13 replies to this topic

[siaugary]

Hello,

 

i bought a mini in december 

 

I got in a car crash with my Sarolea Estafette 1948 motorcycle. The driver of the car was distracted on his phone. 

So I needed something in place because my bike was total. I also have a daughter of 5 years old and she is already in love with the car

 

 

It is a 1977 leyland 850 build in Seneffe in belgium. first owner car with last registration from 1991.

The car has been standing for 30 plus years, and I asume in a dry shelter. I bought it from a whealty owner and I think he had some plans with the car.

 

I had a good buy on this one. It came with 2 extra engines, 2 carbs, 1 dismantled engine, extra bonnets, extra windows,....

 

 

 

The bad thing about the car is that they have oversprayed the original green color on the outside in red. And in a bad way.

 

My plan is to rebuild the car to stock standards. This except for the engine, because I do not have an 850 engine with the car.

 

So for now on i started the dismantle of the car and get al the mice out.

 

 

I will be water blasting the car to bare metal ( my company sells high pressure cleaners till 3000 bar and I want to do some tests). Therefore I started building a jig, and as I am finishing the rebuild of my house, studs wil do the trick.

 

 

My plan is to repaint it in the original color it came in. they have already told me it would be color code 

 

BLVC73

Citron
(FMD)

 

This is supposed to be the mr Bean green? 

 

 

[siaugary]

once it is on the jig, I'm going to start on the engine, or engines. complete rebuild and repaint in the original green.

 

engine nr 1

 

The one that is/was in the car

 

10h791... ( clubman saloon)

- seized

- with tappet covers

- this one is blocked and has no oil in it.

 

 

engine nr 2 ( Mini 1974 onward with dished piston)

 

 

99H791PZ 446365

 

- is loose

- almost complete

- with tappet covers

 

 

Engine nr 3

 

12H832XHZ 04071

 

- head with dubbel springs

- new valves

- i suppose they started rebuilding this engine

 

 

 

'Engine" nr 4

 

12H832XH03603

 

- complete in parts

 

 

 

 

So I will be rebuilding engine nr 3. I asume the inside would be perfect beause it realy turns smoothly.

 

- what does the serial number 12H832XHZ mean? I know it is a 1275 but I cannot find it on the haynes manual or on the site from mini mania. 

- I have 4 gearboxes now. What kind is mounted on the engine nr3? And is there a big difference between transmissions?

- after removing the rear subframe, I saw it was bended al the way. Is it nesscesairy to weld in iron plates for reinforcement?

 

 

sorry for the long post.

 

Thanks.

[colinf1]

On engine no.2, check to the right of the A/BZ for another number, hopefully it's a DAM5626 which would be the strongest type of gearbox casting.

[colinf1]

A quick google is saying engines No.3 and 4 are innocenti mk3 cooper spec, 11 stud heads

[slidehammer]

That looks like a really sound rust free shell. I think your plan to restore to the original colour is a great one as that is a really good 70's colour and it will look great when done. Good luck

[siaugary]

On engine no.2, check to the right of the A/BZ for another number, hopefully it's a DAM5626 which would be the strongest type of gearbox casting.

It says dam 4818 indeed. What is the difference with this gearbox?

[minibitz]

Engine no.3 is a 1275 A+ motor with DAM2886 A+ rod change gearbox. The gearbox will have the larger spigot A+ idler gear and 4 bolt main bearing retainer so a good combo. I see body shell is a MK4 so a rod change gear selector will bolt straight up to trans tunnel.

[siaugary]

I finished the jig so i would have some more working space to start on the engine.

Have to do a couple of finishing touches, but I had to measure it twice to rotate with the sealing 

 

Edited by siaugary, 22 January 2024 - 02:39 PM.

[siaugary]

dismounted all the parts of the front subframe yesterday.

 

For a compressor tool, I just took a rod M14, spacer, washer and a long nut. This worked perfect, maybe because the old cones are softer then new ones.

 

[johnR]

Great shell! This will be a good project - sorry to hear about your bike accident - so many car drivers are distracted by phones, kids etc

[siaugary]

Went on with the engine.

I think the person Who did some work on the 1275 messed up bigtime.

The flywheel was loose mounted on the crankshaft. Meaning it is al worn out.




So I am ging to go with the 998 engine. Because I don't want to spend allot of money at the moment on rebuilding the 1275.

I started dismanteling, and everything looks original.






I quickly cleaned the head to check for wear.
The cilinder don't have scratches, so lets keep that original.




What is nog the best option?

-998 head and hs2 carb
-998 head and hs4 carb
-1275 head and hs2 carb
-1275 head and hs4 carb

Also what is the difference of the inlet and outlet manifold as one piece casted of two separate parts?


Thanks

[johnR]

A lighter flywheel and decent inlet manifold for a single carb and LCB exhaust transforms a 998 relatively cheaply.

[siaugary]

I soda blasted the hs2 carb. Really happy with the final result !

 

 

Also sandblasted an primed the parts from the rear and front subframe

 

 

I took a broken stud out of the head

 

 

 

now I am going further on dismanteling the engine. The distribution gears came of easily except the wedge on the crankshaft.

Also my flywheel puller isn't big enough to fit the three bolts. I will be adjusting the tensioner a bit.

[ctwomey]

Engine 2 - 99H791PZ 446365 is the first A+ incarnation of the 998. Same as the 99H791P but with an A+ block. 8.3CR and pistons use circlips instead of press fit. 

 

FYI - I have 99H791PZ 459924 (April '81 Mini City) and it was all original and had the DAM2886 gearbox (A+ idler but with original A gear sets and 3.44 diff, non verto)