8 replies to this topic

[Ricester]

Hey, 

 

Ive made a bit of an error. 

 

I have installed a Retrosport backplate for the timing gear - the one with the big lip. 

 

Ive then fit my timing gears on. The Cam gear went on very easily but the crank gear needed a good bit of persuading with a mallet. 

 

Anyway.... as Ive got so little experience, turns out I was not quite at TDC when I fitted the gears. When I get to TDC the dots dont quite line up on the gears. I now cant time the cam properly and need the gears back off to reset. 

 

I cannot get the Crank gear off. I cant get decent purchase with a 3 leg pulley as I can only get 2 legs under the gear. The lip on the backplate means I cant get anything under one side of the gear. 

 

The Crank keyway is where the gear is tight - I take it there is no way of getting this off while the gear is in place. 

 

Any ideas on how I can get this gear off? Thanks. 

[Spider]

This is what's put me off these kits. They appear excellent in every other aspect, but it has always escaped me as to how to remove the Crank Sprocket.

 

Perhaps, one thing that might work here is if you got a lever (like a tyre lever ?) in under it if you came in from the Camshaft side of it ? You'll want to put something under the fulcrum point of your chosen lever though so as to not damage the alloy backing plate.

Just as I typed that out, another way that sprung to mind is to use a 2 leg type puller that has the rods with the threaded ends and these of around M6 or maybe M8 ends. Slip a nut in under the teeth of the sprocket to screw these in to. You might also need to slip something over the legs too to stop them wanting to spread apart.

[KTS]

..some heat on the sprocket may also help 

[nicklouse]

The key will have shifted which was why it was hard to fit. But yes it will not be easy to remove.

I would be making a tool to get under it.

[Shooter63]

I think this type of puller may be best, if you take the long bolts out and reverse them, using the head of the bolts under the gear although you may have to grind them down a bit to gain clearance around the gear and fix them to the body using nuts, it should pull the gear off no problem, but remember to put the pulley bolt back in for the puller to bear against or you'll mullah the thread.

Shooter

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[Ricester]

I think this type of puller may be best, if you take the long bolts out and reverse them, using the head of the bolts under the gear although you may have to grind them down a bit to gain clearance around the gear and fix them to the body using nuts, it should pull the gear off no problem, but remember to put the pulley bolt back in for the puller to bear against or you'll mullah the thread.

Shooter

Thanks, Ive thought about the 2 leg pullers. Unfortunately I dont have 180 degrees of clearance around the sprocket because of the timing cover and the chain. I can only get to less than half the sprocket unfortunately. 

[Quinlan minor]

Would drilling and tapping the sprocket be possible?

[Steve220]

As KTS rightly puts, add heat. On these kits, I generally run some 1000 grit wet and dry on the inside of the gear to get rid of some of the coating. Makes them easier to remove.

[Ricester]

Thanks all for the input.

Update - she’s off!! As suggested the key wasn’t properly seated in the crank, likely because it’s a bit of a mess itself.

Heat and a crowbar was just enough to get it moving. Once the chain was off I could get the 3 leg puller on and apart from the key desperately trying to hold on, it eventually came off. New key required. There’s a few small indents on the timing cover too, but thankfully not across or affecting the oil seal channel.

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