35 replies to this topic

[IronmanG]

I drove to Bingley for the first time on on Saturday for the show. The international pick up club had 3 cars on show. Some stunning cars on show being cleaned by toothbrushes and ear buds.
Bought a few bits, sold a few bits and it seemed very busy to me up until about 1pm. Loads of interested parties.

It was a 4 hour drive each way which is the furthest I've gone in 1 sitting.

I noticed problems that before weren't big issues, just things to look at when I get round to it.

1. Noise. At 49mph all good at 52 a drone starts and 60 my ears started to bleed and then at 63 it stopped. Like turning off a switch.
Revs were 3100 to 4000. I'm running an rc40 with single box. Whats peoples experience es with changing exhausts to reduce the drone!

2 Handling. I've had it set up twice. As its started to drop I've raised it back up again on the hi Los to previous. Its dropping quicker on the drivers side as I would expect I suppose.
It feels twitchy. Runs in a straight line nicely takes bumps well. Even over the concrete M25 section. Start turning and the front almost feels like it has too much grip. It turns in and kind of grabs and wants to keep turning. The problem with that is it feels like the back is so loose because the front grabs.
Its not confidence inspiring at all. Maybe its a Pickup thing? Too light on the back?

3. Lights. I came off at Chobham for a leak and cracked up when I realised I was practically in the dark. So classic car led are getting a call this morning for some better bulbs

On the plus. The engine never missed a beat. Didnt drop a spot of oil or water. Brakes were constant and nothing fell off! I can easily keep up with traffic and the amount of respect on the road from people was pretty good
A good weekend

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

I love driving Minis any distance.  I'm more disappointed when I arrive and have to stop driving!

 

The mid range drone is quite common and is more to do with the induction roar.  Much worse if you have an open air filter instead of one in a silencing box as standard ones are but still noticeable with standard filters.  A decent layer of sound insulation between the air filter and bulkhead works well here.

 

Adjusting the front suspension height causes the toe setting to change so you need to check that after any height adjustment, it could be the cause of the strange handling.  

 

Being too light does not make the handling bad otherwise they wouldn't spend so much money lightening competition cars.  I often have this discussion with a Tesla driving friend who is convinced their cars handles well because of the weight of the batteries keeping it planted to the road!  I can't seem to make them appreciate the effect that has on centrifugal force.  I used to have a pickup and it being light it made the suspension seem very stiff at the back but this was more due to the ancient cones which needed replacing however it always stayed planted on the road with all standard components.

 

What lights are you worried about?  Sealed beam headlights aren't the best but a H4 halogen upgrade is cheap and effective.  The other lights are perfectly good if in good condition.

[KTS]

good effort !! 

 

no mention of a numb arse so guess your seats are OK ?

 

does the tailpipe extend beyond the rear valance ?  if it's too short it can result in resonance issues with the subframe void.  another option may be to try the twin box setup 

 

when you've had the suspension set up what figures have you specified ?  

 

with regard to lights; as above, H4 halogens should be more than adequate if the wiring is up to scratch.  I would recommend using a relay sub-loom to power the headlights if not already done that.

[sonscar]

I would have the caster checked and toe out.Both are related.Steve..

[IronmanG]

good effort !!

no mention of a numb arse so guess your seats are OK ?

does the tailpipe extend beyond the rear valance ? if it's too short it can result in resonance issues with the subframe void. another option may be to try the twin box setup

when you've had the suspension set up what figures have you specified ?

with regard to lights; as above, H4 halogens should be more than adequate if the wiring is up to scratch. I would recommend using a relay sub-loom to power the headlights if not already done that.

Seats made a massive difference Pat. Would like to push it back another 2 inches but thats the compromise.
All lights other than headlights are LED so quite bright.
Headlights are original. I will see what CLeD suggest as a replacement
The actual exhaust does stop a bit short and there is a naff chrome sleeve on it that extends it past

[IronmanG]

Figures from mine and Oz memory are
Front-1 camber. 4 caster. Bit of toe out. Cant remember quite how much
Rear 0 camber. -1 toe in

Running standard cones from MS and kyb gas adjust.
28psi all round but I dropped the pressure lower on the back end which felt better

Edited by IronmanG, 30 January 2023 - 01:09 PM.

[OzOAP]

Figures from mine and Oz memory are
Front-1 camber. 4 caster. Bit of toe out. Cant remember quite how much
Rear 0 camber. -1 toe in

Sure it was

Front: 1° neg camber, 4° caster, 10' toeout
Rear: 0 camber, 0 toe

Edited by OzOAP, 30 January 2023 - 01:37 PM.

[Lplus]

I feel sure i recall reading that minis really need some toe in at the back, otherwise they can seem to oversteer on bends.

[IronmanG]

Figures from mine and Oz memory are
Front-1 camber. 4 caster. Bit of toe out. Cant remember quite how much
Rear 0 camber. -1 toe in

Sure it was

Front: 1° neg camber, 4° caster, 10' toeout
Rear: 0 camber, 0 toe

Sure it has toe in at the back. Loads of spacers went in. Even looks like it toes I

[OzOAP]

Figures from mine and Oz memory are
Front-1 camber. 4 caster. Bit of toe out. Cant remember quite how much
Rear 0 camber. -1 toe in

Sure it was

Front: 1° neg camber, 4° caster, 10' toeout
Rear: 0 camber, 0 toe

Sure it has toe in at the back. Loads of spacers went in. Even looks like it toes I

The shims/spacers between subframe and camber bracket reduce the toe in

Edited by OzOAP, 30 January 2023 - 02:12 PM.

[KTS]

the following keeps popping up on various suspension threads and suggests 1/16-1/8" toe-in on the rear.  as above, it may make it (..and you  ) a little less twitchy

 

https://www.theminif...etry/?p=3534517

[IronmanG]

Figures from mine and Oz memory are
Front-1 camber. 4 caster. Bit of toe out. Cant remember quite how much
Rear 0 camber. -1 toe in

Sure it was

Front: 1° neg camber, 4° caster, 10' toeout
Rear: 0 camber, 0 toe

Sure it has toe in at the back. Loads of spacers went in. Even looks like it toes I

The shims/spacers between subframe and camber bracket reduce the toe in

Didn't it need something like 4 in drivers side to get it close? Nearside was fine

[OzOAP]

Can't remember to be honest. If it was that far our I'm sure we would have investigated.
Subframe not straight in car/bent radius arm.....

Edited by OzOAP, 30 January 2023 - 03:07 PM.

[sonikk4]

Graham the main thing is you made it there and back again so testament to a good build. Well done.

[IronmanG]

Cheers Neil.
I dont have the ability to measure but I have put straight edges along the rears. Offaide is more toe i than nearside. How do you increase the amount of toe in