5 replies to this topic

[Speedymad]

Refitted my r/h gearbox steady bar a few weeks ago and have noticed that both the bolts that hold the bracket in place are loose.  Took one out and definitely threaded as the bolt came out with some of the thread.  

I have just been out and a standard flywheel housing bolt will fit so I can make a temporary fix. 

 

would this be able to be fixed using a helicoil? 
 

I have a spare flywheel housing bolt which I can get plenty of turns on so will add this for the time being.  
 

hoping this won’t be an engine out job and can be fixed in place. 
 

im wondering if the bolts weren’t long enough and the movement of the engine has caused them to pull out.  
 

being the lower two bolts I’m worried about oil leaks. 

 

any thoughts or suggestions on a fix

[nicklouse]

Yes you maybe able to rescue it with a Helicoil. 
 

ps use studs. Or suitably longer bolts.

 

and you de threaded it not threaded it.

[Speedymad]

Yes you maybe able to rescue it with a Helicoil. 
 

ps use studs. Or suitably longer bolts.

 

and you de threaded it not threaded it.

I’ve been looking at mini spares and the longer bolts are no longer available but a stud is as suggested.  Will get some ordered.  
 

I am wondering whether to omit the lower bar for the time being and try a couple of standard bolts for the time being.  

Fingers crossed can be saved. 
 

[mad4classics]

Helicoils are a good strong repair; they do however need to be put in straight and true which is often tricky with the engine in situ.
I would be looking at a 2D length at least - I measure a depth of .93 to .94 of a couple of spare castings.
Another issue is, without taking the engine out, you'll end up threading the transfer casing, as the od of the helicoil tap is quite large - certainly bigger than the clearance hole in the transfer casing!
I would also consider using the rear facing kit although I know there'll be those who disagree.

Edited by mad4classics, 17 June 2023 - 11:43 AM.

[Speedymad]

Helicoils are a good strong repair; they do however need to be put in straight and true which is often tricky with the engine in situ.
I would be looking at a 2D length at least - I measure a depth of .93 to .94 of a couple of spare castings.
Another issue is, without taking the engine out, you'll end up threading the transfer casing, as the od of the helicoil tap is quite large - certainly bigger than the clearance hole in the transfer casing!
I would also consider using the rear facing kit although I know there'll be those who disagree.

I will take a look at the rear kit.  
 

I took a trip to mini spares as after seeing how much thread was left there was a decent amount.  Garry suggested a stud that would be good for just the transfer casing.  Stud has done in nicely and I am able to get a decent leverage on the nut with spring washer.  
 

not putting the steady on as don’t want to stress the threads.  

[Speedymad]

Yes you maybe able to rescue it with a Helicoil. 
 

ps use studs. Or suitably longer bolts.

 

and you de threaded it not threaded it.

stud has worked well, thank you.