7 replies to this topic

[MatthewsDad]

1968 998 Cooper with standard (non 'S') disc brakes.

Just checking, is there any choice beyond the Minispares GHK1018 wheel bearings? I have been given a spare set but just want to check choice / quality before fitting them. New to 'old' Coopers so please forgive the simple question. Not trying to reopen a wheel bearing debate!
Thanks

[croc7]

Timken.  More expensive but worth it.

[nicklouse]

Just fit genuine Timken bearings all around. They are the same dimensions. Just only torque the number given for your CVs.

[timmy850]

As mentioned above, you can replace the tapered Timken bearings in place of the standard ball bearings. They all have the same dimensions

If you have some older stock ball bearings and they are a decent brand then I’d give them a go

[Spider]

Originally, they were a Ball Roller, either RHP or M&R Brand. While Ball Rollers can still be found, I have noticed they are considerably more expensive than tapered rollers.

The Ball and Taper types are - as a set - dimensionaly the same and 100% interchangeable.

I'll just add that the cheap bearings will end up costing dearly.

[MatthewsDad]

Thanks everyone. Didn't appreciate that tapered timkens could also be used. Glad I asked as I have a spare set somewhere in the garage.

[DeadSquare]

I have always replace ball with roller.

 

The idea of a "ball race" is to replace a bush on a shaft, and therefore the small contact area of the ball in the race reduces friction.

 

The idea of a roller is to take thrust, along the length of the rollers, and the strain on a wheel bearing is the end force when cornering.

 

With their larger diameter wheels, most cars from the early years of motoring, had a large diameter taper bearing adjacent to the hub, with a much smaller taper on the outer end of the stub axle. 

 

The larger diameter wheels exerted more leverage on the bearings, but as there was no spacer between the inner races, any wear was taken up by removing a split-pin from the castle nut on the cross drilled stub axle, and tightening the nut a 1/12th (or more) turns and replacing the pin in the nearest hole through the stub axle.  Looser was better than too tight.

[weef]

"Timken" is a name synonomous for taper roller bearings much like "Hoover" was for carpet cleaners but remember if it is not stamped "Timken" then it is not Timken.