6 replies to this topic

[alpder]

This is a 1275 A+, and I have no knowledge of its past though when torn-down it was pretty fair internally.

 

I've had the block newly skimmed (to raise CR, not because of any fault), and a few new valve-guides in the head. By a reputable experienced engineer.

 

Rebuilt out-of-the-car with a new TAM1521 (Bk450) gasket from MiniSpares. Torqued-up per the book. Dropped into the car, where it has sat for 3 months. This engine has not been started since it was assembled.

 

Added coolant today. And I have a water leak right off the bat from the gasket - just under the heater take-off. (No, it's not the heater take-off that's leaking, sadly.) And this is without any pressure in the system! A couple of drops per hour.

 

I've tried the loosen-half-a-turn-in-order-and-retorque on the bolts (normally you'd do it after a few miles, but hey, it's worth a stab). No change.

 

Break it to me gently...

 

 Gasket.jpg   59.04K   3 downloads

Edited by alpder, 08 June 2023 - 10:48 AM.

[timmy850]

My suggestion with a new gasket is:
Start up dry (no coolant) and run for 30 seconds to a minute and then allow to cool
Add plain water and run up to temp, then do retorque on head studs
Then drain and add coolant

Coolant is very thin and will seep between the gaskets very easily

[DeadSquare]

Have you removed number four spark plug to see if any water is also getting into the cylinder ?

 

I'm concerned that you had your block "skimmed" to raise the compression ratio.  This is unusual.  Normally a block is only "faced" ( surfaced ), ie  removing anything distorted  (raised ) perhaps after severe overheating, removing .005" or .010".

 

The only way to check if your block is OK, is to have it put on a surface grinder and see in .001"  increments, if material is removed evenly across the whole surface.

 

 

 

Meanwhile:-

 

These are just a few  'Get you home'  thoughts,  that can sometimes  'keep you going'.

 

1)  Give the 3 adjacent head studs an extra 10lbs torque.

 

2)  "Bar's Leaks Head Gasket Fix", (gurgle it).

 

3)  Replace the head gasket, using Hylomar gasket sealer on the block and the head.

 

4)  Buy the biggest header/expansion tank that will fit, and carry a Jerry can of water.

Edited by DeadSquare, 08 June 2023 - 01:15 PM.

[Steve220]

There is a proper break in procedure for the BK450. Run it for a minute without coolant, allow to cool. Fill up with coolant, run a full heat cycle, allow to cool, re-torque. Coolant has smaller molecules than water, so will find the path of least resistance very quickly until the glue on the gasket melts and cools to seal it properly.

[alpder]

There is a proper break in procedure for the BK450. Run it for a minute without coolant, allow to cool. Fill up with coolant, run a full heat cycle, allow to cool, re-torque. Coolant has smaller molecules than water, so will find the path of least resistance very quickly until the glue on the gasket melts and cools to seal it properly.

Thank you. Sure don't remember the gasket coming with any instructions... and you'd think it would given the unusual break-in procedure. Anyway, I'll drain, leave it to dry (otherwise the little water left is going to turn to steam and make things worse) and try the procedure. If that fails, then it's head off and new gasket time.

Overall... it seems that things are not (yet) as bad as I'd thought they'd be.

Thanks all.

[PoolGuy]

 

My suggestion with a new gasket is:
Start up dry (no coolant) and run for 30 seconds to a minute and then allow to cool
Add plain water and run up to temp, then do retorque on head studs
Then drain and add coolant

Coolant is very thin and will seep between the gaskets very easily

Agreed, plain water until the head is torqued for the second time is very important IMO.

Edited by PoolGuy, 08 June 2023 - 01:39 PM.

[sonscar]

Did you countersink the head bolt holes after the block was skimmed?I personally would remove the head and check for this and foreign material trapped and I am particularly lax and idle normally.Steve..