5 replies to this topic

[Frostywood]

I’ve recently started my mpi after rebuilding into a new shell and rebuilding the engine so it hasn’t run for a couple of years. After some confusion with the ht leads it actually started up fairly well but there’s a reasonable amount of smoke coming from the engine when running and it seems to get pretty hot quite quick so I’ve not let it run too long. Im worried the oil or coolant aren’t being circulated. Is there a way to check? The oil pressure light goes out and the water pump pulley is spinning and the temp gauge doesn’t fly up to red so I assume they’re both fine and it’s just oil, paint burning off. Does that sound likely? I’ve attached a video https://imgur.com/a/RJYLYh4 if that helps

Only slightly related so might be best to have its own post but I also have an issue when I put the lights on the left hand head and tail lights are dim and the indicators are on (front and back, not side). I think I’ve managed to short the red with black wire for the head/tail lights with the red with green wire for the indicators somewhere from testing for continuity on a multimeter. I’d rather not have to take the fuel tank back out to check the wiring to the light, can anyone think what else it could be?

[coopertaz]

looks like oil burning off the manifold, for oil flow remove plugs and rocker cover and crank engine after light goes out you will see oil dripping from rocker shaft (good idea to do this on a rebuild BEFORE intitial start) this will confirm flow but only relying on light for pressure unless you have a guage. For coolant you should feel pipes warming up also run with heater in hot position to help bleeding.

For lights seems to be missing an earth is there a ring crimp floating aroung anywhere not connected, there used to be one at rear lighs

[brivinci]

I can't see video but if the smoke is not coming out of your exhaust or intake, then it's usually oil burning off exhaust manifold. I would check to make sure the rocker cover gasket is on properly and tightened down to ensure no additional oil is leaking and getting on the manifold.

For the cooling, are you sure you have the system installed correctly? Are the fans coming on? You could have air trapped in the system and not letting the coolant flow. If you start the engine with the coolant cap off and squeeze some of the pipes, you might be able to "burp" it. Without the cap on, no pressure builds up so it should not come shooting out like if you try and remove the cap while hot. Open the heater valve as well to ensure water is getting all the way through the system. You can then check to see if the heat works as well. I use this kit:
https://www.amazon.c...1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

to both fill and bleed the cooling system, all without spilling. Very helpful.

On the rebuild, did you change the cam or followers? It is absolutely crucial that these bed in properly. Before starting, they should be coated in a special oil, the motor should be tested for oil pressure, fuel, start and be ready to fire up asap. Then run at over 2k RPMs to bed it in. 
If you hadn't changed anything, it is always best to remove all the plugs, pull the fuel pump fuse, open throttle, and crank the motor over until you see the oil pressure light go out/climb on the gauge. This ensures that the motor has oil flowing through it prior to starting.

[DeadSquare]

How many volts are there, between the headlamp socket and earth ?

[Frostywood]

Thanks for the advice I’ll try a few of those to check I’ve got oil and coolant flowing. But I’m a bit happier it’s just things burning off from assembly

For the lights I think I’ve narrowed it down to the earth point under the expansion tank as it seems to affect everything off that (wipers, left indicators, left headlight).

if I put the bulb in, turn it on then measure from the bolt on that earth point to the earth terminal on the bulb I get ~6v so I assume it’s just not earthing properly and it’s going to anything connected to that point. Although thinking about it I don’t know why they would turn on if it’s only going to the Earth side of them, none of the switches to turn them on would be on. Annoyingly I think I’ll probably have to take the tank out to get at the Earth point

[Frostywood]

I’ve siphoned out some of the coolant and taken the expansion tank out so I can get to that Earth point I’ve taken it out and tested from the pins to the eyelet but no continuity. If I manually touch all the spade connectors to a bolt in the mounting hole then everything comes on that should. I’ve sanded the pins so that I get a signal between them and the eyelet but still get funky issues when I plug it all back in so I assume the issue is now with the corroded spade connectors now because if I jiggle things about then different lights come one and the wiper motor whirs.

Long way of saying is there anything I can potentially do to save having to recrimp all 6 connectors?