14 replies to this topic

[Utopian2]

Dear All,

 

I've had a Mini for 3 months now (still not driven it due to enormous DVLA delays).

 

 

Everything to do with the petrol tank is so difficult.

 

Some forum members will tell you that it's a 'doddle' to move or remove the original tank.

I can reassure you that unless you happen to have a container that will hold 30 litres or so of petrol (who has that?), it can be a very hard job indeed, even for two people.

 

The basic problem is that someone has to hold and maneuver the tank that may weigh 30 or so kilos at full stretch (due to the boot lid) for a considerable time. If you have ever tried this with weights in the gym, you will know how difficult this can be.

 

Also, you can buy a nice fancy (chrome/polished alloy) fuel cap from Huddersfield spares, or an even more expensive one from Minisports with 'John Cooper' engraved on it, and they will both tell you verbally that they fit the MPI Minis - they don't!

 

My advice to anyone in a similar situation would be to drive the Mini (if possible) until the tank is nearly empty before attempting any work involving the fuel tank.

 

I've been able (with help) to move the tank far enough to enable the application of SilentCoat over the wheel arch, but trying to add either fuel cap over the existing (original) lockable one is hopeless - the neck is not long enough.

 

There is a foam spacer/seal on the neck of the filler pipe inside the bodywork, which I think I could cut down to half the thickness, This may allow enough of the neck to pertrude and enable one or other of the fuel caps to be fitted, I don't know at this point if this is worthwhile.

 

Any help will be gratefully received, as I'm sure I can't be the only MPI owner to have come across this situation and is not in a position to fashion a bespoke solution (beyond my skills).

 

I haven't found anyone who has done this via the forum search, so if you can help me, you will no doubt be helping many others.

 

Thanks

 

 

P.S Adding the SilentCoat has not made the situation better, or worse.

 

[MikeRotherham]

Depending on what work you need to do Its not always recessary to completely remove the tank.

 

I needed to replace the dampers and drop the suspension on the nearside rear.

 

I did drain most of the fuel out of the tank with this:

 

https://www.amazon.c...GZfbmV4dA&psc=1

 

I was able to rotate the tank to give access to the wheel arch top to remove and replace the damper.

 

Make sure that you put something in the spare wheel well to give a surface for the tank to stand on.

 

When I loosened the strap holding the tank I made sure that the petrol pipe wasn't put under any strain and kept check this during removal and replacement.

 

When I'd swapped the damper I carefully replaced the tank.

 

Mine is a carburettor version engine so less pipes to the tank so perhaps someone with an SPI/MPI could also comment.

Edited by MikeRotherham, 27 May 2024 - 08:19 PM.

[alpder]

And I thought the van/estate tank was a complete s*d to work on. I didn't realise how good I had it in comparison!

[cal844]

I never have any issues moving the tanks, getting them lined up so the neck is through enough is a bit of a faff but doable

[Spider]

With the tank drained, they are a bit fiddley if you are also leaning in over the boot lid but I wouldn't say they are hard. I think the issues you had was down to trying to do it with fuel in the tank.

[mab01uk]

Temporarily removing the boot lid also improves access....

 

What were you hoping to achieve by adding SilentCoat over the wheel arch?

 

This thread linked below shows the key areas the factory found to make a Mini quieter and more refined after much research.....sadly most of the improvements were deleted a few years later to save production costs....

 

The Quiet Mini - 1980:-

https://www.theminif...uiet-mini-1980/

 

 

[mbolt998]

I think better to siphon the fuel out first. Driving the car around might not be an option if both car and fuel have been sat for 25y... I found getting the tank out the first time was a bit tricky but you kind of get the knack. Just needs jiggling around a bit. If you are planning on changing the rear shocks do so now while you have the tank out otherwise it will need to come out, or at least be moved, again!

[Steam]

You could always cut an access hole behind the rear seat.

[mab01uk]

You could always cut an access hole behind the rear seat.

 

As the BMC Works Rally Minis did for quick and easy access to the top rear shock absorber/damper mounting without moving the twin fuel tanks.

Edited by mab01uk, 28 May 2024 - 10:50 AM.

[whistler]

 

You could always cut an access hole behind the rear seat.

 

As the BMC Works Rally Minis did for quick and easy access to the top rear shock absorber/damper mounting without moving the twin fuel tanks.

 

Did on my last Mini. You have to be careful as the fuel gauge harness could be in the way.

[andyapanel]

I always disconnect the rubber hose that connects to the fuel line and run the fuel into petrol cans. Moving the tank isn't a problem.

[slidehammer]

I wouldn't contemplate trying to remove the tank with it full of fuel as it makes the thing far more heavy and dangerous if it leaks.

I try to run the fuel low on my motorbike when I need to remove the tank as even that as a lot of weight and makes it more awkward to move around and store.

[Utopian2]

Thanks for all your replies.

Thanks in particular for the tip about the syphoning kit from Amazon, I may explore that option as I have a jerry can and other cars to put the petrol into.

As for the SilentCoat on the rear wheel arches, this is recommended by SilentCoat, and I have some left over from doing the rest of the car.


Any tips regarding putting a nice fuel cap on the MPI?

[Designer]

My solution as posted in another topic.

 

The way I did it was as follows. Put a piece of hose pipe down to just above the bottom of the tank.

Got the largest fitting for an airbed 12v pump set that in the filler neck using duck tap so that hose and fitting were totally sealed with the tank filler.

Stuck some duck tape over the overflow at the top of the tank.

Connected the pump to the fitting and switched on.

Once the fuel started to flow into the suitable container switched off the pump and just let the syphon action complete the job.

Pump was on for about 1 1/2 minutes to get sufficient pressure.

The pump cost me about £15 online somewhere but had it anyway for pumping up our large pool top ring.

 

The tank was about 3/4 full and drained in about 3 minutes.

Edited by Designer, 28 May 2024 - 05:38 PM.

[Utopian2]

Temporarily removing the boot lid also improves access....

 

What were you hoping to achieve by adding SilentCoat over the wheel arch?

 

This thread linked below shows the key areas the factory found to make a Mini quieter and more refined after much research.....sadly most of the improvements were deleted a few years later to save production costs....

 

The Quiet Mini - 1980:-

https://www.theminif...uiet-mini-1980/

Nice info on the 'Quiet Mini'. A mistake not to continue with it, in my opinion.