12 replies to this topic

[slimdip]

Would not restart during last nights shake down. Getting no spark from the coil to the distributor . Not sure if the coil has given up or the luminition electric ignition inside the distributor has fried. Any thoughts… ?
During the drive I noticed when the side or main lights are switched on the indicators on the dash come on and the dials start playing up. I think not linked…Ann other issue I guess? Any diag checks I can do? All fuses look good. Engine turns and there is fuel.
I’ll buy a new coil and a new electronic ignition…just don’t want to fry those in case there is another issue.
It’s a 998cc, ‘88.
Thanks!

Edited by slimdip, 21 May 2023 - 06:57 AM.

[andyapanel]

As my Lumenition magnetronic died, the tachometer was swinging all over the place.
Sounds more like the coil
Having fitted a Lumenition coil, I was disappointed it did not last too long(5000 miles).The standard Lucas coil seems more reliable.
I had an Optronic in a kit car that failed twice., just cutting out.
I would put a new coil on first
You can check the resistances, but I have found they can vary

[Steam]

You can manually fire the coil to see if it gives a spark.

[Ethel]

Old style contact breakers (points) generate a spark when they open. Stopping the current causes the magnetic field in the coil to collapse and the surge in voltage in the secondary winding is enough to jump the sparkplug gap. You can achieve the same by tapping a bit of wire from the coil's -ve spade terminal against an earth. It won't be a thorough test as you won't manage 1000s of rpm, but it will show up a totally dead coil.

 

 

...if there's another path to earth off the spade current will still flow, so remove any other connections before condemning the coil.

[slimdip]

You can manually fire the coil to see if it gives a spark.

Good point will try that… seeing 4ohms across the primary.

[imack]

I killed my 30 year old Lumenition Optronic module by inadvertently connecting it up to the coil backwards!!!!

[slimdip]

Old style contact breakers (points) generate a spark when they open. Stopping the current causes the magnetic field in the coil to collapse and the surge in voltage in the secondary winding is enough to jump the sparkplug gap. You can achieve the same by tapping a bit of wire from the coil's -ve spade terminal against an earth. It won't be a thorough test as you won't manage 1000s of rpm, but it will show up a totally dead coil.


...if there's another path to earth off the spade current will still flow, so remove any other connections before condemning the coil.

Thanks, did this and confirmed the coil is OK. I guess it’s a new Luminition magnetronic sender.

[timmy850]

You can manually fire the coil to see if it gives a spark.

Good point will try that… seeing 4ohms across the primary.

4 ohms is very high for a normal coil. Does the Lumenition kit come with any instructions or compatible coil suggestions?

[r.tec]

Many moons ago (very many) I installed a Lumenition Optronic Performance with the coil included in my (not for the road) Mini. After a few hours of running the engine stopped with no spark whatsoever. I called the German respresentative of Lumenition at that time, a certain Bob Stewart, who took all the way to my garage to investigate what happened. After some time he asked me what ignition leads I use. I told him that they were made by myself with KLG plug caps with zero resistance. He then did not hesitate to tell me that this was the fault. The Optronic Performance needs at least 5 kOhm resistance in the ignition leads preferably in the cap. At that time this was not mentioned in the fitting instructions, I suppose it is now. I made new leads with the appropriate resistance and they run up to this day. Fortunately Bob exchanged the faulty unit for another one.

 

Another note taking care of: the Optronic Performance needs a coil with around 0.7 to 0.8 Ohm in the primarycoil (between + and - or connection 15 and 1). Fitting for example a Lucas DLB105 (3+Ohm) gives a very week spark that will reduce the power extraordinarily.

 

NB: on the road it is not legal to use unsurpressed leads as they disturb radio and TV signals and perhaps even mobile phone communication.

[slimdip]

Case closed!
The luminition magnetronic was fried. Purchased a new cheaper Powerspark brand from eBay.
https://www.ebay.co....emis&media=COPY

The car fired up immediately and ran smoothly once I sorted out the timing. The coil was fine but ran a dedicated 12v line from the fuse box as it not a ballasted type Coil.
Hope this helps for anyone who has/ will have a similar issue

Edited by slimdip, 30 May 2023 - 08:03 PM.

[JamesW83]

Reading this and trying to make sense of a few things. I fitted a Powerspark electronic ignition kit. I now have trouble starting. Once it starts, it's fine, but after quite a lot of cranking. Powerspark kits read Powerspark Electronic Ignition Kits are designed to work with a coil resistance above 1.5 ohms, typically 3.0 ohms.

 

​I have a 1.5ohm coil, the original Lucas coil factory fitted I assume - '87 998cc. It's ballasted, and I think I've got my head around that concept now. Can I just upgrade my coil to a 3ohm one, or is it not as simple as that? I've tried running a switched live from fuse box to + side of ignition module and it's not doing anything.

 

Thanks!

[JamesW83]

Reading on at https://blog.simonbb...ance-and-coils/ I see that simply using a 3ohm coil won't resolve my issue. Am i right in saying I can remove the pink ballast wire attached to +ve of the coil and wire straight to the fuse box? Any recommendation as to where? Are the any safety concerns to be weary of doing this i.e. frying the ignition? 

[timmy850]

You’ll need to wire it to get 12V only when the ignition switch is turned on. You should be able to find a wire like this with a multimeter. The original pink wire should come from a switched 12v source if you can trace that back