6 replies to this topic

[Ol timer]

gday everyone. I am trying to find some info on the UPOL power high build primer.

I plan on painting the mini in cellulose however I have 10 cans of the UPOL high build.

does anyone know if this is an acrylic High build primer or will it be compatible with Cellulose.

their websites states it is suitable foe most top coats . I have rung them and they are vague in their response. basically they said they don't know .

I have no idea as to the composite of the original paint on the car. I do have cells primer as well as cells paint in stock. but I thought about using the UPOL rattle cans as a start as I will be doing one panel at a time before I give it a full coat of celly primer. .

I do have barcoat but the powers to be where I got my celly paint from said that barcoat is really only used as a fix for bleeding in certain areas not as a prevention on the whole body..

any correct advice would be greatly appreciated

Kevin

[sonscar]

Any doubt about the composition or thickness of previous paint is best dealt with by bare metal.Probably not what you want to hear.You will spend hundreds of hours labour and hundreds of pounds in paint all of which could be wasted.I am not a painter but have painted cars dozens of times.Steve..

[Ol timer]

cheers Steve. I have sanded down the issue points to bare metal. but not in a position to do the lot unfortunately.the rest looks pretty stable and as hard as a rock. I do agree the right way of doing it is that but it won't happen.

[Midas Mk1]

I used a mipa isolator last year to good effect, wouldn’t be using celly either, far better paint out there.

[absx2]

Rattle cans are a sure fire way of getting micro blisters further down the line, usually the first cold snap or prolonged damp weather spell. Don`t do it.

+1 on the Mipa isolator and all Mipa products.

.

You`re probably going for cellulose as you are doing it yourself and don`t want to die or kill your neighbours which is a fair one. 

You can and I have personally produced show winning paint jobs with cellulose in the past but the preparation and conditions have to be perfect and it takes literally four times longer than modern paint finishes on a good day.

I don`t knock the stuff as I used to use it for a living but it`s hard work and not as durable as it was 20 years.

 

I`m a bit out of touch these days but it`s worth having a chat with a paint supplier as you can get 1K acrylic paints and isocyanate free 2K now.

The last two jobs I`ve done were vintage motorcycle tanks in 2K and the finish achievable with minimal effort is amazing.

[Ol timer]

thanks Midas. whilst I agree there are better paints out there. I am torn towards using celly..

[Ol timer]

thanks Absx2. that's exactly why I have chosen celly. am doing at home in the garage.

I have got a ltr of Barcoat and was going to cover the car in that before I sprayed antsy cellulose coatings.

I've not used it or Mipa isolator so I cannot compare. Would you advise painting the car in an isolator prior to painting ?

Personally I can't see the benefit of taking a gamble to spray celly , wait for it to react, rub down, then use an isolator just Seems pointless.All advice is very welcome