Hey all,
Tonight I tried to run in the new cam in my rebuild engine. Swiftune recommended 8-10 minutes on around 2000 RPM and then to put some load on it.
I dont have a tacho so had to gauge myself. The single HS4 carb was set up by me, by tightening the adjusting jet all the way up to the top, then two full rotations down (as per mini DIY youtube vid).
I had the choke fully out for around a minute, then back half way in for around 4 minutes, then about 80% of the way for another minute or so.
This 7 minutes is the longest the car has ran since total strip and rebuild. Oil pressure was around 60. I checked temp about 6 minutes in and it was in the red. Exhaust manifold was not glowing hot but the engine was obviously roasting. Both exhaust and inlet manifold too hot to touch.
The top hose to the rad had gotten very warm and began "spitting" water from both the engine side and rad side, I dont think Id tightened the clips down enough and when the hose became warm and thus more flexible, water could get by. No spitting from the cap. I tightened the clips up after losing some water and that stopped the water spitting. I turned the car off after that. The block and head are hot to touch, the head extremely hot. The rad is extremely hot too as are the hoses - the water/coolant is very hot, I presume. The exhaust cooled down pretty quickly and did not seem to be "glowing" hot.
New water pump, new copper head gasket, new aftermarket rad, new hoses. Head is 12g295 with a bypass hose. Head has been in a machine shop and had a complete check over and new valves/seats, converted to unleaded etc. New thermostat, new temp gauge. Its almost as though the water/coolant had no effect on cooling the engine. Coolant was "blue" silicate stuff from Halfords. Rad was filled with 50/50 coolant and distilled water.
Why did it overheat so quickly?
Edited by Ricester, 03 April 2023 - 06:32 PM.
