10 replies to this topic

[mbolt998]

Sharing my home front-wheel alignment "system" here in case anyone wants to try it. Requires minor fabricobbling and running Python programs on the computer. The code is here:

 

https://github.com/mbolt998/tracking

 

 

The basic idea is you park the car in front of the garage door, forwards and backwards, from two different distances (1m and 5m are good), project dots, measure the distances between them, and put it all into the computer, which tells you what alignment you currently have and where the dots should be for it to be correct. Full instructions here:

 

https://github.com/m...tracking#readme

 

Have used it my car. No other guarantee of correctness is provided :)

 

[Spider]

I made this set up a few years back


 

 

It too works using a laser but there's a mirror to bounce the beam back to the laser, were there's a scale with toe measurements. I start off as shown here, where I set each wheel to the centre line of the car, then do a final check from one side to the other. I find it quite fast as I can see the measurements under the car as I'm dialing them in.

[mbolt998]

I made this set up a few years back


 

 

It too works using a laser but there's a mirror to bounce the beam back to the laser, were there's a scale with toe measurements. I start off as shown here, where I set each wheel to the centre line of the car, then do a final check from one side to the other. I find it quite fast as I can see the measurements under the car as I'm dialing them in.

 

That looks good! I was planning on making something like that originally but ended up with the solution I did because reasons along the way... My method is pretty slow to get all the initial measurements (you have to take a reading from each wheel, forwards and backwards, from two distances, so 16 altogether!) But once you have them it's very quick to adjust because it tells you what the spacing ought to be between the dots. Because you're parked about 5m away from the wall at this point you have lots of movement of the laser point for small adjustments of the track-rod ends which is really nice. Mine is setting the front alignment relative to the rear wheels (and it also tells you what the rear alignment is). I don't know if this is better or necessary though.

Edited by mbolt998, 06 November 2024 - 09:44 AM.

[Vanman20]

Just for information,I've tried numerous alignment tools.

When compared to a 4 wheel Hunter system for accuracy I found the Gunson drive over plates to be very accurate and the Dunlop type gauges ( 2 different sets) to be hopeless.

[Spider]

That looks good! I was planning on making something like that originally but ended up with the solution I did because reasons along the way... My method is pretty slow to get all the initial measurements (you have to take a reading from each wheel, forwards and backwards, from two distances, so 16 altogether!) But once you have them it's very quick to adjust because it tells you what the spacing ought to be between the dots. Because you're parked about 5m away from the wall at this point you have lots of movement of the laser point for small adjustments of the track-rod ends which is really nice. Mine is setting the front alignment relative to the rear wheels (and it also tells you what the rear alignment is). I don't know if this is better or necessary though.

 

I use the same set and in the same way to set the rear wheels too.

 

The way I see it, the wheels can be set to each other but also without reference back to the car at all, eg, on the rear, you could have say the RH wheel tracking at 0" and the LH at 1/8". By the book, that/'s correct,, however the car will got down the road sideways (crabbing).

 

I do like what you have done, it's neat, simple and works and while slow, it does have some advantages over what I've done, since you are rolling the car back and forth, it would likely settle better. I'm doing mine on turntables that not only turn, but also slide.

 

 

Just for information,I've tried numerous alignment tools.

When compared to a 4 wheel Hunter system for accuracy I found the Gunson drive over plates to be very accurate and the Dunlop type gauges ( 2 different sets) to be hopeless.

 

I used the Dunlop Gauge a very long time ago and found it a great bit of kit. I do have a concern with the Gunson's gauge though that it really needs to be used with new or near new tyres that have no wear or at least even wear across the tread, unless I am misunderstanding how they work.
 

[68+86auto]

I don't think the Gunson type gauge should've been produced after say the 40s? The design was in use by the mid 30s and has too many issues. After that, they were commonly sold as a way to do a quick test to sell a proper alignment, not as an alignment tool. When they were used as an alignment tool, they were used in pairs and flush with the ground or ramps.

 

Now because I kind of collect alignment equipment, I would buy an old one if it was really cheap (like $20). I would however only use it as a very quick inaccurate test.

 

The Dunlop type aligner also has it's issues but it's a far better option. I have read notes from a car manufacturer in the 50s that said that when the Dunlop gauges are used, the reading should be taken in three different positions on the wheel and then averaged. If this isn't done, a slightly bent rim will throw off the reading. That's the biggest issue with the Dunlop system, it's slow. Depending on the version, I'm told they can be used to check the thrust angle (compare front to rear wheels).

 

There's a type of aligner from the 30s that is nice and simple but can't check the front to rear or each wheel independently. They are still available new. I can't recommend these to mini owners though as they barely work on a factory height mini. I seem to be close to the only one running the factory height.

 

I could go on about alignment equipment for ages. The short version is that I haven't found any new affordable alignment equipment which I consider good. Used professional equipment is the only good option. Computerised aligners can be full of issues though and expensive to maintain if you can even source parts. Light based aligners are a good choice but you do need to understand what you are doing to get good results. In the UK, many manufacturers sold and still sell laser based equivalents however many only go down to 12" rims and don't have runout compensation.

[68+86auto]

 

 

I do have a concern with the Gunson's gauge though that it really needs to be used with new or near new tyres that have no wear or at least even wear across the tread, unless I am misunderstanding how they work.

 

 

Correct.

[Steam]

I have done exhaustive testing on the Gunson trakrite and found it to be just as accurate as any other home style equipment and given the ease of use, far quicker. They are at least as accurate as the thread on the track rods.

[68+86auto]

I have done exhaustive testing on the Gunson trakrite and found it to be just as accurate as any other home style equipment and given the ease of use, far quicker. They are at least as accurate as the thread on the track rods.

 

I think home style is a key point. It is possibly more accurate than string or the plates that people use with tape measures. Those two methods are liked by many people but when the toe value is in the mm range, it can't be as accurate as equipment which multiplies the reading.

 

Any basic method done properly is probably good enough for most minis and the distance they are driven. The operator is more important than the equipment used. The Trakrite can probably beat many tyre monkeys with the lastest computerised systems, it seems to be good luck if they even enter the correct vehicle details.

[Steam]

I have done exhaustive testing on the Gunson trakrite and found it to be just as accurate as any other home style equipment and given the ease of use, far quicker. They are at least as accurate as the thread on the track rods.

 
I think home style is a key point. It is possibly more accurate than string or the plates that people use with tape measures. Those two methods are liked by many people but when the toe value is in the mm range, it can't be as accurate as equipment which multiplies the reading.
 
Any basic method done properly is probably good enough for most minis and the distance they are driven. The operator is more important than the equipment used. The Trakrite can probably beat many tyre monkeys with the lastest computerised systems, it seems to be good luck if they even enter the correct vehicle details.

Or centre thr steering rack and wheel before starting.

[Spider]

I could go on about alignment equipment for ages. The short version is that I haven't found any new affordable alignment equipment which I consider good. Used professional equipment is the only good option. Computerised aligners can be full of issues though and expensive to maintain if you can even source parts. Light based aligners are a good choice but you do need to understand what you are doing to get good results. In the UK, many manufacturers sold and still sell laser based equivalents however many only go down to 12" rims and don't have runout compensation.

Interestingly, the old FMC I'd like to off-load has wheel compensation, I feel a must for doing vehicles with steel wheels. While I didn't mention it in my post above, I do my own old school check with a dial gauge before fitting up that tracking gauge I've made, it was how I was taught eons ago. Likewise, I have a camber gauge, it fits up to the wheel by a similar method, but at 90⁰, so it does mean rotating the wheel by that amount before using, though I do Camber and Caster adjustments first, then Tracking last.

Computer gear I am not crazy about, the guys using it often aren't trained, they just follow the instructions on the screen, which if the job is straight forward, then that's OK, but if there's something curly, then they'll either miss it all together, or be lost as to what to do.