35 replies to this topic

[Spider]

Nice one !
 

If you are only running a single box RC40, I'd suggest fitting a second box to remove that drone. It'll be to do with cam profile and the position of the box you have, which you can't do much about.

Too much toe out on the front or too little toe in on the rear will make it twitchy and want to keep turning in. I note your rear figures have a zero toe angle on the rear, and as Oz suggests, adding shims in the rear reduces Toe.

[IronmanG]

Nice one !

If you are only running a single box RC40, I'd suggest fitting a second box to remove that drone. It'll be to do with cam profile and the position of the box you have, which you can't do much about.

Too much toe out on the front or too little toe in on the rear will make it twitchy and want to keep turning in. I note your rear figures have a zero toe angle on the rear, and as Oz suggests, adding shims in the rear reduces Toe.

Yep I can see that now. Just had a look. I can see the toe in is less on the nearside so I will measure it up and then see which side needs what.

[Spider]

Just in case you'd like to know how much thickness of shims change things, just note that the decimal point is missing from the metric numbers;-

 

[Mini Manannán]

 

good effort !!

no mention of a numb arse so guess your seats are OK ?

does the tailpipe extend beyond the rear valance ? if it's too short it can result in resonance issues with the subframe void. another option may be to try the twin box setup

when you've had the suspension set up what figures have you specified ?

with regard to lights; as above, H4 halogens should be more than adequate if the wiring is up to scratch. I would recommend using a relay sub-loom to power the headlights if not already done that.

Seats made a massive difference Pat. Would like to push it back another 2 inches but thats the compromise.
All lights other than headlights are LED so quite bright.
Headlights are original. I will see what CLeD suggest as a replacement
The actual exhaust does stop a bit short and there is a naff chrome sleeve on it that extends it past

 

 

I can thoroughly recommend the warm white LED headlight bulbs from CLeD:https://www.classicc...t-beam-pattern  I've had them fitted for about 18 months.

[Midas Mk1]

Bulbs wise you can decent led h4’s with a nice output pattern way cheaper, had a few sets over 3 years now.

[coopertaz]

are you sure drone is exhaust. k&n pancake style filters also have this effect switching to one inside a plastic housing with holes drilled infront makes a big difference just not as shiney. for handling have you checked bushes on front tie bars? maybe get a four wheel alignment carried out, at least then will have full details of alignment

[IronmanG]

are you sure drone is exhaust. k&n pancake style filters also have this effect switching to one inside a plastic housing with holes drilled infront makes a big difference just not as shiney. for handling have you checked bushes on front tie bars? maybe get a four wheel alignment carried out, at least then will have full details of alignment

No I'm not sure its exhaust. I run a 7 port so who knows what the harmonics are with that sucking away

All bushes are new relatively and tight.
We did the 4 wheel alignment, but will check again and double check rear toe in

[Cooperman]

I've always found that it is the rear wheel settings which are so important in terms of Mini road-holding and handling.

You can do the settings yourself with a few axle stands, some straight lengths of steel angle or wood and a tape measure.

The holes in the radius arm brackets can be filed to suit, or shims fitted to reduce toe-in, and a large washer welded on to hold the settings once they are correct. 

Whilst doing it, ensure that the rear wheels have zero to 0.5 degrees neg camber. Combined with 3 mm total toe-in will endsure that the road-holding is good and the handling predictable and safe.

If you need more info send me a PM and I'll send you a diagram.

[IronmanG]

Just looking at adjustable rear brackets. KAD, minisport, and mini spares all do some. Does anyone have any feedback on them other than obviously KAD are expensive. Looks like the minispares ones have limited settings and are less adjustable. Minisport are closer to the KAD ones in design. 

 

https://kentautodeve...er-toe-brackets

 

https://www.minispar...ic/MS73EVO.aspx

 

https://www.minispor...ckets-pair.html

[Clip]

I bought the 2nd ones in your list (MS73EVO) and they were dreadful. Bolt holes didn’t line up properly and had to drill them out to fit. Then still couldn’t get the right adjustment. Pulled them off and fitted the MSLMS0510 and all good. 

[IronmanG]

I bought the 2nd ones in your list (MS73EVO) and they were dreadful. Bolt holes didn’t line up properly and had to drill them out to fit. Then still couldn’t get the right adjustment. Pulled them off and fitted the MSLMS0510 and all good.

Yes I currently have the camber only version and they were crap. Filed the holes so much

[KTS]

I've got the KAD ones - they're well made (which you'd expect for the money) and didn't give me a problems when fitting them 

 

the minisport ones do appear to be a very similar design to the KAD ones, but with thinner material on the main load bearing (vertical) faces.  The use of a separate  adjustment plate tacked on to the bracket looks to make it a little bulkier than the KAD one, and if i were to use them i'd be inclined to add some additional weld around the plate for peace of mind 

[IronmanG]

Ordered the KAD ones. I don't think its something that should be messed with and I don't want the hassle I had with the MS ones.

[I hate Brian]

I have the KAD ones they are good but rust quick paint not up to much............

[IronmanG]

I have the KAD ones they are good but rust quick paint not up to much............

Ok thanks.