14 replies to this topic

[WhRob]

Hi all, I've got a 93 mini and looking to convert to an oval centre binaccle. I've read the excellent guides on here about wiring in the gauges (and I know I also need a different Speedo cable and dash liners) but I'm struggling to figure out where the binaccle screws into behind the dash?
As it's a later mini, do I need to make any modifications to get the binaccle to fit? Or should there be screw holes waiting for me? Any help/photos appreciated!

[Shooter63]

What you will find on a car of your age is that you will need to move the heater hoses from the bulkhead back to the cross member as the earlier minis, I used a pair of bulkhead pipe fittings which seemed to work OK, there are 4no weld nuts on the bulkhead that you need to fit the binnacle, a problem you might find is that the sealing panel you need to take off to fit the binnacle will be screwed using the aforementioned but glued as well, plus the wiring harness goes through the glued panel, if I honest I just cut a slit in it and lobbed it apart from that it's pretty straightforward.

Shooter

[WhRob]

So I need to move the heater hoses and I've just seen something that says they can go through the blanking plate for the LHD pedal box?

Do I need to remove the big sealing plate in the centre or can I just cut a hole for the Speedo cable/wiring and screw into the captive nuts?

[mab01uk]

So I need to move the heater hoses and I've just seen something that says they can go through the blanking plate for the LHD pedal box?

Do I need to remove the big sealing plate in the centre or can I just cut a hole for the Speedo cable/wiring and screw into the captive nuts?

 

The blanking plate on the bulkhead cross member  for the LHD master cylinders/pedal box are the two holes the heater hoses passed through on earlier RHD Minis. Some people do leave the later heater pipes where they are but that usually means cutting a notch out of the plastic centre binnacle for clearance and an unsightly visible pipe and bulge in the dash panel liner where they come through....a bit of a bodge.

The big bulkhead sealing plate is best removed (careful when cutting it off the wiring loom not to nick the cables with tin snips!) as the centre speedo needs all the space behind and slightly projects through the central bulkhead hole. There will be a noticeable increase in engine noise transmitted to the interior so you really need a soundproofing blanket on the engine side of the bulkhead covering the central hole, Minispares sell suitable material cut to bulkhead profile. The centre sealing plate was not fitted to centre speedo Minis from the factory.....they were only fitted to the Clubman style dash Minis.

 

An aftermarket  sealing plate that I think works with a central speedo is available from Classic Minis Japan in link below:-

https://classicminis...blanking-plate/

 

Or you could make your own or modify your existing plate maybe.....

Edited by mab01uk, 05 January 2023 - 09:30 AM.

[WhRob]

Is it worth getting an aftermarket blank Vs just cutting a hole in the current blank? As the current one seems to be glued on (as well as screwed) it seems easier to leave it if I can?

[alex-95]

You can leave the large blanking plate, like you say just drill a hole and put a grommet in for the speedo cable. The long lamps with the long plastic bits can be heated and bent at an angle (1st photo).

 

I'm not sure if the bulkhead blanking plate fixing screws are in the same place as the binnacle or not.

 

This thread is quite useful if you haven't seen it.

https://www.theminif...-centre-speedo/

 

 

You can just see the speedo cable coming through my plate  in this photo.

[WhRob]

Thanks, that's helpful.

I've seen the other thread, that's my main guide for the electrical work 🙂

I had a look last night and it looks as though the holes on the binnacle dont exactly line up with the holes for the blanking plate?

[alex-95]

Thanks, that's helpful.

I've seen the other thread, that's my main guide for the electrical work

I had a look last night and it looks as though the holes on the binnacle dont exactly line up with the holes for the blanking plate?

 

I've just been and checked on mine and I had to add 2 rivnuts to the top. The bottom 2 bolts for the bulkhead plate can be used for the bottom of the binnacle, Top ones needed to be drilled and rivnut fitted(or another fixing) and don't use too long a screw as it's close to the wiper tubes, I never bothered with the side holes and has been fine for years. 

[alex-95]

You could also make some spacers out of thick rubber or something to bring the binnacle forward to give more space.

[WhRob]

I think I'm going to have to strup back some more of the dashboard and have a play around. Rather than drilling new holes in the car it may be easier to put new holes in the binaccle and use the existing captive nuts in the bulkhead?

[WhRob]

I've also got a black metal frame in the dashboard right in front of the driver which is in the way. Looking online my best guess is a frame for the 2clock cluster?

[1314cc]

Yes it's the frame for the speedo etc. You'll find 4 nuts on the bulkhead engine side

[WhRob]

Thanks for the help so far. I've removed the frame and the insulation.

To reroute the heater hoses I need a new blanking plate but the only ones I've found have 22mm diameter holes but my hoses are ~25mm o/d. If I get new hoses will they fit the heater?

[WhRob]

So I have the wiring out, clock frame out, windscreen out and top foam dash rail out. Just need to move the heater hoses and I'm good to start putting things back together. Before I do a couple more questions:
1 Take off the lower padded dash rail or leave it there? Will it look wrong if I leave it? As it's glued on I don't relish the idea of haviyto clean up the paintwork

2 Any tips on removing the hoses from the heater? They seem really tightly wedged on

3 Any tips for cleaning up and painting the top rail? (I've seen you can get a vinyl cover but I would prefer painted if I can get a good finish)

Cheers

[Shooter63]

Thanks for the help so far. I've removed the frame and the insulation.

To reroute the heater hoses I need a new blanking plate but the only ones I've found have 22mm diameter holes but my hoses are ~25mm o/d. If I get new hoses will they fit the heater?

That's the reason I said to use bulkhead fittings ( in 16mm) all you need to do is drill 2no holes for the fittings through the blanking plate, cut down your heater hoses to fit on the internal end and use new hose on the engine side. Regarding leaving the original blanking plate in place and just cutting a hole for the speedo cable which sounds great, but what happens if a bulb blows in the binnacle, you now have to take the whole shooting match out just to change a bulb, not good eh.

Shooter