10 replies to this topic

[maccers]

Hi all, I've only got the roll pin to remove before engine out (and the 4 mount bolts). 

 

I have read a few posts on here about the roll pin, and using a drill bit or a punch of the correct size - I'm getting loads of bits from MiniSpares so will get the correct punch. 

 

And put into reverse.

 

Question is, which roll pin on the collar needs to come out, the one closer to the gearbox or the one towards the rear of the car?  Or both? And if both is there an obvious order?

 

Cheers!

 

[4130]

Both, as far as I know. I had quite a fight over the course of a couple of days getting mine out. I opted to replace it with this, so I never need to deal with that roll pin ever again: https://www.minispar...lector-coupling

[nicklouse]

Gearbox side.

[babsbrown]

I'm sure I just removed the one closest to the front of the car.
Also don't forget the bolt holding the linkeage together too

[Chris1275gt]

The minispares quick release coupler mentioned above is a great bit of kit it also means when you put the pin back in you’re not deforming the new seal by beating the pin back in.

[MatthewsDad]

Try putting into reverse gear before attacking the pin. It can help to rotate the pin to a more accessible angle.

[maccers]

Thanks all! That updated quick release looks handy. As long as it does not quick release by itself..! 

[Rubbershorts]

The minispares quick release coupler mentioned above is a great bit of kit it also means when you put the pin back in you’re not deforming the new seal by beating the pin back in.

And, if like me you're always forgetting things, it pops straight back off so you can rectify your stupidity easily. Daz.

[Designer]

Hi,

 

I have the quick release on the Moop but one word of caution. It is very easy to catch the spring claws and pull them out of their set position, ie open them up. Once this happens it is a case of getting a new one has the retaining spring force is lost and the pin will just drop out.

I would also mention a possible problem if you are replacing the ribbed rubber boot part number DAM3022. In the past I got a new one from Minispares and having put everything back together and took Moop for a test drive I had a problem.

She would slip out of 2nd, 4th and reverse. I eventually discovered that the new DAM3022 was not to original spec. The rubber was harder (therefore harder to compress) and the boot was about 2 or 3mm longer. This meant that when selecting those gears the shaft was prevented from moving far enough into the gear box to fully select the appropriate gear. I just reverted back to the old boot as it wasn't in too bad a condition, I believe some people have over come the problem by shortening the boot to the correct length even though the rubber is harder so harder to compress.

 

Paddy

[maccers]

Thanks for that. I was looking at this kit for the oil seal:

 

https://www.minispar...l-leak-seal-kit

[Designer]

Hi maccers,

 

Hopefully the gaiter in that kit should be ok. It was the gaiters that were sold separately that seemed to be the ones that were out of spec.

Before chucking the old one put both on a flat surface and check the height comparison, and also the compression characteristics of both.

 

Paddy