11 replies to this topic

[John/Dominguez]

Hey everyone.. Long time no see!!

I want to open this post as I’ve got some doubts about my project car.. I’ll give you a low down.

I just bought a 1991 mainstream cooper here in sunny Spain as a long term project. My other half needed a car so I used that as an excuse to get back into minis giving her my daily and getting the mainstream to use as a daily (8 Miles’s a day) for now. The car just covered 800 miles in a day to get me home from where I bought it so I know as for now it has been solid.

The idea is somewhere down the line do a full restoration ( strip down/sandblast/repair and respray/ do a full engine and subframes rebuild etc etc..) keeping the car as standard as possible.

But as for now I would really love to start working on her but I’m struggling to make a plan to decide where to start. The engine just had a full service ( oil/filters/fan belt/spark plugs/coolant/thermostat/ pads and shoes) so that’s done.. I thought to remove the rear subframe and do a complete rebuild but I would have to remove it again once I start with the shell full restoration…

Can you guys give me your thoughts on this matter?? Thanks in advance guys

Edited by John/Dominguez, 26 October 2024 - 01:22 PM.

[MrBounce]

Here's my thoughts having done a full stripdown on my Midas as a relatively inexperienced spanner wielder:

 

• I would start with a full suspension overhaul (NOT the subframe itself) - check the shocks, rubber doughnuts, all the bushes, engine mounts, steering rack and track rod ends etc. It's astonishing how much difference decent suspension can make to what you think is normal. Also, once done, and you're then doing the restoration of the body, you know that it can just be bolted back on and it will work. You can replace the rear subframe at this point.
• Check the brakes and renew pads/shoes as necessary. Don't forget the handbrake cables. Change the fluid. In many cases it hasn't been done for years.
• Look at the tyres for wear patterns and dates to see how old they are. Tyres are the only thing between the car and the road. They are so often overlooked.
• Are you doing any engine work which might necessitate removal of the engine? If not, give it a good clean down and smarten up the engine bay. If nothing else, it'll make it a much nicer place to work in. You don't want to be covered in old baked on dirt and grease every time you check the oil.
• Make sure that your tool kit has the necessary special tools - they can make ALL the difference. Little things such as the rear wheel cylinder tool can save hours. A doughnut compression tool when removing the front rubber springs is a must.
• Ask yourself whether something REALLY needs replacing? Often a clean up and repaint of things such as suspension arms can suffice. However, make sure that any suspect rubber bushing is changed. Ask yourself how deep into a restoration do you want to go? Costs mount up very quickly.
• Do not be afraid to tackle anything yourself. Before the Midas, the most I had done was a Head Gasket change. However, also know your limits - I can't do electrics at ALL.
• ABOVE ALL KEEP YOURSELF SAFE. Use axle stands before getting under the car, and make sure that you use eye protection wherever possible. It's so often overlooked. Sitting with a mate at hospital whilst he had a small piece of grit removed from his eye was not a fun experience for either of us.
• Start a rebuild thread on here.
• And have fun!

[stuart bowes]

aside from the above which is pretty comprehensive and all good points, I would say start by making a list of what actually needs doing, particularly bodywork which is possibly the most time consuming expensive bit which requires the most amount of stripping down for access and so on

 

go all over it with a screwdriver gently poking at all the edges and corners, pull up carpets inside, in the boot, all round the engine bay, A panels, in the arches, the floorpan, inner and outer sills, all the seams, etc.   just get a good idea of all the repairs required and make a plan, compare that to your budget and work out how to go forwards with it

 

take a comprehensive set of pictures of all the issues, post them up here and get opinions, that will help with forward planning

 

My view on it is, might as well deal with any inevitable rusty areas first and get to the point where you have a solid shell to build up from,  do it right do it once

 

at the very least, make sure you don't have any dangerous rust, close to subframe fixing points, suspension fixing points, anything that might mean something can fall off

 

last thing you want is to get halfway through and realise it's just too much to take on, and get disheartened with it or have to sell it off as a half finished project

Edited by stuart bowes, 26 October 2024 - 03:41 PM.

[sonscar]

I would drive it and fix things as they occurr.This is not the modern approach it seems.Steve..

[mab01uk]

Beware of removing the rear subframe just for a quick rebuild/maintenance unless you are ready for what may beome a bigger job if you find rusted/seized bolts that shear off in the process. Such things can be fixed as part of a restoration or rebuild if you are prepared in advance but often involve more time off road which might not be ideal if the Mini is your daily driver.

 

Also if you find any original rubber bushes that still are in good condition they are often best cleaned & retained as modern rubber replacements are often of poor quality and crack/perish within a year or so even with little use. Minispares do their best to offer rubber parts of good quality to original Rover standards and at least they normally indicate when they have better quality rubber components available for a small extra cost.

Edited by mab01uk, 26 October 2024 - 06:44 PM.

[John/Dominguez]

First of all I want to thank you all for taking your time to give me all this great advice, I very much appreciate it! I will try my best with my English as I’ve moved back to Spain 9 years ago and I’ll may need a bit of wd40 to derust my vocabulary!!

[John/Dominguez]

<p>

Here's my thoughts having done a full stripdown on my Midas as a relatively inexperienced spanner wielder:

• I would start with a full suspension overhaul (NOT the subframe itself) - check the shocks, rubber doughnuts, all the bushes, engine mounts, steering rack and track rod ends etc. It's astonishing how much difference decent suspension can make to what you think is normal. Also, once done, and you're then doing the restoration of the body, you know that it can just be bolted back on and it will work. You can replace the rear subframe at this point.
• Check the brakes and renew pads/shoes as necessary. Don't forget the handbrake cables. Change the fluid. In many cases it hasn't been done for years.
• Look at the tyres for wear patterns and dates to see how old they are. Tyres are the only thing between the car and the road. They are so often overlooked.
• Are you doing any engine work which might necessitate removal of the engine? If not, give it a good clean down and smarten up the engine bay. If nothing else, it'll make it a much nicer place to work in. You don't want to be covered in old baked on dirt and grease every time you check the oil.
• Make sure that your tool kit has the necessary special tools - they can make ALL the difference. Little things such as the rear wheel cylinder tool can save hours. A doughnut compression tool when removing the front rubber springs is a must.
• Ask yourself whether something REALLY needs replacing? Often a clean up and repaint of things such as suspension arms can suffice. However, make sure that any suspect rubber bushing is changed. Ask yourself how deep into a restoration do you want to go? Costs mount up very quickly.
• Do not be afraid to tackle anything yourself. Before the Midas, the most I had done was a Head Gasket change. However, also know your limits - I can't do electrics at ALL.
• ABOVE ALL KEEP YOURSELF SAFE. Use axle stands before getting under the car, and make sure that you use eye protection wherever possible. It's so often overlooked. Sitting with a mate at hospital whilst he had a small piece of grit removed from his eye was not a fun experience for either of us.
• Start a rebuild thread on here.
• And have fun!

The suspension overhaul is a must.. the one in the car as far as I know are the original ( cones/shocks/knuckle joints etc) that came with the car as well as all the geometry bits. The lady I bought it from was the second owner since 2003 and she has never changed nothing of it, just basic maintenance things (breaks/oil/coolant/break fluid) to get the car running.

Break wise the car had new pad and shoes and break fluid.

Tyres will be replace shortly as I want to refurbish the alloys as the previous owner’s dogs had been peeing on them and paint are flaking off but at least are no dents on them. But not sure if I will stick to the 145/70 r12 or go for the 165/60 r12. Can you guys give me your opinion on this?

The engine will have to be removed from the car and do a rebuild and paint job too so yes I will give the engine/engine bay a clean because I don’t know when that is gonna happen.

I’ve got some specific tools like the rubber cone compresor and ball joint and cv joint removal tools as well as other bits but I will definitely will look for some more specific ones. Thanks for that!

I’m no an expert but over the years I had loads of experience working in this car in particular so I can do quite a lot of things and I’m not afraid to learn but I know my limits so I will outsource any jobs that I feel I can’t do myself.

[John/Dominguez]

aside from the above which is pretty comprehensive and all good points, I would say start by making a list of what actually needs doing, particularly bodywork which is possibly the most time consuming expensive bit which requires the most amount of stripping down for access and so on

go all over it with a screwdriver gently poking at all the edges and corners, pull up carpets inside, in the boot, all round the engine bay, A panels, in the arches, the floorpan, inner and outer sills, all the seams, etc. just get a good idea of all the repairs required and make a plan, compare that to your budget and work out how to go forwards with it

take a comprehensive set of pictures of all the issues, post them up here and get opinions, that will help with forward planning

My view on it is, might as well deal with any inevitable rusty areas first and get to the point where you have a solid shell to build up from, do it right do it once

at the very least, make sure you don't have any dangerous rust, close to subframe fixing points, suspension fixing points, anything that might mean something can fall off

last thing you want is to get halfway through and realise it's just too much to take on, and get disheartened with it or have to sell it off as a half finished project

Thanks for your reply!

I’m working on a list of everything that I can see that needs doing.

I will post in a minute all the bits that I can spot bodywork wise.

Do you know any other way to find rust with out poking the panels? I just ask because are not in my plans to do any bodywork until A. I’ve got a comfortable budget for it and B. I get myself a beater as a daily to be able to stop the mini and do the proper job as you said do it right do it once. But as I will detail in a later post the shell is solid and is structurally safe.

[John/Dominguez]

I would drive it and fix things as they occurr.This is not the modern approach it seems.Steve..

As for now that’s was the plan but obviously I see her seating in the garage and I really want to do some work on it.. I know I can’t do nothing mayor right now but still want to get my hands dirty.

[John/Dominguez]

Beware of removing the rear subframe just for a quick rebuild/maintenance unless you are ready for what may beome a bigger job if you find rusted/seized bolts that shear off in the process. Such things can be fixed as part of a restoration or rebuild if you are prepared in advance but often involve more time off road which might not be ideal if the Mini is your daily driver.

Also if you find any original rubber bushes that still are in good condition they are often best cleaned & retained as modern rubber replacements are often of poor quality and crack/perish within a year or so even with little use. Minispares do their best to offer rubber parts of good quality to original Rover standards and at least they normally indicate when they have better quality rubber components available for a small extra cost.

I was aware that the rear subframe was a bit of a pain to remove and put back on the car but You might be right and if that happen I’ll be stuck for a few days. Probably is a job to do once I take some time off work!! Tanks for your advise!

Edited by John/Dominguez, 27 October 2024 - 03:25 AM.

[John/Dominguez]

Right I will first give you some info about the car. I bought it from a lady that was living in England when she got it, that was back in 2003 and drove here to Spain in 2005 where te car was sat in a quiet dry car park until 2018 when she move back for good to Barcelona and put it back on the road. Also the car had anti rust treatment on the underside but I couldn’t tell you when .

In terms of bodywork is not the worst I have seen (this is my 4th mini that I have owned) I will start front to back.

- The front is pretty clean, under the lights isn’t a single sing of rust and looking from the inside it seams all original panels and where the lip bumper bolts on is completely solid and has a minor superficial rust although the bottom section it has no much rust is a bit tatty with a few bumps on it.

- Bonet has one crack on each side where the hinges bolt and a small dent.

- Wings are again pretty solid with not rust at all.

- The engine bay doesn’t seem to have rust at all.

- The windscreen corners is the first place where rust first appear in just one of the corners. Is a very small bubble (about 10 by 5 mm) the rest of it has not rust at all, I’ve even looked
thoroughly around the rubber seal and nothing either. As well as the wings are the original panel I can tell because you can see the factory gap between the panels

- A panels has rust on the very bottom an I’m not sure if they had been replaced or not (I will post pictures of everything to get your opinion though) but they may had as the top section doesn’t look very accurate.

- Driver side door are mint but passenger had been reskinned very poorly imo..

- Worst bit are both front floor panels that they need replacing as they have a small hole in each side where it meets with the inner wing and both floor panels have been pushed in with a jack surely. And both front parts of the outer sills also had been pushed in.

- The door step are solid in both sides and the lip where it meets with the outer sill has a few 8 by 8 mm rust bits that just affect the top of the lip.

- The the back part of the floor panels are in mint condition inside and outside as well as the rear pockets and the heel board have a 2 by 2 centimeter rust that will need to be replaced or patch on the driver side the middle bit and the other side are solid.

- The rear quarters seems to be in very good condition but just as far as I can see though. The bottom of the rear side windows where it rubs with the window it has lost a bit of paint but it doesn’t seem to be more than minimal superficial rust.

- The back of the car are in great shape. The inner wheel arches are both solid along with the boot floor that has not rust at all and where the rear subframe bolts are rust free too. Battery box has no rust either and the back panel and boot door are in very good shape as well with no rust at all. I had to change the rear rubber sill and the bodywork all around was excellent too. The rear subframe are in what it seems a very good shape the rust proofing it did star flaking and you can see the original subframe paint.

- And last is the roof that is in good shape it has superficial rust on the gutters but are very very solid and the front left seam strip looks like it has been joined some how to the bodywork but doesn’t seem right.

As I mentioned before this is what I can see but it might be loads of rust hidden under body filler… that’s why I would consider in the future strip the car to a bare shell and sand blasted to be safe. What do you guys think about this?

Edited by John/Dominguez, 27 October 2024 - 03:43 AM.

[mab01uk]

I would not go to the expense of sand blasting the car looking for rust based on what you have said, as most areas sound in good condition for a 1991 Mini, an easy way to detect any body filler under the paint is to run a magnet over a panel, if it sticks well it is metal/steel below the paint.

Edited by mab01uk, 28 October 2024 - 11:04 PM.