12 replies to this topic

[Shooter63]

Am I doing something wrong.
I turned up a solid alloy piece that fits tightly in the internal bore of the idler bearing, filled the hole with grease, gave the driver a few good wacks with a hammer and all I've ended up with is a workshop that looks like Peter North has been round for a big pay day shot, the bearing isn't moving at all, so I think its time to lash out on a blind bearing puller set.

Shooter

[nicklouse]

You did remove the C clip?

[floormanager]

I've always struggled to get the idler gear bearing out.  Ended up breaking it up.  Wish there was an easier method.  I've had no luck with blind bearing pullers either - the top of the bearing just breaks off.

[Gaz66]

Heat the case up for around 10 seconds round the bearing then put a pivot point in the middle (socket, bit of steel etc) and use 2 screwdrivers to prize it out 👍

[johnR]

welding around the inside of the race shrinks it (and gives something for a puller to act on)

[Icey]

The proper tool and/or a blind bearing puller along with gentle heating around the bearing. I did 5 in a row a few months back.

Key to heating is not to dwell for long in any one place. There will be posts about it not being the right way, and that it’ll bugger up the housing - that is a risk if you go mad with the heat.
You’re only looking to create a small temperature difference between the race and the housing, an absolute tiny amount is enough to allow the pullers to work.

Edited by Icey, 25 November 2023 - 11:27 PM.

[Spider]

I'd express using some caution using the Grease method of removing the bearing. Keep in mind it works by building up a pressure greater than what's holding the bearing in place, against the housing, including the back of it. I've had a few bought to me asking for repair that have cracked from trying this. It works, yes, but not always.

 

Before I had the correct tooling, in the dark ages, I would use a Dremel and take some time to grind 2 slots in the old bearing cases, stopping just before breaking through, then levering the 2 halves with light pressure. It was slow and tedious but great inexpensive results.

This is the factory's advice on removing these bearings;-

 

 

In regards to using heat, I have repaired many housings and had to scrap some due to heat being used and the Flywheel Housing suffering distortion as a result. I don't recommend it.

[KTS]

if you've got a wallpaper steamer, that works well to heat up the casing enough to get the bearing out with a bog standard blind bearing puller

[Shooter63]

I did actually have a really good blind bearing puller set until I lent it to a "friend" who then " lost it" hence trying the grease method, but I just can't see how it can work with a case with oiling ports for the bearings, as anything will always find the route of least resistance,hence the grease flying out of the port.Next I'll go for the 2 ovaled washer technique or welded bolt scenario.

Shooter

[nicklouse]

I did actually have a really good blind bearing puller set until I lent it to a "friend" who then " lost it" hence trying the grease method, but I just can't see how it can work with a case with oiling ports for the bearings, as anything will always find the route of least resistance,hence the grease flying out of the port.Next I'll go for the 2 ovaled washer technique or welded bolt scenario.

Shooter

Blue paper roll.

[GraemeC]

I think with the grease you need to block those ports as best you can and then it needs a swift sharp blow so the pressure build up is that quick it hasn’t got time to force too
Uch grease down the galleries.

[GraemeC]

You did remove the C clip?

That’s the input shaft one isn’t it?

[coopertaz]

did put in oven years back to heat only enough for bearing to come out, not recomended though as other half nearly killed me. now grind with die grinder and break 2 halves out.