14 replies to this topic

[Speedymad]

I previously posted my problems with the standard r/h lower mount that attached to the front of the subframe, two short a bolt was used and the movement removed some of the thread in the gearbox.  I have replaced with a stud and used a nut/spring washer and all looks good.

 

I am looking to either fit the Minis Spares MSSK to both sides or I am contemplating the MED solid mounts.

 

For those that have fitted the lower steadies that go to the back of the subframe have you used longer bolts/studs where the bracket attaches to the speedo housing or clutch flywheel housing?  Before I commit I don't the same issue as before and have too short a bolt being pulled out of the gearbox. 

 

I am worried that the steady will put further pressure on the stud that I had issues with, so could I just use the l/h one with the standard upper r/h.  I am sure I read you would not want to due to the engine possibly twisting?

 

Many thanks.

[KTS]

i've used the standard bolts;  the bracket is only a couple of mm thick so don't think it'll be an issue

[Speedymad]

i've used the standard bolts;  the bracket is only a couple of mm thick so don't think it'll be an issue

 

Thank you very much.

 

The bracket that mounted to the box for the front facing mount was quite thick and I think this was not taken into consideration and caused the issue.

[mad4classics]

I've got both L/H and R/H MSSK kits fitted and used 1/8" longer bolts where they passed through the gearbox brackets.

[nicklouse]

I previously posted my problems with the standard r/h lower mount that attached to the front of the subframe, two short a bolt was used and the movement removed some of the thread in the gearbox.  I have replaced with a stud and used a nut/spring washer and all looks good.

 

I am looking to either fit the Minis Spares MSSK to both sides or I am contemplating the MED solid mounts.

 

For those that have fitted the lower steadies that go to the back of the subframe have you used longer bolts/studs where the bracket attaches to the speedo housing or clutch flywheel housing?  Before I commit I don't the same issue as before and have too short a bolt being pulled out of the gearbox. 

 

I am worried that the steady will put further pressure on the stud that I had issues with, so could I just use the l/h one with the standard upper r/h.  I am sure I read you would not want to due to the engine possibly twisting?

 

Many thanks.

Use studs and nuts. Bolts will rip out. You need full thread engagement. Also note they don’t really do much as they are that close to the pivot point. An additional stabilizer on the thermostat side should be the second thing to do. The first is make sure the standard stabilizer is in good condition. That should stop the rocking. The lower stabilizers are more for stopping the mounts shearing by keeping the bottom in place.

[Speedymad]

 

I previously posted my problems with the standard r/h lower mount that attached to the front of the subframe, two short a bolt was used and the movement removed some of the thread in the gearbox.  I have replaced with a stud and used a nut/spring washer and all looks good.

 

I am looking to either fit the Minis Spares MSSK to both sides or I am contemplating the MED solid mounts.

 

For those that have fitted the lower steadies that go to the back of the subframe have you used longer bolts/studs where the bracket attaches to the speedo housing or clutch flywheel housing?  Before I commit I don't the same issue as before and have too short a bolt being pulled out of the gearbox. 

 

I am worried that the steady will put further pressure on the stud that I had issues with, so could I just use the l/h one with the standard upper r/h.  I am sure I read you would not want to due to the engine possibly twisting?

 

Many thanks.

Use studs and nuts. Bolts will rip out. You need full thread engagement. Also note they don’t really do much as they are that close to the pivot point. An additional stabilizer on the thermostat side should be the second thing to do. The first is make sure the standard stabilizer is in good condition. That should stop the rocking. The lower stabilizers are more for stopping the mounts shearing by keeping the bottom in place.

 

 

Thanks Nick, rock is not too bad to be honest with just the standard bar and poly bushes.  When I spoke to MED they really rated the lower mounts along side a single top mount.

 

When I had to fix the previous issue I bought longer studs with nuts and washers, will do the same.

 

I have see from previous threads you rate the DSN stabilisers?

Edited by Speedymad, 24 July 2023 - 08:13 PM.

[Speedymad]

I've got both L/H and R/H MSSK kits fitted and used 1/8" longer bolts where they passed through the gearbox brackets.

 

Thanks for that I may go with recommendation to use a stud rather than a bolt, but will look slightly longer studs.

[nicklouse]

 

 

I previously posted my problems with the standard r/h lower mount that attached to the front of the subframe, two short a bolt was used and the movement removed some of the thread in the gearbox.  I have replaced with a stud and used a nut/spring washer and all looks good.

 

I am looking to either fit the Minis Spares MSSK to both sides or I am contemplating the MED solid mounts.

 

For those that have fitted the lower steadies that go to the back of the subframe have you used longer bolts/studs where the bracket attaches to the speedo housing or clutch flywheel housing?  Before I commit I don't the same issue as before and have too short a bolt being pulled out of the gearbox. 

 

I am worried that the steady will put further pressure on the stud that I had issues with, so could I just use the l/h one with the standard upper r/h.  I am sure I read you would not want to due to the engine possibly twisting?

 

Many thanks.

Use studs and nuts. Bolts will rip out. You need full thread engagement. Also note they don’t really do much as they are that close to the pivot point. An additional stabilizer on the thermostat side should be the second thing to do. The first is make sure the standard stabilizer is in good condition. That should stop the rocking. The lower stabilizers are more for stopping the mounts shearing by keeping the bottom in place.

 

 

Thanks Nick, rock is not too bad to be honest with just the standard bar and poly bushes.  When I spoke to MED they really rated the lower mounts along side a single top mount.

 

When I had to fix the previous issue I bought longer studs with nuts and washers, will do the same.

 

I have see from previous threads you rate the DSN stabilisers?

 

Mmmm a seller recommends something they sell.

 

have a watch. Note this has no head or upper stabilizers fitted.

rose joints one end and Polly mounts held in double sheer so the bolts can’t move.

https://youtu.be/c0vDblRHWdA

should add this was just a dummy build with dummy parts hence the bolts.

Edited by nicklouse, 24 July 2023 - 08:51 PM.

[Speedymad]

 

 

 

I previously posted my problems with the standard r/h lower mount that attached to the front of the subframe, two short a bolt was used and the movement removed some of the thread in the gearbox.  I have replaced with a stud and used a nut/spring washer and all looks good.

 

I am looking to either fit the Minis Spares MSSK to both sides or I am contemplating the MED solid mounts.

 

For those that have fitted the lower steadies that go to the back of the subframe have you used longer bolts/studs where the bracket attaches to the speedo housing or clutch flywheel housing?  Before I commit I don't the same issue as before and have too short a bolt being pulled out of the gearbox. 

 

I am worried that the steady will put further pressure on the stud that I had issues with, so could I just use the l/h one with the standard upper r/h.  I am sure I read you would not want to due to the engine possibly twisting?

 

Many thanks.

Use studs and nuts. Bolts will rip out. You need full thread engagement. Also note they don’t really do much as they are that close to the pivot point. An additional stabilizer on the thermostat side should be the second thing to do. The first is make sure the standard stabilizer is in good condition. That should stop the rocking. The lower stabilizers are more for stopping the mounts shearing by keeping the bottom in place.

 

 

Thanks Nick, rock is not too bad to be honest with just the standard bar and poly bushes.  When I spoke to MED they really rated the lower mounts along side a single top mount.

 

When I had to fix the previous issue I bought longer studs with nuts and washers, will do the same.

 

I have see from previous threads you rate the DSN stabilisers?

 

Mmmm a seller recommends something they sell.

 

have a watch. Note this has no head or upper stabilizers fitted.

rose joints one end and Polly mounts held in double sheer so the bolts can’t move.

https://youtu.be/c0vDblRHWdA

should add this was just a dummy build with dummy parts hence the bolts.

 

yikes!
 

lots of movement at the rose joint end!

[nicklouse]

 

 

 

 

I previously posted my problems with the standard r/h lower mount that attached to the front of the subframe, two short a bolt was used and the movement removed some of the thread in the gearbox.  I have replaced with a stud and used a nut/spring washer and all looks good.

 

I am looking to either fit the Minis Spares MSSK to both sides or I am contemplating the MED solid mounts.

 

For those that have fitted the lower steadies that go to the back of the subframe have you used longer bolts/studs where the bracket attaches to the speedo housing or clutch flywheel housing?  Before I commit I don't the same issue as before and have too short a bolt being pulled out of the gearbox. 

 

I am worried that the steady will put further pressure on the stud that I had issues with, so could I just use the l/h one with the standard upper r/h.  I am sure I read you would not want to due to the engine possibly twisting?

 

Many thanks.

Use studs and nuts. Bolts will rip out. You need full thread engagement. Also note they don’t really do much as they are that close to the pivot point. An additional stabilizer on the thermostat side should be the second thing to do. The first is make sure the standard stabilizer is in good condition. That should stop the rocking. The lower stabilizers are more for stopping the mounts shearing by keeping the bottom in place.

 

 

Thanks Nick, rock is not too bad to be honest with just the standard bar and poly bushes.  When I spoke to MED they really rated the lower mounts along side a single top mount.

 

When I had to fix the previous issue I bought longer studs with nuts and washers, will do the same.

 

I have see from previous threads you rate the DSN stabilisers?

 

Mmmm a seller recommends something they sell.

 

have a watch. Note this has no head or upper stabilizers fitted.

rose joints one end and Polly mounts held in double sheer so the bolts can’t move.

https://youtu.be/c0vDblRHWdA

should add this was just a dummy build with dummy parts hence the bolts.

 

yikes!
 

lots of movement at the rose joint end!

 

Like I said. Too close to the pivot to do anything about rotation. Top stabilizers are more important.

Edited by nicklouse, 24 July 2023 - 09:17 PM.

[sonscar]

Just a thought but someone more clever than me could design a better wider engine mount for the clutch end better able to resist twist?Steve..

[Steve220]

don't solid mount the bottom supports. It'll tranfer the load laterally through the engine mounts and potentially tear them. Go poly. A thermostat engine steady in addition to the standard one really helps. I run the KAD poly lower and DSN upper - on the dyno there was barely any engine movement.

[Speedymad]

don't solid mount the bottom supports. It'll tranfer the load laterally through the engine mounts and potentially tear them. Go poly. A thermostat engine steady in addition to the standard one really helps. I run the KAD poly lower and DSN upper - on the dyno there was barely any engine movement.

 

I am looking at the DSN but not sure if I could run one.  I run the sandwich plate but with the outlet for the inline heater, the DSN version does have the heater pipe outlet.  I am sure the standard  thermostat housing would sit too high for the bulkhead attachment.

[Steve220]

don't solid mount the bottom supports. It'll tranfer the load laterally through the engine mounts and potentially tear them. Go poly. A thermostat engine steady in addition to the standard one really helps. I run the KAD poly lower and DSN upper - on the dyno there was barely any engine movement.

I am looking at the DSN but not sure if I could run one. I run the sandwich plate but with the outlet for the inline heater, the DSN version does have the heater pipe outlet. I am sure the standard thermostat housing would sit too high for the bulkhead attachment.

I run one on my MPi, works fine. You can get the sandwich plate with or without the heater outlet on it.

https://i.imgur.com/LhsZSbX.jpeg

Edited by Steve220, 25 July 2023 - 06:21 PM.

[Speedymad]

 

 

don't solid mount the bottom supports. It'll tranfer the load laterally through the engine mounts and potentially tear them. Go poly. A thermostat engine steady in addition to the standard one really helps. I run the KAD poly lower and DSN upper - on the dyno there was barely any engine movement.

I am looking at the DSN but not sure if I could run one. I run the sandwich plate but with the outlet for the inline heater, the DSN version does have the heater pipe outlet. I am sure the standard thermostat housing would sit too high for the bulkhead attachment.

I run one on my MPi, works fine. You can get the sandwich plate with or without the heater outlet on it.

https://i.imgur.com/LhsZSbX.jpeg

 

 

Thanks for sharing.  Just sent them an e-mail asking what to do for my setup and hopefully be able to get a solution.