Fuel Sender Guage
#1
Posted 08 May 2024 - 03:41 PM
#2
Posted 08 May 2024 - 06:13 PM
Assuming the new sender is correct for the tank, matches the gauge, is correctly fitted, and hasn't jammed in the "up" position, then the chances are that the wire from the sender is shorted to ground. Probably close to or at the sender, since that's where the wire has been recently manipulated. First test is to unplug the wire from the sender. If the needle goes down, you know it's the sender. If it stays up, you know it's the wire.
Edited by alpder, 08 May 2024 - 06:14 PM.
#3
Posted 09 May 2024 - 10:29 AM
#4
Posted 09 May 2024 - 08:25 PM
The sender is part of a circuit which (roughly speaking) is a series circuit like this:
12V+ ... voltage regulator ... gauge ... sender ... Earth=12V- (Assuming a neg earth car.)
The voltage regulator turns the 11V-14.4V which comes off the battery/alternator into a stable constant voltage. (Actually, the original type don't even do that, but it's a close enough approximation to get how the circuit works.) See below for my ignorance on this, though. Hoping someone else can help on this.
The sender just puts a resistance into the circuit - lots of resistance when the tank is empty (so not much current flows and the needle hardly moves up the dial) and very little resistance when the tank is full (so lots of current flows and so the needle goes to full deflection). The sender's body must be connected to earth (i.e. by bolting into the tank firmly, or by temporarily wiring the body to the chassis.) Testing with the sender out of the tank - without it being earthed - will give the same result as unplugging the wire from the sender: it breaks the circuit, no current can flow, so the gauge reads zero. Testing with the sender loosely bolted into the tank will give variable results, as it won't be earthed consistently.
At least the following faults can occur which will cause your gauge to go to permanently high reading:
Voltage regulator has broke, so that you're getting more than the regulated volts at the gauge. I don't know what the regulated volts should be... if it should be something like 6V then a s/c reg will cause the gauge to over-read (a lot). But if it the reg should normally give 11V or 12V then it's unlikely to be your problem, assuming you're testing with the engine stopped, because that's close to battery volts anyway. Anyone got info on this, please?
Sender broke. So maybe it's gone short-circuit, which will cause a "full" read constantly.
Wire from gauge to sender shorted to the chassis. Which will cause gauge to read full always, no matter what you do, because the circuit is complete (but is missing the sender's resistance.) Maybe wiggling the wire may break/remake the s/c, causing the needle to move between full and empty.
#5
Posted 10 May 2024 - 04:36 PM
#6
Posted 11 May 2024 - 04:36 PM
My new issue is that wipers only worked on slow and one wipe, fast wipe didn't work.
There's a really good explanation of 2-speed Lucas wipers on an MGA forum: https://mgaguru.com/.../2spd_dr3a2.pdf . Might have all you need to figure out what's going wrong.
#7
Posted 11 May 2024 - 06:46 PM
When you are connecting the wires to the new Sender, there's usually 2 terminals on them, one being an Earth and the other is an insulated Terminal. There's usually a black wire and a Green / Black wire to connect to the Sender. Check that the Green / Black wire is connected to the Insulated Terminal.
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users










