16 replies to this topic

[oldwheels]

Alternative jacking points.

 

I realise the normal way to jack up a mini is to place a trolley jack under a suitable part of the subframe but there comes a time in life when one does not want to crawl on the floor to get the wheels of the ground. I am sure I am not alone in the years catching up so any advice will be appreciated as I wish to carry on with my car for as many years as I can.

 

My thoughts are

 

Front subframe perhaps along the lines of the wooden block idea

 

Rear subframe Is it possible to strengthen the rear cross section to take a jack

 

The side, Is it possible to redesign the original side jacking point to accept a trolley jack or to fabricate new jacking points

 

All advice and ideas will be appreciated

Thanks

 

 

[Ethel]

I think you'd be ok under the seat mounting cross member, especially if you made  a ply load spreader.

 

The rear subframe rail bends really easily, but might be ok if you welded on a brace to link the open edges - or something that could be bolted in to one of the holes for the hydrolastic plumbing. Both wheels would lift from either side if the car's empty.

[stuart bowes]

if you're using a block of wood why not just place that at the front or rear edge of the floorpan, just where the seam is which makes it a relatively strong point

 

it's still a bit of rolling around on the floor either way as far as I can see because you want to eyeball it and make sure you're in the right place

 

the sides of the floorpan as you know are sort of angled so you do need to get the jack under far enough to be on a flat, therefore the low viewing angle required, I'm not sure there's much that can be done about that unfortunately 

 

(edit) or what Ethel said, lift the whole side at once by jacking more centrally

Edited by stuart bowes, 11 March 2025 - 01:11 PM.

[68+86auto]

No matter what you do, you'll need to get on the floor to check positioning and place stands. Unless of course you buy a four post hoist.

[imack]

I made this from a 4x4 fence post.
I think I got drawings for it from the mk1 forum.
I did also have a length of timber with a slot cut along it's length so it hooked onto the rear subframe cross member, but it was no use once I changed to a centre exit exhaust.

Attached Files

•  20250311_162722_resized.jpg   41.44K   10 downloads
•  20250311_162852_resized.jpg   36.32K   11 downloads

Edited by imack, 11 March 2025 - 04:38 PM.

[Jakkie]

Good Evening. I made this attachment to fit into the Square hole and fit it on a Scissors jack.

How do I add a photo to this comment please.

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

if you're using a block of wood why not just place that at the front or rear edge of the floorpan, just where the seam is which makes it a relatively strong point

 

it's still a bit of rolling around on the floor either way as far as I can see because you want to eyeball it and make sure you're in the right place

 

the sides of the floorpan as you know are sort of angled so you do need to get the jack under far enough to be on a flat, therefore the low viewing angle required, I'm not sure there's much that can be done about that unfortunately 

 

(edit) or what Ethel said, lift the whole side at once by jacking more centrally

 

Edited by Jakkie, 13 March 2025 - 07:34 PM.

[sonscar]

I'm also using a block of wood for both front and rear,take off jack saddle and bolt used as a pin locates the wood.Steve..

[Java_Green]

I have made wood pieces that carefully follows the front transversal beam of the front subframe as well as one that follows the rear transversal beam of the rear subframe. The front one follow the angled bottom with a lip around the edge. The rear one is made with a cut out. Both are easily positioned and can only be so one way.

[imack]

This is part of the piece of timber (now repurposed as a drill stand) I used to use for jacking the rear of the car. The groove allowed it to hook over the inside of the rear subframe cross member. I worked brilliantly, but that was before replacing the side exit exhaust with a centre exit and fitting a rear Anti-roll bar.

Attached Files

•  20250312_081410.jpg   53.94K   3 downloads

[oldwheels]

Thanks very much for all the advice given, maybe I was over complicating the problem. Seems the blocks of wood are the way to go. any more pics or advice appreciated. thanks a lot

[Jakkie]

I have made this attachment to fit into the hole and put on a Sissors Jack.  Mini Jack Attachment.jpg   22.22K   2 downloads

[imack]

Here's the dimensions for the block of wood for jacking the front.

Attached Files

•  Screenshot_20250314_051243_Samsung Internet.jpg   45.47K   9 downloads

Edited by imack, 14 March 2025 - 05:49 AM.

[Landie]

I have made this attachment to fit into the hole and put on a Sissors Jack. Mini Jack Attachment.jpg

I think I will make something like this to keep in the car to put on my scissor jack in case I have to use the spare tyre. I will modify it slightly so it doesn't fall off the jack, it's still a good idea and a place to start.

 

Thanks.

jakkie

[floormanager]

Made the wooden lift, it's great

[imack]

Made the wooden lift, it's great

Yeah, it's definitely worth the effort to make it.
The rear one I made worked well too. I really need to try and make something that will bridge the centre exit tail pipe and fit around the anti roll bar. Maybe a job for the weekend.