8 replies to this topic

[alpder]

The Mk1/2 heater, screen vents, air-box, and other parts seem to be pressed from some kind of plated steel, which has been factory-painted with a thin black flaky lacquer.

 

So my the question is: what paint sticks best to the remaining black stuff, and to the plating, and to the (rusty) steel? Any recommendations from someone who's had good success on these items - and not had it all flake off again three months later, please? I hate painting so this isn't a job I want to "learn how to do by doing twice".

[cal844]

Preparation is key. No rust and the you want crinkle finish paint

[absx2]

Remove ALL the existing paint if you don`t want to do it again and once you have clean bare metal coat with Upol acid 8 primer or similar etch primer as being a DIY job I`m guessing you don`t have a spray gun so tins it is. Then satin or crinkle black depending on the item.

To save a world of pain and to do the job properly you would be wise to get the parts media blasted as it will save you a day of sore fingers and dust and you will end up with a far superior job. 

[Mini Manannán]

I've used Simoniz tough paint a lot on my car, we've found it extreeemely durable: https://www.google.c...chrome&ie=UTF-8

[alpder]

... get the parts media blasted ...

We have a local sandblaster/powdercoater who's done the wheels, suspension, subframes - all the heavy bits. But is it safe to let a sandblaster play with the tin-plate stuff? Our nearest vapour-blaster did a great job on the last gearbox... but the cost was at least triple and he's 90 minutes round-trip away.

[RooBoonix]

Just like to mention, if using crinkle paint do some testers on a spare part first as I have found it can act strangely if not applied correctly. Not enough and it doesn't crinkle properly, too much and you get runs or an uneven finish.

[absx2]

 

... get the parts media blasted ...

We have a local sandblaster/powdercoater who's done the wheels, suspension, subframes - all the heavy bits. But is it safe to let a sandblaster play with the tin-plate stuff? Our nearest vapour-blaster did a great job on the last gearbox... but the cost was at least triple and he's 90 minutes round-trip away.

 

If depends on who`s doing it I guess. Personally I`ve done dozens of Mk1 heaters and the like at work and it`s just a case of turning the PSI down to about 40 - 50 and not using too aggressive media. It`s quite possible to distort panels due to the rapid heat build up if using too much pressure and having the gun too close. I cocked up a bonnet by blasting the internal braces as they had caught a bit of rust and on turning the bonnet over the metal was dipped to the shape of the internals. Tough lesson learned there but a least it was my own bonnet.

[alpder]

Thanks everyone. I'll get some crinkle-paint (VHT Wrinkle Plus seems to be the one) and make a temporary "oven" from some insulation and a fan-heater so I can get consistent results - far too cold in my shed for the paint to work otherwise. And I'll take a sackful of bits up to the sandblaster and see what he thinks.

[Vanman20]

Find a paint factors who sell Lechler paints,Lechler do a paint called Tecnogrip.It's cracking stuff, adheres to bare metal,is fast drying,comes in many colours  and can be had in an aerosol