6 replies to this topic

[mvahora]

So prior to removal of the upper arms and cones I noticed the arms were drooped sitting on the rebound buffer plate with all the rubber worn away. 

 

Took it all out. Cleaned, painted and refurbed everything. The upper arm pins, bearings and washers on both sides looked okay so decided to reuse.  Cones still look good at about 84mm so decided to reuse those.

 

- Got both cones in and arms in

- Front drivers side new rebound buffer I managed to get in. The other side I cant get it in. The upper arm simply wont lift that much for me to get it in. any ideas?

- Once the arms are in are they supposed to fully droop onto the rebound buffer? This is what was happening before i removed everything and its still doing it now that i put it all back in. 

- With the arms in and bolts tightened I cant move them up or down at all. they are literally locked in place. 

- For reference I'm doing this on jack stands all round the car

 

 

Is this normal? am i missing something or will everything loosen up and be normal once I get the ball joints, track rod ends, dampers back on?

 

I don't want to move forward with the project only to rip everything out again. 

Edited by mvahora, 01 March 2025 - 11:02 AM.

[Steam]

The car needs to be on the ground to get a true idea of the gap re rebound rubbers. With the wheels hanging it will be on the rubbers. The workshop manual suggests removing the rubbers and fitting packing pieces BEFORE jacking vehicle to avoid damaging the rebound rubbers.

Edited by Steam, 01 March 2025 - 06:47 AM.

[mvahora]

The car needs to be on the ground to get a true idea of the gap re rebound rubbers. With the wheels hanging it will be on the rubbers. The workshop manual suggests removing the rubbers and fitting packing pieces BEFORE jacking vehicle to avoid damaging the rebound rubbers.

 

thanks a ton. I thought something wasn't right. Which workshop manual do you have? is it the rover one?

Edited by mvahora, 01 March 2025 - 11:36 AM.

[Rubbershorts]

The car needs to be on the ground to get a true idea of the gap re rebound rubbers. With the wheels hanging it will be on the rubbers. The workshop manual suggests removing the rubbers and fitting packing pieces BEFORE jacking vehicle to avoid damaging the rebound rubbers.

thanks a ton. I thought something wasn't right. Which workshop manual do you have? is it the rover one?

They should still move freely though when all bolts are tightened. This is before the shock is attached of course. Daz.

Edited by Rubbershorts, 01 March 2025 - 06:33 PM.

[Steam]

The car needs to be on the ground to get a true idea of the gap re rebound rubbers. With the wheels hanging it will be on the rubbers. The workshop manual suggests removing the rubbers and fitting packing pieces BEFORE jacking vehicle to avoid damaging the rebound rubbers.

thanks a ton. I thought something wasn't right. Which workshop manual do you have? is it the rover one?

They should still move freely though when all bolts are tightened. This is before the shock is attached of course. Daz.

Yes they should but it is reletive to the ability to overcome the force of the cone, not always easy when car is on jacks.

[mvahora]

Okay so i took it off the jack stands and the car is now supported on the body. (Rear subframe still on jacks)

It made no difference obviously as there is no weight of the car on the arms. The top arms on both sides are still fully drooped sitting on the metal. The arms wont move upwards at all. Theres simply no space for the arm to move up as the trumpet is right up against the cone whilst the knuckle is in its place in the top arm. I assume if i put the compressor tool back in and compress the cone heavily it would allow the arm to move up.

Is it normal for the arms to be at full droop when jacked up and the ball joint, track rod end and damper joints have been removed? Also is it normal at this stage for there to be no upwards or downwards movement of the arms?

Will the weight of the car (once on its 4 wheels) on the arms compress the cones enough to get the arms up away from the rebound droop stops?

Edited by mvahora, 02 March 2025 - 01:35 AM.

[Steam]

Yes it should, unless of course something is not seated properly, cone, trumpet ball joint etc or you have a bent/misaligned subframe or arms. Also new cones will be alot taller than old ones.