
Engine Rebuild And Id
#1
Posted 14 January 2024 - 12:32 PM
Thank you.
#2
Posted 14 January 2024 - 12:48 PM
Mmm,
let’s clear some things up. You are in Aus. You are looking to have an engine you have bought delivered to an engine builder in the UK for a strip and rebuild before being shipped to Aus?
next is this just the engine or a complete power unit?
#3
Posted 14 January 2024 - 03:25 PM
Ac
#4
Posted 14 January 2024 - 04:19 PM

#5
Posted 14 January 2024 - 04:39 PM
Maystro here on the forum did something similar. He lives in Townsville, Qld. He bought a used engine in the UK, and had it sent to Mini Spares as an exchange core unit. He found the time frame very good, the engine has been great and he was able to communicate directly with Bill who builds the engines for Mini Spares.
Despite this good story here I'll caution you against doing this. If you have an issue warranty, should you need to make a claim, is going to be a headache. I'm sure who ever you go to will be happy to honor their warranty, but you'll need to ship it back to them at your cost and then bring it back to Australia also out of your pocket.
There are a few good builders in Australia. I see you are in Perth. Try Rod Weekes at the Fremantle Moke Shop 0415 682 786. He knows what he's doing and I'm sure you'll find him a pleasure to deal with.
In regards to Engine Tags as they are done in the UK, they are illegal on their own in Australia. You have to have the number stamped in to the block.
<EDIT: Have a chat to Matt Read at ReadSpeed about many of the imported reconditioned engines he's redone for customers. I'm not sure who's engines these have been, but it would seem some engine builder take advantage that the engine is being exported and not likely coming back, so while these builder might get good local (UK) reviews, the quality of their exported engines can be poor.
My own overall view and advice I have given in the past when asked about importing reconditioned engines is it's a risk, sometimes smaller, sometimes huge. I really think you'd be mad to do it. >
Edited by Spider, 14 January 2024 - 11:52 PM.
#6
Posted 14 January 2024 - 04:42 PM
#7
Posted 14 January 2024 - 11:48 PM
The last item my friend got charged for was a big order from Minispares worth about $1100. He got charged $280 import tax and duty
If you import an engine worth £5000/$10,000 then paying 10-25% on top might make it more economical to be built locally
#8
Posted 15 January 2024 - 07:29 AM
Thank you.
#9
Posted 15 January 2024 - 07:33 AM
Despite this good story here I'll caution you against doing this. If you have an issue warranty, should you need to make a claim, is going to be a headache. I'm sure who ever you go to will be happy to honor their warranty, but you'll need to ship it back to them at your cost and then bring it back to Australia also out of your pocket.
There are a few good builders in Australia. I see you are in Perth. Try Rod Weekes at the Fremantle Moke Shop 0415 682 786. He knows what he's doing and I'm sure you'll find him a pleasure to deal with.
In regards to Engine Tags as they are done in the UK, they are illegal on their own in Australia. You have to have the number stamped in to the block.
#10
Posted 15 January 2024 - 07:36 AM
Thanks
#11
Posted 15 January 2024 - 07:39 AM
#12
Posted 15 January 2024 - 05:48 PM
Hi Spider. Great help. Will reach out on my return. Re ID tags. Do I get them in UK or get the block stamped in UK prior to being shipped? Or would the engine builder do that?
Thanks
As Tim has suggested, the engine builder can do that or you can do it yourself. I note that the engine currently doesn't have a tag, but if the seller does happen to have the original number recorded, you can simply transfer that number on to the block.
I'd suggest, if you are doing it yourself, do a few trial runs on something else first to get a feel for the stamps and also the spacing of them to fit in the space available. I'd suggest using a lump hammer.
If you have the engine builder do it, I'd suggest asking them to machine the 'pad' where the number goes, down say 0.020" - 0.040" first, then stamp it in to that lowered part. The reason I suggest this is if down the track, the block needs to be decked at all, at least the number doesn't fade out or get lost with that process.
#13
Posted 15 January 2024 - 09:04 PM
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