computer) under the hood? It's a lot more crowded in there than it was on my Mk1/Mk2 cars -- modern brake booster, AC components, etc. Does the computer manage anything other than spark and injection? Like the gauges or anything? I suppose I'll go rummage around under the hood to see if the thing is even connected. 

[Pigeonto]

If it had been converted the way I now do it you'd have had no problems at all.

 i.e...Keep the SPI dizzy and ECU, continue with the timing which the factory decided on. It's fairly good, a little 'safe' but not bad. It's only the fuelling method that's been converted, no need to have touched the ignition side of things.

Edited by Pigeonto, 08 December 2022 - 11:52 AM.