11 replies to this topic

[BaronVonchesto]

I'm trying to take my cylinder head off but the darn thing won't budge.

Rockers and all head studs have been removed, but it just won't budge. Have tried lifting it, pushing it, pulling it etc. and I've double checked there's nothing else fitted to it.

 

A quick search here reveals this has happened to others, and a few things to try include:

1) Getting a block of wood and hitting it real hard with a hammer,

2) turning the engine over with the spark plugs in, and using the compression to pop it off

3) lifting it by the studs.

 

 

Engine is in the car and I don't have an engine lift (not that I'm taking the whole engine out anyway).

 

I'm definitely going to try hitting it with a hammer, but I'm not the strongest fellow around, so I won't be surprised if that doesn't work.

That leaves option 2, the compression method. However as the engine is in the car, I won't be able to turn it over by hand.

 

Would it be a terribly stupid idea to use the starter motor to turn the engine over a bit? I'm thinking put the head studs back on along with the nuts, but just finger tight. Would that work, or lead to some disaster?

[bpirie1000]

Buy a bigger hammer....

[DeadSquare]

Does it have a water pump by-pass hose ?

 

At a previous removal / replacement, someone may have used a hard setting gasket cement, all over the gasket.  ( The head gasket shouldn't need gasket cement, but if you do have to use it, to get out of trouble, use non setting, like Hylomar, just round the bores).

 

Some Ford Formula 3 engines used to somehow get a bolt into the water-ways in the head, and by removing a core plug in the block, bolt the head on, as an extra stud.   Fooled some quite experienced engineers who ruined some expensive engines by trying to drive a chisel between head and block.

 

I don't think that you would do much harm, with 4 head studs at the corners if you turned the engine over on the starter with the plugs in, ----  BUT   ---  DON'T leave more than a 1 MM clearance between the nuts and the head as the rockers can jump out of the pushrods.

[BaronVonchesto]

Does it have a water pump by-pass hose ?

 

At a previous removal / replacement, someone may have used a hard setting gasket cement, all over the gasket.  ( The head gasket shouldn't need gasket cement, but if you do have to use it, to get out of trouble, use non setting, like Hylomar, just round the bores).

 

Some Ford Formula 3 engines used to somehow get a bolt into the water-ways in the head, and by removing a core plug in the block, bolt the head on, as an extra stud.   Fooled some quite experienced engineers who ruined some expensive engines by trying to drive a chisel between head and block.

 

I don't think that you would do much harm, with 4 head studs at the corners if you turned the engine over on the starter with the plugs in, ----  BUT   ---  DON'T leave more than a 1 MM clearance between the nuts and the head as the rockers can jump out of the pushrods.

 

no water pump bypass.

I believe permatex copper head gasket spray was used on the head gasket.

 

In order for the compression method to work, wouldn't I have to do it without the rockers on? Then again I've removed the push rods, so theres no way for the rockers to engage the valves. Should I take out the cam followers too?

[DeadSquare]

In order for the compression method to work, wouldn't I have to do it without the rockers on? Then again I've removed the push rods, so theres no way for the rockers to engage the valves. Should I take out the cam followers too?

 

How are you going to get air into the cylinder, to compress, if the valve are closed ?

[DeadSquare]

DON'T   turn the engine over without the pushrods and rockers.    If the cam flicks a cam follower into the valve chest, it can be a lot of hassle getting it back into the block.

[Icey]

DON'T turn the engine over without the pushrods and rockers. If the cam flicks a cam follower into the valve chest, it can be a lot of hassle getting it back into the block.

Unless it’s a 998 then it’s not such a big deal.

[BaronVonchesto]

In order for the compression method to work, wouldn't I have to do it without the rockers on? Then again I've removed the push rods, so theres no way for the rockers to engage the valves. Should I take out the cam followers too?

 

How are you going to get air into the cylinder, to compress, if the valve are closed ?

i thought it'd be compressing just the air thats already in the cylinder. but what you say makes a lot of sense!

Time to refit the rockers then

[GraemeC]

Remove the centre front stud with the double nut method.
This stud is also a locating dowel and has a tighter hole through the head - it’s not uncommon for the head to stick here due to rust and crud build up.

[Lucas1988]

i tend to find the rubber mallet method works well, just giving it a hard shock tends get it loose, is there no one local who can give you a hand as i know there are quite a few minis in your neck of the woods.

[BaronVonchesto]

got the head off! used the compression method. took a while as every 2 or 3 turns i had to loosen the nuts on the studs and readjust the clearances on the rockers, but using the starter motor to crank the engine did the trick.

 

turns out the victor reinz gasket is really, REALLY sticky! Its left a lot of sticky residue on both the block and head faces.

[Steve220]

Thin bit of wood and a lump hammer.