
Top Engine Steady Bracket
#1
Posted 09 September 2023 - 08:51 PM
#2
Posted 09 September 2023 - 10:52 PM
You could fabricate a complete replacement with a lip folded down at the rear side and then bolt through that I suppose
#3
Posted 10 September 2023 - 06:58 AM
Unless I've misunderstood what you're saying... that broken off piece sticks out perpendicular to the box section so how are you going to bolt it on without any sort of welding involved..
You could fabricate a complete replacement with a lip folded down at the rear side and then bolt through that I suppose
I have a new bracket on the way the pic below is of the half on the box section that will probably be a mare to drill and remove then bolt the new bracket on.
Attached Files
#4
Posted 10 September 2023 - 08:15 AM
No reason why a bolted on bracket won't work ok, (I'm a mechanical engineer) the only reason for welding the bracket originally was because it makes sense to do it that way on a factory production line wherever possible.
You could leave the old welded bracket remaining half in place and just drill through it rather than go to all the trouble of removing it. Slight extra thickness of metal won't be a problem.
The new bolted on bracket will probably also mean you can refit the engine steady bracket that end without removing the master cylinders.....(assuming you can also access your extra bolts through the box section without the master cylinders/pedals getting in the way).
Edited by mab01uk, 10 September 2023 - 08:18 AM.
#5
Posted 10 September 2023 - 08:49 AM
#6
Posted 10 September 2023 - 09:20 AM
...assuming you can also access your extra bolts through the box section without the master cylinders/pedals getting in the way...
This is what I was wondering as well but I suppose with some persistence and a socket on an extension it might be possible
Edited by stuart bowes, 10 September 2023 - 09:20 AM.
#7
Posted 10 September 2023 - 03:11 PM
This is what I was wondering as well but I suppose with some persistence and a socket on an extension it might be possible...assuming you can also access your extra bolts through the box section without the master cylinders/pedals getting in the way...
The clutch cylinder is out anyway and I’ve removed the plate that was on the box section I’ve also taken the pedals out to get the new plate in. There is actually plenty of room to fit the plate and the bolts through with an extra one at the top of the bracket. With the clutch master out you can also get a ring spanner on all the bolts so when the bracket arrives shouldn’t take too long to get it all back together. The pleasure/ nightmare of classic minis!!!
Thanks for all the advice.
#8
Posted 18 September 2023 - 10:16 AM
On another note I can’t remember who posted the clever idea of the fork/ clevis pin for connecting the cylinders to the pedals but it makes it a 2 minute job getting them in and whoever it is they want to be careful their foot doesn’t fall off.
I just need a couple of weeks to get my back operating normally now!!
Attached Files
#9
Posted 18 September 2023 - 12:57 PM
Sorry about your back, You were meant to remove the driver's seat and fill the front and rear foot-wells with old blankets.
Very tall people might need to remove the rear screen.
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