19 replies to this topic

[soulslinga]

hello - i have a 1965 countryman (same as estate or traveller) original MK1. i'm a total newb about cars. 

got a new gas tank a year ago, and new fuel sender, gasket. 

Last week the gas gauge wasnt working, the mechanic fixed it this week by adding a ground to the sender.

he also advised me to empty the tank and add fuel stabilizer, since i dont drive the car all that often. 

After driving a bit, i noticed the engine would sputter occasionally , i believe it was higher gears like 3rd or 4th. 

 

when i got home i peaked in the tank and noticed the junk in there. like little black specks. see photo . maybe from all the recent gas tank related work. 

 

Thought maybe i should drain the fuel tank and apply a fuel filter ? Or just draining might be enough? 

 

But i need help with the location - in a countryman the tank is underneath the car, between the rear wheels, its hard to access. 

 

i did look into the fuel filter locations in a couple other posts : 

https://www.theminif...l=+fuel +filter

and

https://www.theminif...l=+fuel +filter

 

but i still have questions , mainly because i dont know which hose feeds gas into the engine, i dont know where the fuel pump is. need it spelled out if possible! 

 

 

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[timmy850]

I like having mine right before the carb. It means that you eliminate as many potential sources of contamination as possible.


I use a Ryco Z91, which is 1/4” connections and a 90 degree in/out to get the fuel from the hardline on the bulkhead to the carb

The fuel line on your car is circled in red. Can you also check to see if this rubber hose from the distributor vacuum advance (circled in blue) is connected to the barb on the carb body? If it’s not connected there will be a vacuum leak and you’ll also loose the vacuum advance, which helps with economy and part throttle power
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[mab01uk]

If your Mk1 Mini is original there should be an electric fuel pump underneath the rear of the car mounted on the rear subframe.

Modern fuel goes off over a few months if left in a little used classic car so fuel stabilizer is a good idea to improve easy starting of engine and running without any splutter.

Note also old fuel flexible pipes on classic cars often need to be replaced when used with modern fuels due to the higher levels of Ethanol, as is now found here in the UK.

 

You might also find the Mk1 Forum in link below useful for early Minis:-

http://mk1-forum.net/index.php

Edited by mab01uk, 06 February 2023 - 11:19 PM.

[soulslinga]

If your Mk1 Mini is original there should be an electric fuel pump underneath the rear of the car mounted on the rear subframe.

Modern fuel goes off over a few months if left in a little used classic car so fuel stabilizer is a good idea to improve easy starting of engine and running without any splutter.

Note also old fuel flexible pipes on classic cars often need to be replaced when used with modern fuels due to the higher levels of Ethanol, as is now found here in the UK.

 

You might also find the Mk1 Forum in link below useful for early Minis:-

http://mk1-forum.net/index.php

great resource thanks! and good idea i'll get a new hose on there will i'm at it. 

[soulslinga]

I like having mine right before the carb. It means that you eliminate as many potential sources of contamination as possible.


I use a Ryco Z91, which is 1/4” connections and a 90 degree in/out to get the fuel from the hardline on the bulkhead to the carb

The fuel line on your car is circled in red. Can you also check to see if this rubber hose from the distributor vacuum advance (circled in blue) is connected to the barb on the carb body? If it’s not connected there will be a vacuum leak and you’ll also loose the vacuum advance, which helps with economy and part throttle power
 

 

thanks for all this detail i really appreciate the help!! 

so if i understand you correctly i'm gonna place the filter where i put the red circle in the photo below. and i'll replace the braided fuel hose entirely, with 2x of these 2.5" braided fuel hoses. 

Do i need to take any special safety precautions removing or cutting that hose? Should i do it with an empty tank? 

 

brilliant idea on the right angle but that company is australia , i am in New Jersey, USA, so may use the fuel filter i have at hand, similar to this one if that would work. 

 

i believe my distributor vacuum advance is connected properly, it seems to run from the carb to that little bullet/nipple thing, then to the distributor cap, but i attached some photos because i dont know for sure! 

 

thanks again for all the great help, i've learned a lot. 

 

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[timmy850]

I couldn’t see from the first photo, but it looks like it loops around back to the carb ok

I suspect as your tank is a lot lower than a saloon that you can disconnect the line without much spillage.

Personally I use rubber hose there rather than braided as it’s a bit easier to see the condition of & trim to length.

[PACINO]

Do i need to take any special safety precautions removing or cutting that hose?

Before you start moving, replacing or cutting any fuel lines, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY.
Having said that; to do things right and avoid problems in the future, the ideal is to remove the deposit and clean it. If it's just dirt, then cleaning and fitting a filter and a new hose at the outlet of the tank... is enough. If what is inside the deposit is also rust, then it is worse. You should restore the tank inside or replace it with another. Aside from running the risk of clogging the metal tube that runs underneath, if **** gets into the carburetor, the engine will never run right. And you will also have to disassemble the carburettor to clean it... replace seals... change gaskets... etc.

Cheers
Luis

[Cooperman]

With a 1965 car, the fuel pump is an electric one fitted just after the tank. If you fitted a more modern electric pump, such as a FACET, it would normally come with a fuel filter which is placed just before the pump inlet.

I think the fuel filter is best just before the pump inlet as it prevents any DGS getting into the pump itself

On my 1964 car I have twin FACET pumps, with filters, under the boot floor and a pressure regulator in the engine bay just before the carbs.

[MiNiKiN]

With a 1965 car, the fuel pump is an electric one fitted just after the tank. If you fitted a more modern electric pump, such as a FACET, it would normally come with a fuel filter which is placed just before the pump inlet.

I think the fuel filter is best just before the pump inlet as it prevents any DGS getting into the pump itself

On my 1964 car I have twin FACET pumps, with filters, under the boot floor and a pressure regulator in the engine bay just before the carbs.

 

I second Cooperman's recommendation. Best place for a filter on an electric pump equipped car is BEFORE the pump.

 

thanks again for all the great help, i've learned a lot. 

 

IMG_0269.jpeg

 

 

 

 

Seeing your engine bay fuel hose: I strongly suggest you REPLACE all them hoses with new ethanol resistant ones BEFORE your next trip. Not worth loosing your car in a fire.

Edited by MiNiKiN, 09 February 2023 - 10:38 AM.

[soulslinga]

T

Edited by soulslinga, 09 February 2023 - 11:30 AM.

[soulslinga]

With a 1965 car, the fuel pump is an electric one fitted just after the tank. If you fitted a more modern electric pump, such as a FACET, it would normally come with a fuel filter which is placed just before the pump inlet.
I think the fuel filter is best just before the pump inlet as it prevents any DGS getting into the pump itself
On my 1964 car I have twin FACET pumps, with filters, under the boot floor and a pressure regulator in the engine bay just before the carbs.

 
I second Cooperman's recommendation. Best place for a filter on an electric pump equipped car is BEFORE the pump.
 

thanks again for all the great help, i've learned a lot. 
 
IMG_0269.jpeg

 
Seeing your engine bay fuel hose: I strongly suggest you REPLACE all them hoses with new ethanol resistant ones BEFORE your next trip. Not worth loosing your car in a fire.

Thanks this sounds important - I’m not sure which ones need replacing tho! Is it just the one I circled in red, in the photo above ?

[soulslinga]

With a 1965 car, the fuel pump is an electric one fitted just after the tank. If you fitted a more modern electric pump, such as a FACET, it would normally come with a fuel filter which is placed just before the pump inlet.
I think the fuel filter is best just before the pump inlet as it prevents any DGS getting into the pump itself
On my 1964 car I have twin FACET pumps, with filters, under the boot floor and a pressure regulator in the engine bay just before the carbs.

Thanks so much I’ll look into this - Do you know if the tank has to be dropped to fit something near the pump on a countryman/estate/traveler? If I have to lift the car and drop the gas tank I’m not sure I can handle that at all all.

[timmy850]

Mk1 tanks with electric pumps should have a coarse fuel filter inside the tank on the outlet pipe. This should prevent any material being sucked into the fuel pump that could damage it

If you put a regular fuel filter pre pump, you will need to check on it regularly to make sure it doesn’t clog up. If it clogs up and the pump runs dry it can burn out the pump.

SU pumps are good at “pushing” the fuel from the back of the car to the front, but not as good as “sucking” the fuel along a distance or against a blocked filter.

Facet pumps normally come with a pre pump filter, but often a pre pump filter will be a bit coarser than a post pump filter

Just like a lot of things on a mini, there are different ways to do the same job, so do your research, ask some questions and figure out which way you want to go.

[gazza82]

[quote name="timmy850" post="3738210" timestamp="1675972657"]SU pumps are good at “pushing” the fuel from the back of the car to the front, but not as good as “sucking” the fuel along a distance or against a blocked filter. [/quot]

There are "suck" versions that fit under the bonnet - the Morris Minor had one ... the old Minor, not the Mini version but that also had way more space in the engine bay!

Edited by gazza82, 10 February 2023 - 08:38 AM.

[MiNiKiN]

 

 

thanks again for all the great help, i've learned a lot. 
 
IMG_0269.jpeg

 
Seeing your engine bay fuel hose: I strongly suggest you REPLACE all them hoses with new ethanol resistant ones BEFORE your next trip. Not worth loosing your car in a fire.

Thanks this sounds important - I’m not sure which ones need replacing tho! Is it just the one I circled in red, in the photo above ?

 

There is the one circled in red and the ones around the fuel pump - either on the back of the engine if it's a mechanical fuel pump, or around the rear subframe on a car with electric fuel pump. And one more attached to the fuel outlet on the tank in the boot. If all is as originally fitted.
Best to check all along the fuel supply pipework.
And avoid buying budget fuel hose. - if there is a chance you should buy fuel hose to DIN 73379-2A standard. The 2A means resistand to E10. I don't know the equivalent BS or EN standard.
https://cohpro.com/cohline-fuel-hose/

Edited by MiNiKiN, 10 February 2023 - 10:26 AM.