16 replies to this topic

[JonnyAlpha]

Seem to be a lot of posts about temp senders lately, must be the hot weather 

Here's another one.

 

I have the standard temp sender that screws into the cylinder head, I also have a mechanical temp sender and gauge that I have installed into the dash, however the mechanical sender is too long for the hole in the cylinder head.

 

So I have been advised that, if I want to install the mechanical gauge, I should be able to get it to fit by using a male / female adaptor (or two). 

I would however also like to keep the stock gauge working in the instrument cluster.

 

So a couple of questions.

 

1. What thread is the temp sender in the cylinder head? Is it 5/8" UNF, BSP or BSPT?

 

2. If fitting the mechanical, would the longer end cause any blockages? 

 

3. What options are there for having two gauges? Is there an adaptor like there is for two oil pressure gauges?

 

 

Couple of pics for info:

 

Here's the mechanical sender unit:

 

 

And here it is inserted as far as it will go:

 

 

Mechanical Gauge fitted:

 

 

 

 

[nicklouse]

Yes you need an adaptor to use the mechanical. No it does not cause any blockages.

 

why run another that is likely to be less accurate. Where would you want to put the sender?

[JonnyAlpha]

Yes you need an adaptor to use the mechanical. No it does not cause any blockages.

 

why run another that is likely to be less accurate. Where would you want to put the sender?

 

I like the mechanical version as you can see the actual temperature, rather that H N C (although they all mean the same), but I also have a hole in my dash, where I have put the mechanical gauge (was an Ammeter which was a waste of time).

 

I have seen some inline adaptors, which could be installed in the heater hose take off? 

 

There does not seem to be any T adaptors like the ones for the oil gauge, so I may make one?

 

Just need a 5/8" UNF Tap and Die? If that is the correct thread?

[weef]

With the vapour pressure type gauge, mechanical type, the sensor is usually of the total immersion design which means it has to be inserted fully in the cylinder head to achieve this. Although I have no doubt the gauge will give some temperaure reading if it is in some sort of adaptor I do not know how accurate it will be, simillarly I would presume the electrical type sensor will also be a total immersion design.

If you have a hole in your dash and do not like an ammeter why not fit a voltage meter, a more useful indication of battery condition.

[nicklouse]

 

Yes you need an adaptor to use the mechanical. No it does not cause any blockages.

 

why run another that is likely to be less accurate. Where would you want to put the sender?

 

 

Just need a 5/8" UNF Tap and Die? If that is the correct thread?

 

If you are making an adaptor. But they are readily available. And yes you won’t find any “splitters” for the temp as people don’t tend to run two gauges or a gauge and warning lamp like they do on the oil system.

Yes you could plumb in to anywhere you want but where do you want to plum it in? Most places on a standard system are either needed for flow or give you pointless info.

thermostatic switches in the coolant in or out have value for switching on fans and pumps.

[gazza82]

There are thermostat housings with the threaded hole to fit a mechanical temp sender. Mine came off a 998cc Riley Elf.

[sonscar]

There seems to be a lot of consternation caused by temperature gauges?Be wild and just drive it.Steve..

[postve]

So guys which is better, fully emerged electric or mechanical - no adapters?

[lordcakes]

To fit that mechanical gauge sender bulb you need a TE5 adapter. You can't get a splitter to run both gauges from the single hole. Options for 2 temperature gauges would be to get a Thermostat housing with the sender hole in it, install a sleeve in the top radiator hose with a tapped hole for the sender or fit a sender in the bottom of the radiator in place of the fan switch (if you have a radiator with that hole and don't have the fan)

Personal opinion, I always had accuracy issues with the electric gauges and have run a mechanical gauge for a number of years. It is accurate to with in 2 degrees and operates when the ignition is off (you can see how much heat is soaking into the system when the engine is powered off if desired).

[postve]

Thx man and I found the electric operate as well after you shut down as I just put the key in #2 position

[JonnyAlpha]

To fit that mechanical gauge sender bulb you need a TE5 adapter. You can't get a splitter to run both gauges from the single hole. Options for 2 temperature gauges would be to get a Thermostat housing with the sender hole in it, install a sleeve in the top radiator hose with a tapped hole for the sender or fit a sender in the bottom of the radiator in place of the fan switch (if you have a radiator with that hole and don't have the fan)

Personal opinion, I always had accuracy issues with the electric gauges and have run a mechanical gauge for a number of years. It is accurate to with in 2 degrees and operates when the ignition is off (you can see how much heat is soaking into the system when the engine is powered off if desired).

I've just received 2 x TE5s in the mail, which will allow me to connect the mechanical gauge to the cyl head. Can you link an adaptor, I can't seem to find any with the 5/8" UNF as per the TE5 if I want to run both gauges.

[PoolGuy]

Have a te5 soldered into the top of the rad?

[DeadSquare]

I have a Vapour Pressure / Mechanical gauge and thermostat housing, that I moved from car to car each time I moved the supercharger, because it read up to 120 degrees and the extra heat generated by supercharging often raised the water temperature well over 100

 

With the demise of my old Shorrock, I thought that it might be interesting to know the oil temperature, but I haven't been able to decide whether I should take the sump temperature, the compressed temperature before the oil cooler or the cooled oil temperature, any of which will need the adapter that is firmly corroded into the thermostat housing.

[postve]

I have a Vapour Pressure / Mechanical gauge and thermostat housing, that I moved from car to car each time I moved the supercharger, because it read up to 120 degrees and the extra heat generated by supercharging often raised the water temperature well over 100

With the demise of my old Shorrock, I thought that it might be interesting to know the oil temperature, but I haven't been able to decide whether I should take the sump temperature, the compressed temperature before the oil cooler or the cooled oil temperature, any of which will need the adapter that is firmly corroded into the thermostat housing.

dead - so what did you decide on as I am leaning towards putting temp sensor at sump.

[DeadSquare]

Actually, I should have made that post a year ago, not last month, because when I studied it, there wasn't anyway to easily insert the sender, either before or after the oil cooler, so I sliced the top of my adapter off the thermostat housing and brazed it to the sump plug which had just enough metal to let me bore it out and insert the sender.

 

It meant loosing the Magnet, but I drilled and epoxy'd that to the plate on the outside of the gearbox where the oil pick-up bolts inside, -------------------  only to find that the capillary tube would not reach round the clutch cover.

Edited by DeadSquare, 06 July 2023 - 12:56 PM.