6 replies to this topic

[MotorEddy]

Good morning all....

Having bought a barn find '93 Sprite (yes....in a nice dry barn near Penrith) I thought I'd document my experiences here. I have never owned a Mini nor welded a rusty vehicle. Done some fabrication on other projects, but no bodywork / thin sheetmetal.

 

See https://www.theminif...rom-lancashire/ for collection pics.

I cut off the first rusty wing...

 

 

Then the second, and the front panel

 

 

 

Began to check new metal for fit

 

 

I think it's the wrong front panel...an early solid mount instead of a later rubber teardop mount. Will try and exchange this or get a credit note. While I'm this far in I'm going to replace A panels, too.

I was going through the paperwork which came with the car yesterday....first owner from Poulton-le-Fylde bought the car in Jan 1993 so I guess it's a 1992 build. The first service in Aug 1993, which is nominally a 6,000 mile service was carried out at...799 miles! And the first MOT test for which I have the record was in Jan 2006 by which time the car was 13 years old and it had covered just 13782 miles. By the time the last MOT was given in 2016 it was still at only 31k miles and it's been in a dry barn since 2017 at just 36k miles.

 

[MotorEddy]

The left hand scuttle closer has been replaced at some point, and is in great shape...just not very well attached and covered in black PU sealer. It almost fell out once the sealer was removed, leaving this...

 

 

 

All looks pretty clean in there to be honest. And beneath that, we have this...

 

My plan is just to clean up, apply rust prevention and paint and re-attach the closer then the A panel and wing.

The other side isn't so pretty....original closer still in place.....just!

 

 

And just this hole in what I think is called the flitch?

 

 

Any suggestions welcome...I'm just feeling my way here! There one small, well executed repair to the floor / toeboard area but it's really, really solid. Still has the genuine outer sills which are in great shape. I think there may have been a repair to the door steps but it's been done properly.  

[stuart bowes]

you might prefer to keep that front panel in the end, it bolts up to the same place anyway, just replace the rest of the mounts with solid type as well, people do say it's better for a more positive handling 

 

that's what I did anyway, each to their own preferences of course

[MotorEddy]

you might prefer to keep that front panel in the end, it bolts up to the same place anyway, just replace the rest of the mounts with solid type as well, people do say it's better for a more positive handling 

 

that's what I did anyway, each to their own preferences of course

When you say "the rest of the mounts" do you mean subframe-to-body mounts? I've never owned a Mini and although I know that there are solid and rubber mounted cars I'm hazy in the extreme on details.

I popped out to the garage at lunchtime and removed the last vestiges of the right hand A panel. I think I'm going to need a flitch repair panel, but only use the outer 3 or 4 inches. We'll see once I start cutting back.

[stuart bowes]

yes, there's the two top ones at the crossmember (big bolts at the top near the master cylinders and wiper motor) and the bottom brackets under the steering rack

 

all of these are available as solid mount versions instead of the rubber 

 

I think the general advice is all or none, i.e. if any are solid then they should all be solid

 

https://www.minispar...|Back to search

 

^ the full kit, except you won't need the teardrops if you're using the older style front end, it just buts straight up to the subframe.  not sure if it works out cheaper to buy the other bits individually instead

 

the flitch panels aren't hugely expensive, you can cut the bit you need and it will be a good fit, then just use the rest as spare sheet metal which I've doubt you'll need here and there for other repairs 

 

looks like you need new scuttle panel closing panels as well again replacements aren't expensive.  and a million times easier to do now with the wings off

Edited by stuart bowes, 30 August 2024 - 03:18 PM.

[MotorEddy]

New battery arrived yesterday, so I hooked it up today...

 

 

 

Added a temporary fuel supply

 

 

And it started after a couple of cranks! And drove, too. The clutch is terribly stiff, and very on/off. And once the choke was off it bogged down on a whiff of throttle, but....no smoke, no knocking or rattling, gears, clutch and brakes all work. As far as I know it's not run since the MOT ran out in 2017 and it was parked in a barn.

Having it movable is a huge step forwards. At some point I need to drop the rear subframe to tackle the boot floor so it'll be immobile again but while I'm tackling the front this is great.

[sonscar]

I'd call that a win.Buy some flat sheet metal and have a go at fabricating some of your own sections.the inner door post may be unhappy in places.Looks like a good project car.Have fun.Steve..