
Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement Components
#1
Posted 10 March 2024 - 12:45 PM
After removal, the pin had the pictured metal ring stuck on. Is this a spacer? I assume it's associated with the old roller bearings and not required with the newer timkin type taper bearings?
Cheers, Peter
#2
Posted 10 March 2024 - 01:10 PM
All original Mini bearings used a matched spacer between the races.
later bearings had the spacer made as part of the bearing.
always use all the parts that come in each bag with the other parts in that bag. Do not mix them up.
#3
Posted 10 March 2024 - 01:41 PM
One more note- Haynes suggests on taper bearings that new oil seal should be placed with the open lip facing outwards away from the bearing, however the other taper bearing assembly I have taken off the car had it installed by a previous owner facing inwards, is this incorrect?
#4
Posted 10 March 2024 - 02:13 PM
Well thats what you get for buying Haynes.
Make sure the seal is fitted in the correct orientation, so not facing outwards, but always with the spring facing the side of the medium to be sealed.
It is best to press the seal into the bore evenly and should never be forcefully hammered in.
#5
Posted 05 June 2024 - 06:31 PM
The old bearings are practically néw because the car was hardly used since it was fitted many years ago. When I fitted the hub on the one side where I also replaced the radius arm, the bearing got stuck on the stub axle. I thought perhaps there was a bit of dirt or something on the axle and when I tried to remove it, the bearing came apart. I tried to put it back together with no success.
So now I'm thinking to get the timken for the one side at least. I know there's mention of a built in spacer on the timken bearings but there is also a lot of complaints about those timken bearings having to much play.
So, I'm think to just order some timken bearings for my local bearing supplier and use some crankshaft shims between them and mentioned by some.
What is the bearing spec or part number I need to order?
#6
Posted 05 June 2024 - 07:02 PM
Thanks, as expected, just wanted to ensure the pictures part was indeed part of the old bearings and not some essential piece of the assembly!
One more note- Haynes suggests on taper bearings that new oil seal should be placed with the open lip facing outwards away from the bearing, however the other taper bearing assembly I have taken off the car had it installed by a previous owner facing inwards, is this incorrect?
I wonder what it says in the Rover manual.
Ohhhhh Haynes may be correct.
#7
Posted 05 June 2024 - 07:44 PM
Looks like that's another job for the weekend, to take them off and turn them around
#8
Posted 05 June 2024 - 08:42 PM
I plan on changing the rear wheel bearings from the old ball bearing type to timken taper bearings.
The old bearings are practically néw because the car was hardly used since it was fitted many years ago. When I fitted the hub on the one side where I also replaced the radius arm, the bearing got stuck on the stub axle. I thought perhaps there was a bit of dirt or something on the axle and when I tried to remove it, the bearing came apart. I tried to put it back together with no success.
So now I'm thinking to get the timken for the one side at least. I know there's mention of a built in spacer on the timken bearings but there is also a lot of complaints about those timken bearings having to much play.
So, I'm think to just order some timken bearings for my local bearing supplier and use some crankshaft shims between them and mentioned by some.
What is the bearing spec or part number I need to order?
Is the correct part number GHK1548 from timken? So if I order that from my local bearing guy, it should be the correct one with the built in spacer?
#9
Posted 05 June 2024 - 09:35 PM
Every video I've watched on YouTube, the seal is put in the closed side to the backing plate.
Looks like that's another job for the weekend, to take them off and turn them around
And here we have the manual for the earlier cars.
it all depends on the bearings.
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