6 replies to this topic

[7builder]

Is it possible to replace an 11 blade cooling fan in an SPi mini without removing the radiator?

If not what is the best way to remove the radiator as it looks like a pig of a job? I've read that the bottom hose clamp is difficult to access so some people recommend removing it from the water pump end but how do you get to the bottom bolt nearest the bulkhead to release the rad from the cowl?

I'm going to be doing this in the freezing foggy weather tomorrow so and hints tips or trick will be most welcome.

[Midas Mk1]

Long screwdriver, and you’ll be fine, read the haynes and you won’t have any trouble.

[7builder]

Long screwdriver, and you’ll be fine, read the haynes and you won’t have any trouble.

I read the Haynes manual but it wasn't that clear. Do you remove the radiator on its own or with the cowl still attached?

[Midas Mk1]

Disconnect top bottom hose on rad, remove top bracket, 4 bolts on cowling, loosen bottom cowling bolt, slide rad out with cowling in situe.

[7builder]

Disconnect top bottom hose on rad, remove top bracket, 4 bolts on cowling, loosen bottom cowling bolt, slide rad out with cowling in situe.

Thanks Midas when you say with cowling in situ do you mean left in the engine bay? I couldn't even see the lower cowling bolt nearest the bulkhead so not sure how I am going to get a spanner or socket on is as access is so tight

[MikeRotherham]

I find the easiest way to remove the radiator after you've drained it is to remove all the bolts holding it in place.

 

These are the ones holding the bracket between the radiator and the thermostat housing.

 

The long bolt holding the bottom of the radiator to the engine. Accessible from the front after removing the grill.

 

The four bolts holding the cowl to the radiator. If you then push the cowl back towards the engine as far as it will go.

 

The radiator should now have enough movement to detach the hoses. The top first then the bottom. Because the radiator has some movement there will be a little more space to access the jubilee clip holding the bottom hose on. I use an 8mm nut spinner with an extension to loosen and tighten the clip. It also helps here if you've got small hands!

 

The radiator can now be lifted out followed by the cowl.

 

https://www.spear-an...es/nut-spinners

 

Replacement is the reverse of the above but use a piece of card infront of the radiator fins to protect them when positioning the radiator.

Edited by MikeRotherham, 02 December 2022 - 03:24 PM.

[7builder]

Well that was a ball ache. The first bolt I tried to removed that fixes the cowling to the radiator sheared off so I wasn't prepared to risk snapping the others. So I had no choice but to remove the radiator with the cowling attached. I removed the top bracket and the long bolt through the bottom of the cowling and after disconnecting the top hose was able to lift the rad up enough to get a small socket on the bottom hose clamp and remove the rad and cowling as one. The fan was quickly swapped out for a new one then hours of frustration began trying to refit the rad. No matter how I tried I couldn't get the bottom cowling fixing point to fit between the bottom bracket arms and line up for the bolt to go through. The rad was in and out more times than a fiddlers elbow until I was finally able to get it all lined up and fitted correctly.

It's not a job I am looking forward to ever doing again.

Edited by 7builder, 02 December 2022 - 04:31 PM.