18 replies to this topic

[Earwax]

I am not advocating for moving away from cooling just yet, as I think the condition of the cooling fins, the hoses not collapsing, the coolant itself and radiator clean /flush could all produce results, but before looking for fuel and carb I would plot the dizzy curve. Even with vac advance some curves are too slow/retarded near the 2000- 3000 rpm - which again could contribute to heat. 

[mbolt998]

Update: the car kept getting a bit hot (up to nearly H, but not boiling over) in normal driving. So I just kept driving it because what was I supposed to do. And now (after maybe 3000 miles) it's fine! Goes a tiny bit above N when working hard but that's it. My best theory is just that it was still a bit furred up in there somewhere after 25y off the road.

[JVA10L]

My temperature gauge has started reading hot so a quick search brought me to this thread. The needle used to sit right on N but is now going almost to the H. The thermostat is 82C and when I measure the engine temp with an infrared reader it shows 82C. The sender and the stabiliser are about 50 years old so I replaced the GTR101 but it made no difference so I replaced the stabiliser C34770A and still no different. I am confident the engine is running at 82C because any time I measure the temp by pointing the laser on the infrared reader at the GTR101 it reads 82C, or very near to 82C. Can the gauge be re-calibrated?

[Spider]

My temperature gauge has started reading hot so a quick search brought me to this thread. The needle used to sit right on N but is now going almost to the H. The thermostat is 82C and when I measure the engine temp with an infrared reader it shows 82C. The sender and the stabiliser are about 50 years old so I replaced the GTR101 but it made no difference so I replaced the stabiliser C34770A and still no different. I am confident the engine is running at 82C because any time I measure the temp by pointing the laser on the infrared reader at the GTR101 it reads 82C, or very near to 82C. Can the gauge be re-calibrated?

 

There is some limited adjustment on the gauge but I'd suggest spending a few minutes doing a some basic checks.

Measure the cold resistance of the sender, then get the engine up to normal running temps and measure again. Compare these to the chart on the previous page.

 

Having suggested that, I'm inclined to think that one of the metal strips of the bi-metal strip has cracked. That's not a given, there could also be a wiring fault.