10 replies to this topic

[68+86auto]

For a few reasons I am now looking to get a set of five 12x4.5" rims with 145/70r12 tyres. Are the CX668s ok?

 

Part of it is as an experiment because the A539s don't really suit 4.5" rims and positive camber.

[absx2]

I have used them and they are okay for general use and better than the Falken tyre in the wet for sure but you have to remember they have half the grip of the 165 Yoko`s and if you are running with positive camber you need all the grip you can get.

 

I use the A539 on my Rover minilight 4.5" wheels and they are the best out here after the A048 R.

[Steam]

There is nothing wrong with falkens but they no longer make 12 inch.
Here in Aus tyroola and tyresales have a good range of 145, 155 and 165 in 12 inch.

[68+86auto]

What I also wonder is how they will compare to the 145/80R10 SN807 or similar. These 12" CX668s are half the price.


There's a couple of reasons I'm looking at 145/70R12s. One is to have the tallest and best priced solution for a 10" wheeled mini which likely has a moke diff. I don't need the cheapest solution but spending around $200 per tyre is not the best idea for the situation. 12s generally seem to be the cheapest solution. The other reason is I suspect they'll be a better size on my Rover mini so I want to test it. Currently the a539s wear down the outer edge and the steering just never seems right.

Unfortunately I know they won't have the grip that I like of an a539. I am not a fan of Falken tyres, not just mini ones. I have no user experience with Nankang tyres.

Ideally I'd like to get both 10x5 and 12x5 rims and use Yokohamas. Unfortunately all the new rims seem rubbish.

[Authi]

I.m running with XZX Michelin 145/70/12, (12  x 4.5 )  not so cheap, but excelent choice.

[gazza82]

Currently the a539s wear down the outer edge and the steering just never seems right.

Sounds like tracking is out ...

[68+86auto]

Currently the a539s wear down the outer edge and the steering just never seems right.

Sounds like tracking is out ...

I initially thought that myself but the rear is wearing the outer edge too and that had the full factory toe in.

Im also 99% sure it is correct because I've done it myself. The only reason it would be wrong is if there's more/less play than the factory calculated.

[Midas Mk1]

 

 

Currently the a539s wear down the outer edge and the steering just never seems right.

Sounds like tracking is out ...

I initially thought that myself but the rear is wearing the outer edge too and that had the full factory toe in.

Im also 99% sure it is correct because I've done it myself. The only reason it would be wrong is if there's more/less play than the factory calculated.

 

 

 

What toe, camber, castor angles have you measured? Although as standard the geo is only adjustable on front toe doesnt mean that they are correct. Subframe changes, bush wear, bent brackets, arms, can soon add up, even on modern vehicles (experience)



If you want originality then it would be these 145 r12's 

https://www.longston...urato-cn54.html

However, i'd have a539's all day long, and dial in the geo, tyre type wont affect the wear on a new set of tyres. 

 

Edited by Midas Mk1, 28 May 2024 - 06:27 AM.

[68+86auto]

Currently the a539s wear down the outer edge and the steering just never seems right.

Sounds like tracking is out ...

I initially thought that myself but the rear is wearing the outer edge too and that had the full factory toe in.

Im also 99% sure it is correct because I've done it myself. The only reason it would be wrong is if there's more/less play than the factory calculated.

What toe, camber, castor angles have you measured? Although as standard the geo is only adjustable on front toe doesnt mean that they are correct. Subframe changes, bush wear, bent brackets, arms, can soon add up, even on modern vehicles (experience)



If you want originality then it would be these 145 r12's

https://www.longston...urato-cn54.html

However, i'd have a539's all day long, and dial in the geo, tyre type wont affect the wear on a new set of tyres.

My theory is that the wear is simply due to the factory geometry. It was designed for cross-ply tyres which need more positive camber and less caster than radials. I think it would take a lot longer to show up with the 145 R12 tyres.


This is what it was like before I did some modifications to improve the issue. The camber/caster difference will be due to that test being done on unlevel ground.


 Screenshot_20240528_190145_Sheets.jpg   46.7K   0 downloads

Here is what I changed it to on level ground. I didn't record the rear alignment previously but it was around the specified 30 minutes toe in. It was reduced simply due to my dodgy filing of some spare rear brackets to change the camber as well as then shimming the RH side to correct the thrust angle. I fitted adjustable tie bars as the originals were of course bent. I reduced the caster slightly in order to reduce the positive camber slightly. The caster is different simply because it was getting too late so I decided it was close enough and I'd use the road crown as an excuse.

 Screenshot_20240528_190136_Sheets.jpg   45.24K   0 downloads

I would reduce the positive camber on the front however that would require more work due to the maintenance free ball joints being fitted. From what I understand they don't have enough travel. Also since it has aircon there is a fan inside the guard which the 165 tyres only just clear, when I do a U turn with a passenger it hits.

Edited by 68+86auto, 28 May 2024 - 09:22 AM.

[68+86auto]

And we aren't talking about crazy amounts of wear. Enough that it was visually noticeable but that is after 15000km

[roblightbody]

I haven't tried them, but they're making the Pirelli Cinturatos again via Vintage Tyres - that was the OEM tyre right through to end of production.  Someone else on here said the new version is better than it was then due to an improved compound.

 

https://www.pirelli....cinturato-cn-54