20 replies to this topic

[brivinci]

So, looking more into this I found an interesting potential solution to anyone simply looking to do away with the glass fuses in the stock location.

https://www.torquere...product-page/mg

 

[Ethel]

Is that price post tariffs 

 

The main fuse box has the awkward 17 amp fuse which doesn't have a good match in a blade fuse.

[brivinci]

Lets pretend that I am not in the US having to live through all this...I know that is what I am trying to do!! Ugh.

So, on my diagram, the 4 fuses in the main block are 35a, 25a, 25a, 15a (top to bottom) in glass fuses. Aside from the 7.5a blade fuse, there are no perfect matches.

No, several of the terminals on the original box are doubled up. They have 2 wires coming in, and 2 going out. If you were to split them up, so that you now needed an 8 fuse box, would the amps still be the same? 

[madalicesdad]

My SPi looks a bit like this. I've had the car from new. The original glass fuses in plastic cases lasted about 6 years before they corrided so I fitted something like what you have.

[brivinci]

Because of this thread, I went back over and started digging into my wiring do see what I wanted to do, if anything. I am really not a fan of the in-line fuses behind the filter on the firewall. I actually started tracing (or trying to trace) all the wires. I have thought of not having any double up on a fuse. If you look at the original 4-fuse box, most have 2 wires in and 2 wires out. If you were to separate those to one fuse per, would you still keep the same fuse value? 

I assume that is what the 95+ cars did when they swapped to the single, blade fuse box, given the amount of fuses used. That is just a guess. I will know a LOT more about this as I am going to be shell swapping a 95 Si likely towards the end of the season. Car was rolled and shell was already a rusty mess:-/

[68+86auto]

Because of this thread, I went back over and started digging into my wiring do see what I wanted to do, if anything. I am really not a fan of the in-line fuses behind the filter on the firewall. I actually started tracing (or trying to trace) all the wires. I have thought of not having any double up on a fuse. If you look at the original 4-fuse box, most have 2 wires in and 2 wires out. If you were to separate those to one fuse per, would you still keep the same fuse value?

I assume that is what the 95+ cars did when they swapped to the single, blade fuse box, given the amount of fuses used. That is just a guess. I will know a LOT more about this as I am going to be shell swapping a 95 Si likely towards the end of the season. Car was rolled and shell was already a rusty mess:-/

The fuse is there to protect the lowest current rating wire on the output side. That means that if you split it to two fuses, the rating should stay the same. Depending on the loads, you may be able to lower it but there's not much point.


If one is looking for a good alternative fuse box, have a look at MTA, Bussman or Littelfuse. They all have good options which will be better than the typical garbage from mini suppliers and auto parts stores. If it uses unsealed terminals, two wires could go to one terminal. If it uses sealed terminals, you'll need to splice it elsewhere or lose the sealing ability.

This is the fuse box I used to rectify the dealer's dodgy AC wiring. It could be fitted with nine fuses instead of the combination I chose.  IMG_20250604_090106_(2040_x_1530_pixel).jpg   83.35K   0 downloads
 IMG_20250604_090030_(2040_x_1530_pixel).jpg   72.63K   0 downloads
(Pictures are before it was wired up which is why there's a mess).

Edited by 68+86auto, 03 June 2025 - 11:03 PM.