12 replies to this topic

[SKIDDERWOLF]

I am pulling the engine out of my mini to give both the engine bay and the engine itself it a going over and clean up. I also need to replace the crank seal as I have a leak from the bottom of the clutch housing. 

While it is out I am comiling a list of what else should I consider doing to it. Currently its a 44k mile A+ engine & gearbox is good - running stage 1 minisport kit.

I dont want to fix what isnt broken but to take the opportunity to change and improve whilest I have the chance.

Thninking currently

266 Cam along with fitting duplex chains.

Fitting a lightened flywheel.

Fitting electric fuel pump.

Cylinder head modifications - Any ideas?

Is a central oil pickup worth taking the time to fit?

Not looking or expecting a road rocket, just improving on what I currently have - Maybe I should just drop a 1275 in its place but these are expensive.

Any other Ideas to chuck in the ring 

 

[MiniMadRacer]

Whilst its apart, I usually change the primary gear oil seal as you have suggested, shim the primary gear properly, and change the clutch plate and release bearing. make sure the clutch slides nicely up and down the primary gear too

[cal844]

Change the clutch ( three piece kit) along with the primary gear oil seal.

Additionally is to change the water pump and bypass hose (if fitted)

Also check the gear selector shaft seal for leaks

[bpirie1000]

When the manifold is off have a look at the carbon build up in the head make sure then mixture is correct.

[DeadSquare]

At 44K miles, I'd keep things simple, but the A series does respond to a better breathing cam and freer flowing manifolds  If you change the cam, make sure that the cam/oil pump drive is compatible and it's not worth putting a new chain on old sprockets so yes, fit duplex.

 

The 266 cam is getting towards a half race / rally cam, anything hotter isn't nice in traffic, and as you are not expecting a 'rocket', choose a cam that has a broad torque curve because it is torque that give you acceleration.  I have been pleasantly surprised by the Minispares Evo 001.

 

Changing the cam used to be so much easier when the engines had tappet covers and the cam followers could be removed with the engine in the car.  Now, I lie the engine and gearbox on its back, blocked securely and the pushrods with a downward slope, then, with 8 modern Neodymium magnets on the top of the push rods, with good luck I have found that I can hold the follower when it is on the cam lobe by jamming the pushrod with a 1/2 round wooden wedge and as the cam is rotated, the follower remains magnetically attached to the pushrod.  I then carefully withdraw the follower 5mm and re wedge the pushrod before going on to the next.

 

Do this first, because if a follower drops the wrong way, you will have to split the gearbox.

 

You will need a flywheel puller, a primary gear puller and something to shield the clutch splines when fitting the new red oil seal.

 

Wash all traces of oil from the flywheel and pressure plate before fitting the new clutch plate.

 

Any change in the flywheel means removing the crank and having everything balanced, . . .  and then starts the wondering about bearings and bores etc:

 

Central oil pickups are really only for competition engines, just make sure that you always keep the oil topped up.

 

If you fit an electric fuel pump, put it somewhere dry, like near the wiper motor.

 

The quality of petrol is to poor now, for high compressions, but it is well worth having someone who knows what they are doing, re-profiling the combustion chambers, polishing the ports and matching them to the manifolds.

Edited by DeadSquare, 18 November 2023 - 11:58 AM.

[SKIDDERWOLF]

Thanks for the replies, @Deadsquare I guess I will keep the std 998 head, would it also be worth installing a new oil pump, The engine has good pressure so it may be overkill

[johnR]

I got good results by fitting an RC40 exhaust, alloy intake manifold, lightened flywheel and Vizarding the carb

[DeadSquare]

Thanks for the replies, @Deadsquare I guess I will keep the std 998 head, would it also be worth installing a new oil pump, The engine has good pressure so it may be overkill

If you feel confident that you can change the cam without splitting the gearbox, you won't be removing the 'Transfer case' to get access to the oil pump. 

 

As the oil pressure is still good at 44k, if you strip the engine as far as the oil pump, you then have to decide whether a replacement pump will be as good quality as the manufacturer's one that you are removing.

 

 

[SKIDDERWOLF]

I have the chest covers on mine so I guess I can remove the followers through this opening. Don't really want to split the engine and box if I don't need to.

[fokko]

Might be an idea to replace the water pump while you're there? And why change to an electric fuel pump? The mechanical one is more than up to the job and they generally don't fail...

[DeadSquare]

Might be an idea to replace the water pump while you're there? And why change to an electric fuel pump? The mechanical one is more than up to the job and they generally don't fail...

As an anti-theft measure, an electric fuel pump can be wired to the panel light switch, and innocently turned off.

 

With the pump off, the car doesn't get much further than a couple of Furlongs.

[stuart bowes]

What's a furlong is that less than a parsec

[fokko]

 

Might be an idea to replace the water pump while you're there? And why change to an electric fuel pump? The mechanical one is more than up to the job and they generally don't fail...

As an anti-theft measure, an electric fuel pump can be wired to the panel light switch, and innocently turned off.

 

With the pump off, the car doesn't get much further than a couple of Furlongs.

 

 

Ok, I get that, but there a other measures that can be taken to achieve the same goal with less, e.g. some hidden switch to prevent the ignition from being turned on.