8 replies to this topic

[sjb2oak]

Hi all,

 

I'm looking for some advice on my Torque convertor...

 

quick backround on the situation before I begin.

 

Bought a JDM auto spi mini. Engine and auto box were knackered. Had a quick look myself and removed the torque convertor in the process (may have also removed all 6 bolts at once!!!). Decided autos are basically magic and sent the engine gearbox and convertor to a professional to get reconditioned and rebuilt. Got engine back fitted everthing back together. Didn't start.... Checked all the usual suspects, it's got fuel, spark, and TDC on number one dizzy rotor points at number one and number 4 valves are rocking. Stuck a timing light on it and its sparking at completely the wrong time... I then decided the problem might be the crank position sensor. But more specifically the ring its reading. I think it might be on in the wrong rotation.

 

So my questions are;

 

Can the crank position ring be in the wrong orientation?

 

Does it even come off?

[Spherix]

Did the person who rebuilt it not test it?

[68+86auto]

I haven't worked on an spi one but I would guess the ring could be in the wrong position. Is the distributor and its leads in the correct spot?

[xrocketengineer]

Since this a SPI with a distributor, switch the spark plug leads 180 degrees around to see if it starts.

[nicklouse]

Has the same torque converter been refitted?

 

unlikely as normally when all 6 bolts have been removed it is scrap.

 

has a new SPI set up been fitted or has a non SPi torque converter been fitted.

[sjb2oak]

Hi all, sorry I haven't been able to answer any of these for the past few days, it's been a busy week!

 

I don't think the engine ever got fully tested after it was reconditioned. I originally sent the whole unit minus the torque convertor (because I thought I had screwed it up by removing all the bolts) to a gearbox repairer. He said to send the torque convertor along to, because he should be able to sort it out. The engine needed work so that was sent of to an engine specialist while he worked on the auto box and torque convertor. Then all the parts were reunited and I received a shiny new engine.

As far as I can tell (after checking countless times) the distributor and leads are all in the right places.

I have a feeling that the timing is 120 degrees out after looking at some pictures of the torque convertor, and I've tried to confirm this by placing a mark 120 degrees out from the timing notch on the crank pulley and testing it with a timing light.

And it seemed to be about 120 degrees out...

 

 

 

From looking at this picture, when I slapped it back together to send it to the gearbox rebuilder, I have a feeling I may have put the crank sensor ring on in the wrong rotation and I think this might be my issue...

Edited by sjb2oak, 06 July 2023 - 09:26 AM.

[nicklouse]

Just to be clear. The dizzy on the SPI is not one. The trigger system is the flywheel. The dizzy just points the spark at a plug lead.

 

so you can rotate it to where it is needed. But if the torque converter is not correct then you will have no spark to play with.

[sjb2oak]

That's my understanding of it, The ECU is doing all the spark timing base of the information it gets from the crank sensor which is picking up a signal off the ring on the front of the torque convertor, which looks like it could be put on in 3 positions, which would make it 120 degrees out??

[FlyingScot]

I think all the clues to your problem are there.... either the rebuilder managed to save your original torque convertor (which from my own understanding is unlikely) or they used another one and fitted the ring on. It looks like the ring is either held by the roll pins or just the bolts in either case either the ring wasn't in the right place on reassembly.

 

Your choices from my viewpoint are -

1) Confirm the timing (which it looks like you have) and ask the gearbox rebuilder to move the ring

2) Go for a set up with a separate crank sensor and engine pulley wheel (as used by people who run injection on minis that are no OEM) and wire this in place of the OEM sensor

 

FS